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ahebron

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Posts posted by ahebron

  1. Youtube has an amazing amount of content on MIG welders that can watch and learn from.
    My personal favourite is

    https://www.youtube.com/@MakeItKustom

    But as everyone has said already practice practice and more practice.
    And spend the money to buy a bloody good welding helmet, if you cannot see what you are welding or your welds then you dont have any chance of doing a half decent job. That was my best investment in my welding hobby.
    Then buy a TIG welder and start all over again.
    Funnily enough the one welding I could never accomplish was arc welding.
    As a kid at college I loved gas welding and brazing.

    • Like 1
  2. I was recently put on to a great weather app for my phone called Zoom Earth by a friend who was sailing a yacht down from McKay to Brisbane, they used it to check on weather as they made their way down the coast
    Using the app to look at Australia I see bush fires all over Queensland and heavy rain but never in the same place, often the gap is so small you could see one from the other.
    The flora and fauna of Australia are not to be taken trivially.

     

  3. 3 hours ago, piran said:

    Have ordered some Plus Gas and a blowtorch - will pick them up tomorrow and see where we go from there

    Of the single bottle range the yellow gas (mapp replacement) bottles give the greatest heat, I have brazed with mine.

  4. 11 hours ago, Graham C said:

    Just a consideration of jacking up on the body mounting bolt, the front ones are on the front arms. I have found that over the years these buckle as at this point the arm is just a single channel. I prefer to lift my cars where these arms join the the main centre rails.

    The scissor lift I have allows me to place my lifting pads under these points.

     

    7 hours ago, PeteH said:

    A primary consideration in my view, would be the ability to lock them mechanically once elevated? Vehicle lifts have (or should have) latches.

    The scissor lift in the first post has a ratchet lock which allows the hoist to raise freely but will not lower without the pawl being released.

    11 hours ago, Graham C said:

    I have wondered by these lifts but the cost seem high for the expected usage but let's us know how they perform when you use one.

    The cost of making my life easier, less back pain (working inside the car is a dream when the car is elevated), less hassle working under the car made purchasing the scissor lift a no brainer. It will be used on other cars and can be used as a motorbike platform with a decent sheet of ply or even a work table.
    And when I get fed up with mechanical toys I should be able to sell it on relatively easily.

    • Like 1
  5. Hi Martin

    I have a very similar version of the scissor lift you are referring to.
    It was the first one from the company that sold them here in NZ
    It is used to lift my Vitesse to a comfortable working height, as it lifts 1 metre it gives decent clearance underneath.
    I fitted castors to the opposite side of the roller wheels so I can slide it about my garage but not when it is elevated.
    I also fitted a quick release to the hydraulic line so I can remove the pump unit when the car is at height.
    One thing that caught me out the first time I used it was the width of it.
    If used as they show down the line of the car our small chassis Triumphs will not allow the scissor lift between the wheels.
    On seeing that I thought I had made an expensive mistake.
    But a minute or two of head scratching and I realised I could use it across the car, from one side.
    This also meant I could store the car hard against the side of the garage, it is on wheel jacks, and then pull it out when I want work on it and as I keep the scissor lift stored under the car I pull that out as well (remember the added castors).
    Working under the Vitesse I can access the suspension, engine, gearbox, diff and rear axles. I appreciate that the GT6 is a bit shorter wheelbase so it might differ for you.IMG_5653.thumb.jpg.e2940e25e26d4f8039d5fe7e017181ea.jpg

    • Like 2
  6. We do use Paypal here but it has the usual issues and I have never found businesses here that use it.
    Ping is what Trademe use and it has no fees for the buyer but i am unaware of being able to use it outside Trademe.
    If you buy from Hawkswood through Trademe then you will have the option of Ping.
    I tried the Hawkswood AU site and it only gives me the credit/debit card option.
    What I use for my Paypal account is a Debit card that I transfer money into when I purchase something.
    I generally leave it with a $10 float in the acct.
    I have also used it for purchasing from sites I am not to sure about, if they roll me then all they get is what is in the debit card acct

  7. NZ Post have set up drop boxes in the USA and UK.
    UK is in Southall which funnily enough is where my Mum is from and USA is in Portland Oregon.
    If shipping is too expensive from the vendor or they do not ship overseas I will use the appropriate branch. They also supply a phone number for sellers that need a phone number when you fill in the info.
    I pay NZ Post here in NZ and they look after everything inc taxes till it arrives at my house.

    If you local Post supplier doesn't offer this In believe other companies do.
     

    Peter Truman is the NZ supplier Hawkswood Classic Carparts? I believe they have an Australian setup as well.
    I think it is run out of NZ but setup for Australian business with a Melbourne phone number.

  8. LEDs do fade over time.
    Also chips can die which leaves a dark spot in the lamp.
    But the biggest problem is with the drivers failing and the lights being thrown out as they are often sealed units.
    Our bathroom mirror with inbuilt heater and light stopped working recently and I could not buy a driver locally that was small enough to fit so ended up getting two from Aliexpress.
    Fluorescent lights being a discharge type lamp do not like cold weather and can take a long time to reach correct operating colour temperature, manufacturers info would state 15 minutes till full operating temp reached.

     

  9. 1.5mm flex is more than enough for that motor, you could even go 1mm.
    The gland will be the correct one for the O/D of the cable and the NVR box, I would use on that compresses the cable when tightened up something like this

    PRO ELEC PELB0264

    The terminals of the NVR will dictate how you connect the wiring to it but please use the correct crimping tool if you need to crimp any connectors and give them a good quick tug to make sure they are secure to the cable,

    • Like 1
  10. As has been mentioned modern vehicles need a certain amount of resistance for the electronics to liven the circuit on even though you have operated the switch. Some cars even need the software to be activated if you decide to fit a towbar and this is often only available from the dealer due to vehicle stability control and braking changing when a trailer is used. The days of DIY trailer plugs are rapidly disappearing. 
    My VW Amarok will not activate hill descent control when I have the trailer plugged in, so off road with the trailer  I will unplug the lights if needed. Obviously, when towing a trailer you do not want it to try to overtake while hooked up so this is then dependent on the skill of the driver to keep the trailer behind the vehicle when using hill descent control. It is just a loop in the socket between 2 pins but I believe a deliberate action of unplugging is safer than permanently bridging it out.
    I fitted a LED reversing bulb and needed to add a power resistor to the circuit to stop the bulb fail warning. 
    You can buy resistor boxes to go between the trailer plug and car socket.

    Peter Truman did you use identical bulbs in your daughters Spitfire and your Vitesse?

    LEDs also operate faster than filament bulbs and in brake lights the fractions of a second can mean the difference between a following car hitting you or not, yes it sounds crazy but have a read here.
    https://chemistry.beloit.edu/BlueLight/pages/hp/an1155-3.pdf
    https://arxiv.org/pdf/2010.10584.pdf

     

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