Phil Siddall

The block is not original to the car- did they change over the 1500 production run? I don't want to get a new pump some time and find it doesn't fit. I'll probably get an in-line filter.

No obvious signs of a filter... but looks like I dropped a nice stainless bolt into the battery box!

Late pumps do not seem to have easily removable filter tops like the early ones- do they still have a filter?

According to Haynes, there should be an in-line filter in the boot for my March 1980 Spitfire 1500. No sign, and I can't find one anywhere else. Car is very original, 32,000 miles, and has not been messed around. Should there be a filter?

It was from Ivor Searle, via the Club, but it was fitted nearly eight years ago. I have just checked-the car has in fact done 2,496 miles since, and has not yet been off the island. I do not trust it! The 2014 mileage reading was a genuine 29,168; it now reads 31,664. I was worried about the original engine, as although it was low mileage, it had a bit of a rattle when first starting, until the oil pressure came up. The replacement engine is, if anything, even more rattly. Should have kept the original engine! ETA: having had a think about it, I have been assuming that the machined front faces of the bearing housing and the bearing cap should be in the same plane. Having had a further close look at the Haynes manual, it appears that they are not, after all. Could someone confirm if this is correct, please- I'd like to get it back together again! Haynes also had me puzzled, saying the steering rack had to be unbolted before you could get the crank pulley off. It doesn't. Phil

Got the front crankshaft pulley bolt off at last- impact wrenches are magic! Had to buy an electric one though- the few garages here on Mull only have compressed air ones. The timing chain is about on the limit for wear, and the end of the tensioning spring has made quite a worn ridge in the timing cover, and is sticking.- I will have to get the Dremel out. More worrying is the front main bearing area- has the cap been fitted wrong way round? the front faces do not line up by about 2mm. Ideas, please! All not what I would expect from a rebuilt engine from the club, that has now done just over 2,000 miles. It was delivered with a blowing head gasket, and an incorrect and loose sump plug. It turned out to have a solid copper gasket, having been bored out to + .060", rather than the recommended +030" limit. Had to wait two months for the head to be skimmed, and a replacement copper gasket to arrive from the US. Now has a slight oil leak from the gasket. Not a happy bunny.

The jerky transmission turned out to be over-advanced ignition after I fitted the electronic ignition, easily sorted. Still got the rattly zizz noise from the front of the engine, which I suspect is a worn timing chain. Now got all the necessary bits, but can't get the bolt undone on the crank pulley. Got a 46 mm 3/4" drive socket, and a dirty great torque wrench, but 220 lb/ft will not shift it. Had the car in top, with the brakes on full; they were just beginning to slip, in spite of my pal using as much force as he could on the pedal. Also tried resting the tommy bar on the chassis and giving the starter a nudge; still no go. The bolt looks unlike those in the Haynes manual, as rather than being a plain hexagon it has a slot looking a bit like it is for a starting handle. I presume it is not LH thread.... Still got problems with a sticking float in the front carb too, in spite of fitting new 'stay up' floats and a needle/jet assembly. New rubber fuel pipes too. Any ideas what to try next? Not many Triumph specialists in Tobermory!

Accelerating hard in the gears, and on top, on full throttle there is a harsh grinding sound with a bit of a rattle thrown in. It is worse at about 3,000 revs. lift off a bit, it is less. On the over run, the transmission gets very jerky below 2,000 revs- the gear lever twitches, and there are clunks from the transmission. The front engine bearers look fine; the UJ's seem OK. The engine ang gearbox are both recon units, with less than 2,000 miles use. On the over run, it is almost as if the engine is cutting out briefly, but a change to electronic ignition and a new coil have made no difference, so I am doubtful if this is the cause. Anyone had something similar, or know a likely cause please?

Front engine bearers look fine- haven't had it on the ramps yet to look underneath though. I am still thinking of the drive train somewhere- if it isn't the diff, could it be the gearbox? definitely a sort of harsh grindy rattly noise on full throttle The jerkiness on the over-run below 2,000 revs is pronounced- the gear lever twitches and there are clunks. There could be a slight chance that this last is engine related, as though it was cutting out and picking up again. A change from points to electronic ignition, plus a new coil, seem to have made no difference, so I am doubtful about that. I'll post on the gearbox section, to see if anyone has had this problem..

Hadn't thought of the engine/gearbox mounts- will have a look tomorrow. Thanks.

Accelerating hard, particularly around 3,000 rpm, there is a sort of grinding noise and vibration I can feel through the gear lever. On the over- run, the transmission gets very jerky under 2,000 revs. Has had a recent recon engine and gearbox; UJ's seem ok so I presume diff problems. Advice to confirm likely cause, please!

I see Rimmers now list stay-up floats for HS4 carbs- have ordered; hope this is the answer.

Not changed the pump. I'll take the tops of the float chambers tomorrow, and investigate- i have a hunch that the floats drop too far and stick. They didn't when I first started the car after nearly a year out of action. A new float did not seem to cure it previously.

My Spit 1500 front carb often flooded on tick-over, in spite of replacing the needle/jet assembly and the float. Just got it started after a lengthy lay off, and now both carbs are flooding. Is the fuel pump delivering at too high a pressure. or is the latest petrol affecting the needle seating or something? Help, please!

The front carb on my Spit 1500 floods from time to time. I have replaced the float and the needle valve assembly with brand new items, but it has not cured it. Any bright ideas?