Jump to content

PeterH

TSSC Member
  • Posts

    398
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    6

Posts posted by PeterH

  1. Any body got any tips for lining up the press studs to hold the foot well carpet in place.

    New carpet, new footwell so starting from scratch. I have fitedt the female part to the carpet but how to transfer that to the floor? Or is it better to do it the otherway round i.e. fit the stud to the floor first?

  2. IMG_0119.thumb.JPG.f3e4a721bc6481204f48c737e220005c.JPGI bought Newton Commercial ones through the club. They are well made and fitted well. I replaced the foams as well, the old ones were well shot.

    Whist off you want to check  the seat back hasn't broken off the base. Both mine had and a second hand seat I bought was cracked.

  3. When I bought the car (Mk3 Spitfire) it came with an original Triumph steel hardtop and no hood or frame. On rebuild I fitted a hood. If I want to fit the hardtop do I need to remove the hood and frame or just release the hood from the rear deck?

    I think I read somewhere Spitfires were available as only a hardtop - I ought to get the heritiage cert, it might tell me if that's how the car was built.

    Peter

  4. Following earlier posts under the topic 'Reverse Engagment', I think I've got things sorted.

    As mentioned there was a lot of play in the clutch release arm, both in the push rod and the buttons carrying the release bearing. I ordered a used replacement from Rimmers, but this had almost as much play as the old one so was returned. Fortunately I have a lathe so I turned up some bushes to take up the wear. After a quick gearbox overhaul (see circlip and synchro posts) I got it all back together yesterday. I also replaced the slave cylinder. Intital test in the garage seem fine. Clutch well up pedal and no grating into reverse or first. Can't try it on road just yet - need to shuffle cars round to get it out. Now the interesting thing is that it looks as though there was a clutch problem well before I rebuilt the car and I didn't notice. The clamp bolt slot in the old  slave cylinder has been filed out and is nearly 1 1/2" long. I guess someone did this in the hope of getting more movement by pushing the cylinder further in.

  5. (Circlip came off - brute force and ignorance. (yesterday's post))

    I can't find anything in the manual about checking the synchro (baulk) rings. There is a figure quoted on internet for MG B of 0.020"  clearance when ring pushed hard home onto cone (back of ring to gear face). Presumably a similar figure is OK for our cars?

  6. At long last taken gearbox out. What a struggle. Had to take bell housing off in car to get box out - can't see any other way out.

    1) Clutch plate in correct way round - clearly marked fly wheel side.

    2) Some crankshaft end float - must be near max acceptable - need to check further.

    3) The probable the cause - lots of wear in the alu clutch release lever where bushes fit for thrust brg carrier. Also play in eye of slave cylinder push rod.  I've just ordered a new (used) lever from Rimmers. New NLA.

    Might have a look at syncro whilst box is  out so maybe a while before I know if I've cured fault

  7. I've got this problem on the Spit.  Car had new clutch on rebuild 3 years ago and has always  dragged slightly since, but now seems to have got worse.

    Is there a quick fix ('Bodge') that will see the season out, then I can take gearbox out and make a proper job over the winter?

  8. Perhaps this is a good place to list classic friendly MOT stations.

     

    I've just had the Spit done for the 3rd year by Totnes Cross Garage, Halwell, Totnes.

     

    I can recommend them in South Devon. Very keen on classics and 'interesting' cars.

     

    (pass with advisory on hand brake adjustment)

     

    Peter

×
×
  • Create New...