ahebron
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Posts posted by ahebron
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Can someone please tell me the manifold mounting spacings for the Stromberg 150CD.
Thanks
Adrian
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On 9/22/2017 at 2:42 AM, Badwolf said:
No, not done anything exterior yet. I have had bad results from domestic 240v led lighting. Fitted 100s of leds in various places over the past 5 years, many have failed before the rated 25,000 hours expected use. Don't trust them at the moment for exterior use on a car. Inside not as important, outside possibly very dangerous. I feel that leds have been forced on us before the technology is proved
Hi Badwolf
You will probably find the LED itself is ok but the electronics built into it have failed.
I know it doesnt help but it is often the case.
A lot of the cheaper domestic mains voltage LED replacements have bad light frequency and colour rendition (green or magenta shift)
Adrian
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For future use a 50/50 mix of ATF and Acetone is far superior to spray can release agents. Have a google
Also an induction heater will heat it up nicely. I have and use one of these.
Adrian
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That reinforcing plate looks like a Vitesse/Herald body mount plate with the nut removed.
I could be wrong of course.
Adrian
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And oddly enough if you like unsprung weight you can fit certain Toyota Hilux calipers directly to type 16 mounts.
http://www.vtr.org/maintain/brake-conversion.shtml
Adrian
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Please do not use rivnuts for a seat.
A Pete said a bloody big washer is a lot better.
But dont put washers the same size on both sides of the floor, it acts like a hole punch over time.
Adrian
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I use my ultrasonic cleaner for spark plugs.
Just have to give them a squirt with a lube oil if not using them straightaway as they can corrode.
Adrian
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Last time I degassed a tank I ran a pipe from a running petrol engined car into the tank.
The exhaust gas nicely neutralises the fumes.
I recently had the drain cut off my tank by a local radiator shop. Makes removal so much easier.
Adrian
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Had no luck with that stuff on my Mk1 2500PI .
It came off in sheets.
The salesperson at the car body shop supplies told me if the moon is right and you hold tongue in the correct place then yes it will work beautifully.
Adrian
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yep, they are all the same between herald/vitesse
And Bond GT4
Adrian
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Hi Colin
I scrapped my underseal off using old wood chisels.
Then a knotted wheel on my angle grinder removed what was left followed by wiping with thinners.
This bit is very important, once you have the metal clean you have to scour it with 80 grit so the paint will bond.
I used 80 grit scouring pads like the ones used doing the dishes but from the paint shop.
Using the knotted wheel effectively polishes the metal after it has cleaned the underseal off so the scour abrades it again ready for the paint to stick.
The underseal on my car was a mix of old and new underseal.
Luckily I had a bit of practice scrapping underseal off my dads Lagonda Rapier a few months back so got to find the easiest way, funnily it was painted by the same person.,
You do end up with a lot of underseal flakes about the place and when using the knotted wheel make sure you are fully covered including a face shield as bits of wire fly about the place and I am still finding them everywhere.
Best of luck with you mission and remember to check the threads in the rear cross memebr and front outriggers before fitting the body.
Adrian
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Once again my Vitesse 6 has thrown a diversion in the way of its rebuild.
First it was underseal peeling from underside of floorpan which meant body off and all stripped back to bare metal, zinc phosphate primed, undersealed then top coat. All because the painter of the car didnt prep it properly. Body back on.
Go away with work
Back from work
Take rear tub off and top of chassis where spider rust under powder coating was stripped back to bare metal, zinc phosphate primer then top coat.
Body back on
Go away with work
Back from work
Start the final bolt down of body using solid stainless steel mounts I turned from 6mm plate and stainless steel washers I bought from Ebay UK and got sent out to me in NZ. Very hard to find SS washers with 40mm od 8mm id in NZ.
Finish off the bolting and leveling all door gaps looking superb.
Tightening up bolts on rear crossmember and they both stripped.
Pack up for the day and do some thinking.
I really dont want to take the body off again so picked up a Recoil (Helicoil like) set today so this weekend will fit these and hopefully these will the third and last problem.
Interesting to note that I originally had the body fitted with soft rubber mounts (supplied in a kit) and it had pronounced tub spread. I built an impressive hydraulic unit to pull the body back in in anticipation but when I fitted it with the SS mounts there is no spread? Might get to use it in my Mk2 convertible with a few tweaks. I dont know if the spread was to do with the rubber mounts or maybe the work I was doing to the tub with it inverted and me scrapping off underseal has sorted it.
To get the body correct I have been using air wedges to fine tune the gaps and lines.
Adrian
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I would also look at diff gearbox alignment and mounts.
Adrian
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Hi Paul
I seem to recall about 400lbs dry give or take something heavy.
This site seems to agree
http://t2000.kvaleberg.org/t_tech.html
Adrian
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I am doing all my body mounts with stainless steel discs I cut out and stainless steel washers.
To lift the body while packing I am using air wedges that I purchased of Ebay, easier on the body and chassis.
Google them
Adrian
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If it was an old Fiat or Lada I would have have leapt in and said ignition switch.
They are notorious for failing at most inappropriate times as all electrics are fed through them.
Adsrian
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Round and black are my two first considerations.
Dont dismiss the Chinese tyres, they are made with new moulds and balance well plus seem to do everything else demanded of a tyre these days and are a good price.
Adrian
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HI
Thanks all. Rear tub now lifted clear, (well by 4inches!). Just waiting for a couple of Buddies (Drinking Variety!) to give me a lift off so I can get at a few dodgy spots on both the Chassis and tub. Leaving the front (tub) in place for the time being, Storage space is now at a premium even in a double width garage!. Cheers.
Pete
There is never enough space in a garage when owning Triumphs.
Adrian
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Have you removed these
Two at the rear of the out riggers under the boot
Two on the diff hump
And the ones down the side plus the screws across the bulkhead joint.
Maybe a few welds and screws that previous owners have added.
And dont forget the handbrake cable.
Plus a few I might have forgotten
Adrian
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Hi
Can a kindly Vitesse 6 or Mk1 owner please post a photo of the interior roof lamp.
I am fitting a Herald roof to my 6 and as it is over 30 years since I took the car apart I need to see what the lamp looks like and where it goes.
Thanks
Adrian
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That is the number stamped on a NOS cylinder head being sold as for a Vitesse.
It looks to be a Mk1 of some sort.
Stamp is above front exhaust port
I cant find any reference to this number.
Can any one tell me what Triumph this is for.
Seller also has Standard 10 NOS head for sale and advises they have valves bearings and rings.
Thanks
Adrian
Stromberg 150CD
in Fuel System
Posted
Thanks for that Colin.
Adrian