ahebron
-
Posts
968 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
2
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Gallery
Downloads
Store
Events
Posts posted by ahebron
-
-
-
Got my door gaps sorted, both sides 5mm and antiburst latches are working lovely.
RH door was measure, measure,measure, cup of tea, drill, measure, measure cup of tea, drill. Very happy
-
41 minutes ago, johny said:
It's not much different on height but width yes. However the tube spacing is 1cm instead of 1/2" so there's 105 tubes instead of 90. Also the cooling fins are attached to the tubes better so the heat transfer is improved. Saying that a new standard rad can do the job but at almost 4 times the price!
Exactly!
And then try buy one in NZ and it would be more expensive!
-
Yes Mk4 rims.
I have a set of those for my Vitesse 6 though at present it is sitting on 4.5" Vitesse rims.
-
What I find hard to get my head around is that the Honda radiator is smaller in height and width yet is a better unit.
-
When setting up my Vitesse body I used air wedges like the ones for breaking in to cars. A lot nicer than using a wooden wedge and hammer and very easy to get exact spacing. But I have also solid mounted the body to the chassis using 6mm stainless spacers and stainless penny washers for level trimming.
-
Pipecleaners are a very versatile tool in my garage.
Often used instead of a small paint brush when painting holes drilled in bodywork. After it has been used just cut the used end off and you have a perfectly good shorter pipecleaner for future use. Same with getting grease and oil into small places. And you can clean pipes with them
-
I am assuming you have fitted Mk4 or 1500 Spitfire Rims otherwise Spitfire wheels should be the same as the Vitesse.
-
And not forgetting that there are now more convertibles than left the factory!
-
1
-
-
I bought it last year as my 2ft folder is a bit inconvenient to use sometimes and doesnt like bending that thickness of steel with the small folds.
Here is the webpage from the company I bought it from
https://www.machineryhouse.co.nz/V052
When I am in Auckland (650kms away) I always try and buy more tools from them.
Last one was the portable welding table which is a very handy bit of kit.
-
Back in the day Triumph could happily sell you a new diff!
And these days we put more power through 50 year old diffs than they were designed for.
But saying all that preventative maintenance is way better than replacing or rebuilding
-
Oils cheap. Diffs aren't.
-
25 minutes ago, Anglefire said:
If you had watched binky, you would know that tea is the essential ingredient
With out Tea I do not function. My family and work colleagues are made well aware of this and cope with it remarkably well.
-
1
-
-
I did not like the crude steel plates I made for the backing of the antiburst latches so decided to make some like the original ones on the door and similar for the b pillar. I alos welded up ther extra 2 holes I drilled into the B pillar. Even clamping a copper bar I still managed to get a bit of weld on the back side of the b pillar but hopefully not enough worth getting bothered about. I am also welding small nuts onto the b pillar plates so I can fit small machine screws to keep the plate in place when I remove the catch, I am getting fed up fishing bits of metal from behind it as there is not much room.
The backing plates went for a sand blast then coat with zinc phosphate primer and the bare metal on the b piller.
I am also thinking about releasing the rear tub mounts and giving a it tweak forwards as my door gaps are at 7-8mm.
-
I have read about people fitting Honda Civic radiators to thier VitesseI
I believe it to be a 1992-2000 EK, EG B16, B18 that is used.
Here in NZ I can buy a 3 row 52mm thick Aluminium one for NZ$132 delivered which seems a rather good deal.
My 55 year old one fitted in the car has been repaired may times and rattles when shaken so has some solder floating about inside it does n ot want to come out.What I want to know is what modifiactions need to be made to fit the radiator, obviously I need to make some mountng brackets and get then attached to the sides and some reworking of the plumbing is needed to hook it up to the engine. As the radiator is narrower than the Vitesse I will need to sort out how to mount the engine valances at the front. I have probably answered my own questions.
Thanks
-
Obviously where I went wrong was dimples - drill - measure - drill - bugger.
It should have been measure - measure - scratch head - measure - consult forum - mug of tea - measure - drill - mug of tea - measure - measure - drill
-
I also have a Type 9 box and Canley adaptor sitting on the shelf. I also managed to pickup a NOS V6 input shaft.
Just in case this doesnt work for some reason
-
I have decided to convertible anti burst latches to Vitesse 6 saloon.
I had both sides of the latch but no backing plates so I made them using some 6mm plate steel and a 1/4 UNF tap.
All looking good so far,
My B post has the dimples so I place the female part of the latch over it to confirm the spacing is correct and then drill 2 x 8mm holes. Bolt up the latch and looking good.
The door needed a bit more detective work when I remembered I have Mk2 Convertible at my parents house with the anti burst latches fitted., funny what you forget you have. A quick trip to their house and keeping social distance I measure the mounting position.
Back home and mark it out and drill the holes again out to 8mm for a bit minor adjustment and bolt all the parts together.
Close the door and CLANG as the respective parts of the anti burst latch fail to cooperate.
It turns out that on my car the male part on the door is too low for the female part on the dimples/b pillar. The male part was as high as I could get it in the recessed section of the door so I have had to redrill and lower the female part approx 10mm. Luckily there are captive nuts or securing plate on the back of the B pillar which I assume is because the rear tub of my is from a 13/60 that was most likely assembled in Nelson NZ. As I have had several doors pass through my hands I have no idea where they are built.
And do you pack the anti burst latches or do I need to readjust the rear section of the body to make them cooperate properly.
When I get to the rh side of the car I will be a bit more careful
-
Without us making mistake and admitting to them this forum would be a very quiet place😉
-
1 hour ago, Graham C said:
I went this route Single rail with j type OD as I was told numerous times this was the better combination. It has been an interesting journey and hopefully near to completion.
Sorry to cause confusion/ concern to anyone who read this thread.
Be nice to get the car back on the road.
Graham
No don't apologise. This has been great with everyone chipping in with various bits of information helps us all to learn more about these gear boxes.
-
Keep an eye on those Peter as I have seen them deteriorate over time.
-
2 litre Vitesse is the same driven plate as the Dolomite 1850 3 rail and Sprint according to Rimmers website.
-
I remember telling my mum 'It is only going to be off the road for 6 weeks so I can change the chassis'
That was back in 1983.
-
1
-
-
To be honest I have no idea what I have as it has been bolted to the engine for far to many years to remember.
But if IRCC it does have the modern clutch not the old Vitesse 6 one and the clutch plate fits on the splines nicely so I assume it will be a Dolomite gearbox compatible one.I might have to pull the box as I fear the clutch will have have 'stuck' to the flywheel as they have been together for over a decade, maybe be the best part of two🤔
Potential leaking stud on engine block - cures?
in Cooling System
Posted
I have trimmed helicoil lengths down, obviously not at the tang end😉
Last time on the Vitesse was when I was fitting the body and the thread for the bolt on the rh axle hump stripped.