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PeterH

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Posts posted by PeterH

  1. I found a YouTube vid of an American using a similar device.

    It consists of a hand operated pump that vacates a small reservoir. This is then attached by a transparent tube to the bleed nipple and sucks the fluid / air out until only fluid is visible in the tube. (MM part 040817932, latest catalogue says it New). Amazon also have them from several sources - looks like same tool - some with good reviews other poor, hence my query.

  2. 11 hours ago, KevinSke said:

    I have read that the clutch release lever is rather susceptible to minor wear in linkages etc which is exaggerated due to the effect of the lever

    I had very long travel on the clutch pedal, even with the carpet out it only just disengaged on the floor. On checking the lever after taking gear box out, there was quite alot of wear in the push rod pivot and where the 2 plugs that carry the throw out bearing go through the aluminium fork. Rimmers supplied a second hand lever that was just as bad so I made bushes for my original. The pedal movement is now very good.

  3. I used stone chip aerosol on the sills and sprayed top coat straight on top. I either didn't allow the stone chip to fully cure, or because I didn't prime after, but the top coat has cracked, not crazed but quite noticable cracks. Its on the list of jobs to sort out.

  4. Don't know if this will help, but on my Mini the rear quarterlights fit into a chrome frame by means of a rubber strip, very similar to the lifting channel, and like you I couldn't get it to fit.

    Advice from the Mini forum was to forget the rubber and use a sealer /  adhesive intended for modern windscreens e.g. Sikaflex 221. I got an equiverlent from my local car body supply company.

    Peter

     

  5.  

    50 minutes ago, GT6M said:

    Ye dont need a spreader, just spread the bearings !!!

     

    Without a spreader I had real problems getting the shims in behind the bearings to give the specified 3 tho' preload, in fact I gave up and just got as much as I could and still get a good mesh marking.

  6. I've just rebuilt my Mk3 Spitfire diff. You need a good selection of shims and some of them are no longer available. I ended up making my own from flat shim stock. All new bearings, correct preload (not easy to measure), mesh checked with Engineers Blue. A complete pig to fit hypoid unit back into housing without the special spreader. Even then it is far from silent.

  7. I've just had the Spit checked by a local garage. They did a 'Visual Health Check' using a preprinted check sheet, and checked the brakes on the MOT roller. All for £25.00 +VAT. They found a couple of very minor items (the usual comment about front wheel bearings, and a slight wobble in a rear wheel (wires)). The point being that if there had been something major that would have resulted in an MOT failure I wouldn't have a failure logged on the MOT system, needing a retest to clear, all I would have to do it fix it in my own time and if worried, get them to check my work.

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  8. 29 minutes ago, johny said:

    Is there much in the fuel pump filter (assuming you still got the mechanical type) and wheres all this crud coming from?

    Good point - I'll check the fuel pump.

    The crud was mainly rust debris. I rebuilt the car a few years ago with it not having run for many years so it's out of the tank.

    I was once told that the word 'crud' comes from a geological survey of the Colorado River when they couldn't identify a substance = Colorado River Unidentified Deposit. CRUD

  9. Today I finally got round to fitting the ethanol proof fuel hose bought from the club shop some time ago. I was amazed to see the amount of crud collected in the in-line filter. I cut the plastic filter body in half for a better examination (as you do). The worrying thing was that the paper filter element was glued to two metal end plates, this glue has completely deteriorated allowing the plates to come off the element, and hence crud to get past the filter. Presumably another effect of the ethanol. I've now ordered a reusable filter from the club shop.

    P1000212.JPG

  10.  

    10 hours ago, Dick Twitchen said:

    Well the Massey Ferguson factory was only over the road from the Standard in Banner Lane!

    It was the Standard factory. I worked there. Most of the office furniture was still marked Standard Motor Company.

  11. To replace a couple of rather 'tired' studs that hold the spring onto the diff. (Mk3 Spitfire), I bought some new ones under the part number given in the parts book (136818) But they have come in considerably longer - 4,1/8" compared to 3,1/4" for the original. Are they acceptable ?

    P1000209.JPG.e49a8af1b6b3aeffb74885c6a29de8eb.JPG

  12. I thought the speedo looked odd, and wasn't sure whether cut and shut was too bad on a car with a chassis and separate body tubs. It also looked rather rough with a dented door and bonnet. Wonder where it came from.

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