Colin Lindsay
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Posts posted by Colin Lindsay
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I was very surprised to find my BMW takes the blue stuff, which makes things very simple for my garage. Of course everyone else's modern takes pink, and the Herald estate is now on the green Prestone stuff (reduced to £10.50 for 5l in Tescos.)
I don't know if that stuff can be mixed with anything else, there are no warnings on the container, but I'm still using it on a completely drained system with no residue of anything else in the engine already.
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14 hours ago, Iain T said:
So in the summer you'll have a mobile steam room🥵 ! Did it smell damp ?
Not the slightest smell of damp, the only clue (now that I know!) were the rusty screws in the seat runners. Ten towels so far, slid between foam and floor and left for an hour, then removed and squeezed out. I have a mountain of good clean towels from several recent house clearances being used as garage rags so have plenty spare. I hope the summer sun does go some way to drying it out completely.
9 hours ago, Wagger said:The foam will take years to dry. I cut it away and made a false wooden floor made like a mini pallet to keep the carpet off the floor. Now I have to suffer road noise generated by the open holes. May replace some of the bungs.
The foam is not only sodden, it was past saturation point and loose water was just rolling round the floor pans. I know it came in through the top roof / hood seal when the drain tube was blocked - easily cleared with some stainless accelerator cable down to where it drains in the front wing area - but I had to find out that it was blocked the hard way, first shower of rain after purchase:
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There's a danger of electrocution there. Believe it or not, I removed the seat, tidied up the cables, decided to look at the loom where it goes through the carpets so rolled back the carpet and: gallons of water. Never have I seen a Triumph anywhere close. This is inches of water sloshing about the floors under the seat and soaking the three-inch-thick foam soundproofing. I've gone through eight old towels mopping it up and it still runs over my fingers if I compress the foam. No small of damp, no witness marks, but wringing. If I cured the bad leak at the screen pillar when I bought the car in August, and have dry-stored or dry-used it since, this has been there six months at least. It really is unbelievable. I suppose it tells me there are no holes in the floor.
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2 hours ago, Wagger said:
Do you know any mobile mechanics who have experience of BMW's?
Believe it or not I was over at the In-Laws Engineering Works scrounging specially machined screws and a gentleman drove in with his car emblazoned on both sides: "BMW and Mini Specialists". He reckons it's the loom has been disturbed under the carpet and just needs the connectors cleaned and replaced again. I always disconnect the battery due to the danger of air bags and pyrotechnics going off inadvertently but this means so much lost time waiting for the residual current to drain from the system before anything can be removed and checked.
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I've got a Creator 410 for BMWs, it doesn't reset the warning light. Allegedly there's a small length of cable from the seat to the loom UNDER the carpet that may have been disturbed by numerous seat removals. Once I get the Freelander MOT prepped it's out with the seat again, lift the carpet and see what's there. The biggest problem is the 30 minute battery disconnect every time - can't test with it disconnected but can't work with it connected.
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6 hours ago, Iain T said:
Modern cars get you from A to B but I'm no fan.
Iain
I thought with a 1998 car I would be fine, very few sensors compared to more modern, but the airbag warning light has just come on and I can't reset it. It's the 'pass side seatbelt pretensioner' and seems some delicate cable or other may have been disturbed with so many removals of the seats. Might not get near it as I've managed to get an emergency MOT for the Freelander on Sunday, so that's the priority now. Still wiping up the oil from the oil change.
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Cup of coffee time, here comes a litany.
I thought the earlier part of the week was bad when I replaced the seat bushes in a BMW... they wear, the seat slides forwards or backwards quite alarmingly. £10 for a set of 10 (only need 8 ) but fitting is an entire pantomime. Move seat to the rear, unbolt front; move seat to front, unbolt rears, move seat to rear again. NOW disconnect battery for at least 30 minutes to prevent air bags going off, squeeze under seat and unplug electrics which is a total nightmare trying to do it one-handed but you can't fit both arms and shoulders into the available space. The seats are the heaviest seats I've ever had to lift out. THEN you discover that you forgot to move them forward again, to access the T50 Torx bolt at the rear underside so back into the car, reattach cables, replace battery, slide forward, and disconnect all again for the next 30 minutes. Seat out again, upside down and undo two small Torx screws plus the huge big one per runner. Pull the threaded adjuster out, onto the bench, dig out the remains of the old bushes, clean and replace counting the threads as you do so. Replace the adjuster, bolt into place, replace the seat, reconnect the electrics, replace the rear bolts, move the seat back, replace the front bolts... seat groans along slowly and at half speed - allegedly mis-aligned threads. Repeat the removal process including forgetting to properly position the seat so have to reconnect and disconnect the battery three times. Check both adjusters, replace seat, find that it moves well if the bolts are left loose. After a few full front-to-rear movements it seems the new bushes have settled down in the best position, retighten all bolts and nuts and sit back happy. Repeat for passenger side. NOW after all that, discover quite by accident that the seat moves up and down as well as fore and aft. Never knew that. Except the passenger side doesn't. Spend an hour on the Net trying to find out if it's actually meant to - these cars have loads of potential for options, loads of tied-up cables and connectors, heated mirrors, screenwashers and door locks, sports packs and smoker's packs, but the actual upgrade or option was never fitted to this spec of car, so it could be driver's side only. Work out that the seat makes a slight noise if the switch is moved up or down and then lever head and shoulders into footwell for a quick look, which reveals a small right-angled gearbox that tilts when the switch is pulled or pushed. Jamming this in place with a small crowbar keeps it straight and lo and behold, the mechanism suddenly works. Loads of spray grease and we have two fully working seats. Time for a small one to celebrate.
As I'm on a roll, next morning it's time to replace the brakes on a Ford Fiesta and address the 'Tyre pressure sensors not found' error message. This comes on every day after about ten miles driving and is an MOT fail. One sensor per wheel, sealed for life so can't change the batteries. Replacements are £34 each plus VAT from Ford. Ran a Forscan on them but it states they're all working, but at 8 years old now changing can't hurt so bought new genuine items from Ford yesterday. Couldn't get the rear wheels off; the stupid Ford wheel nuts need a special socket and even with that fitted to an air impact gun they won't budge. Went across to a local tyre fitter, much swearing and condemnation of Ford wheel nuts but we got them off eventually. Replaced the wheel sensors, ten miles down the road: error message on again. I can't for the life of me work out what the problem is. I can cheat if we ever get an MOT, reset the warning just before the test and if he doesn't drive 8 - 10 miles during it, it won't come on again, but the cause is as yet unknown and i'm avoiding going anywhere near a Ford Dealer, since I got stung for a BMW exhaust section yesterday; old one is rattling like mad and embarrassing when I drive along so since aftermarket eBay-style ones are only Euro 2 spec, and I need at least Euro 3, went to the local BMW dealer. £1200. Do I wish to go ahead? Ok... by the way that's £1200 plus VAT so well over £1400 THEN he hits me with an exchange surcharge of £200. £1700+ for a section of exhaust. That's more than half of the price of the car. Not surprising these are being scrapped in what looks like good condition. That exhaust is going to have to outlive me.
Ten minutes break then an oil and filter change on a Freelander which needs a long-reach 34mm adjustable head short-range ratchet spanner and arms like tentacles.
Tonight is movie night, a small glass, roaring fire, and a good cry over the bank balance.
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For many years I drove Triumphs and never worried about the leaf spring buttons. Do they contribute? Well, they're supposed to stop wear, but if they're completely absent... I never noticed any noise nor excess wear without. I've replaced them in recent years on leaf spring refurbishments, but in the springs I refurbished before I just used loads of grease and wound putties round the spring leaves. As you say, there are thick ones plus the thinner 'original' types, but I didn't find any real difference in the Herald's stance after I used the thick ones on that spring last year.
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just as a quick question: are D-types and J-types interchangeable ie wiring and other small bits aside are they a straight fit to the same O/D prepared gearbox? Don't need one but it's just to be nosey.
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I've seen a custom-made 'former' (if that's the word) cut from sheet steel that fits round a section of the rim, so you can slide it under the rim against the tyre and spray that section of wheel before sliding it round to the next bit. Obviously needs cut to your specific wheel circumference and curve but saves a lot of time.
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On 05/03/2024 at 10:15, Wagger said:
It is sad when you cannot find your old car.
For many years it was rare that I sold a car that was useable. My first one died on the forecourt in front of me as I drove off in a trade-in, gallons of water pouring out of the engine in a cloud of steam. Second one was written off on a bend, third one was a cut and shut bought in a hurry to replace the second. It was only my fourth that was bought by someone and driven to death in six months, and I saw it on the road again covered in dents and with a replacement rear door after it left me in a highly polished state.
Even my first Spitfire was written off by the new owner a few months after purchase.
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On 19/02/2024 at 17:39, micmak said:
Diagnosing this with certainty, is a little beyond my capabilities. So, a mechanic friend will take a look at it next week. If it is the wheel bearings, where is the best place to buy new ones?
.....Mick.....
If you're doing nothing towards the end of April (it's a Saturday but can't remember the exact date, will post later) the Northern Ireland TSSC are descending on my house for the annual Garage Day of lubricating trunnions, gearboxes and diffs, greasing handbrake cables and greasing bearings etc plus an underneath inspection on the lift. Only 75 minutes up the A1 from Dublin. Plenty of owners to give an opinion, and if you're lucky one of them might even be correct...
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The H of HE is for HIGH compression; LE is rare in the UK but refers to LOW compression.
E (I think) just stands for engine.
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Ooooh Matron... that's a long one!
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On 02/03/2024 at 20:56, Peter Truman said:
I assume it still has the 13/60 front suspension turrents, as the Spits are different ie the engine mount spacings are wider apart to allow the engine to sit lower. Vit, GT6 and Herald are the same Spits different.
Something I never knew until relatively recently, when someone asked me at a mainland Triumph show if there was any difference and I stated there was not. A nice gentleman standing nearby stepped in and corrected me, no doubt to the relief of the enquirer who was buying one second-hand. Once home I had to check all my spare turrets and found two sets of Spitfire ones that differ from the Herald turrets. I have very early Herald versions that are different yet again, but had always assumed the others were all standard components throughout the range. You learn something every day!
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1 hour ago, dougbgt6 said:
I have a 1 and 5/16" Britool socket, bought for the bolt that holds a Mini flywheel onto it's crank. Now 55 years old, used twice. Prized possession.
Doug
That struck a chord with me, I have an 18.5mm socket for Ford wheel nuts. Just used it yesterday, after an age on the shelf. (Actually couldn't get the rear wheels off the car at all, nuts stuck solid so that's a professional garage job coming up.)
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22 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:
so do the indicators still work ok ???
Pete
Perfectly, as does the horn, but there's a tendency to park across two spaces in the car park.
I know it's in cahoots with the BMW at present, they mutter about me in the garage at night.
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Used on other cars of the period, I found this one for sale under 'Sunbeam'. Also marked 116 on the body, if that's a model number.
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Here we go again!! As Homer Simpson would say: they haven't learned a thing.
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2 hours ago, Chris A said:
You would if it was a DeLorean you wanted testing
I wonder..... get fined for no MOT or get fined for speeding? Anyway if it was a De Lorean I could go into the future, get an MOT at some ridiculous date 6 months from now, then come back here again.
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Just booked on for a re-check of available dates... "number of users in the queue ahead of you: 743"
There is a cancellation slot available, 70 miles from me in Coleraine, in 15 minutes. Might make it?
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1 hour ago, Stu64Herald said:
Thanks Colin
I can get more done if there was interest , not sure what people would be prepared to pay tho ?
That's never an easy question to answer; I've seen so many excellent ideas run off a number of items then fail to sell as many as hoped (or as many as members said they would buy, in initial enquiries, but then failed to step up on the day)
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'Part Worn' tyres are a local thing over here - anyone else see them in their areas? Supposedly taken from accident-damaged vehicles, but can you really trust good tread on a tyre that may have had a serious impact? I have a mate sells tyres as a sideline but he claims to only use the spare tyre from cars they have picked up at accident sites or bought from auction, and I must admit to having used some in the past, within date and no visible wear at all, for about £15 each.
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15 hours ago, AlanT said:
Most owners need the MOT because they don’t know what is right.
Well, according to members of the Morgan Owners Club, we don't do our own maintenance so therefore don't know what's right or wrong...
Advice on garage set up
in Tools
Posted
My local Tyre Centre uses the Makita cordless impact gun, seems an impressive piece of kit.