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Posts posted by PeterH
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The bolt through the middle of the plate is only holding the spring together, not the plate. If you've removed the 6 nuts it should come off (with persuasion).
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I assume fitting a swing axle to an early Spit would be OK as the swing axle was fitted as standard later.
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When I bought the car (Mk3 Spitfire) it came with an original Triumph steel hardtop and no hood or frame. On rebuild I fitted a hood. If I want to fit the hardtop do I need to remove the hood and frame or just release the hood from the rear deck?
I think I read somewhere Spitfires were available as only a hardtop - I ought to get the heritiage cert, it might tell me if that's how the car was built.
Peter
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Following earlier posts under the topic 'Reverse Engagment', I think I've got things sorted.
As mentioned there was a lot of play in the clutch release arm, both in the push rod and the buttons carrying the release bearing. I ordered a used replacement from Rimmers, but this had almost as much play as the old one so was returned. Fortunately I have a lathe so I turned up some bushes to take up the wear. After a quick gearbox overhaul (see circlip and synchro posts) I got it all back together yesterday. I also replaced the slave cylinder. Intital test in the garage seem fine. Clutch well up pedal and no grating into reverse or first. Can't try it on road just yet - need to shuffle cars round to get it out. Now the interesting thing is that it looks as though there was a clutch problem well before I rebuilt the car and I didn't notice. The clamp bolt slot in the old slave cylinder has been filed out and is nearly 1 1/2" long. I guess someone did this in the hope of getting more movement by pushing the cylinder further in.
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(Circlip came off - brute force and ignorance. (yesterday's post))
I can't find anything in the manual about checking the synchro (baulk) rings. There is a figure quoted on internet for MG B of 0.020" clearance when ring pushed hard home onto cone (back of ring to gear face). Presumably a similar figure is OK for our cars?
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Thanks. I'll give it a go tomorrow. Glass of red waiting !
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Thanks Richard. I'll remember that when I come to reassemble the box.
Still doesn't help with getting it off. Being recessed in the gear you can't get a lever in behind it as you might if it wasn't.
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That's more or less what I was trying to do with the screwdrivers. The circlip is on a splined shaft and is actually recessed in the end of the gear.
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3 rail gearbox.
Without the special tool shewn in the workshop manual. Does anyone have a dodge as to how to remove the mainshaft circlip 112394 ?
I've tried prising with various screwdrivers but you need at least 3 hands (extra small).
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Sorry I seem to have hijacked this thread. Perhaps I should start a new one.
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At long last taken gearbox out. What a struggle. Had to take bell housing off in car to get box out - can't see any other way out.
1) Clutch plate in correct way round - clearly marked fly wheel side.
2) Some crankshaft end float - must be near max acceptable - need to check further.
3) The probable the cause - lots of wear in the alu clutch release lever where bushes fit for thrust brg carrier. Also play in eye of slave cylinder push rod. I've just ordered a new (used) lever from Rimmers. New NLA.
Might have a look at syncro whilst box is out so maybe a while before I know if I've cured fault
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Suzie (Courier Spitfire register) tells me this white car is now for sale on ebay.
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Excelent - I really like the next one - great music. Reminds me of ......................................
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Looks like a White Spitfire in Vodafone's latest ad. Loading shopping into boot - bad guys arrive - girl phones police.
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Thanks for comments, Gear box out at earliest opportunity.
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I've got this problem on the Spit. Car had new clutch on rebuild 3 years ago and has always dragged slightly since, but now seems to have got worse.
Is there a quick fix ('Bodge') that will see the season out, then I can take gearbox out and make a proper job over the winter?
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Canley list coke cable CC10, round knob, under Dashboard Controls. (in stock @£13.44)
Doesn't say if it locks, but most of my parts came from them and mine does.
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My Mk3's locks on giving it a twist. It was a new cable when I restored the car 3 years ago. Can't remember which supplier, most likely Canleys. It has a round knob.
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My local independent motor factor sold me 5 ltrs. Comma Hyper Clean. Works well for me - doesn't smell as bad as Gunk. Apply with brush allow to soak and pressure wash off.
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I should have said that the carpets were / are black and the Triumph spare parts catalogue only lists black. The carpet inserts on the door cards are also black. I have an old late Mk3 brochure showing a, probably, damson car with tan interior with black carpets and inserts.
Hope this help
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My Valencia Blue Mk3 had / has Tan interior this is as original - looks very smart. Bought through club shop made by Newton Commercial.
My id plate states colour 66 = Valencia Blue
trim 13 = Light Tan.
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Perhaps this is a good place to list classic friendly MOT stations.
I've just had the Spit done for the 3rd year by Totnes Cross Garage, Halwell, Totnes.
I can recommend them in South Devon. Very keen on classics and 'interesting' cars.
(pass with advisory on hand brake adjustment)
Peter
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I used to work with a rather stayed middle aged man - Don.
One of the younger office lads commented that Don drives like an old man.'
Don (quick as a flash) returned - 'I drive to become an old man !'
Carpet Press Studs
in Bodywork & Fittings
Posted
Any body got any tips for lining up the press studs to hold the foot well carpet in place.
New carpet, new footwell so starting from scratch. I have fitedt the female part to the carpet but how to transfer that to the floor? Or is it better to do it the otherway round i.e. fit the stud to the floor first?