Adrian

March 20, 2016

Pete, with persistence I got the ss tube partially in but it still pushed the bush partly out on release of the vice. It looks to me as if it is just too tight. Can I ask there is supposed to be a smooth steel tube inside the curled end of the leaf? It isn't an outer casing of the old bush is it. If it's supposed to be there I really can't see how I can get the ss tube in

March 20, 2016

Actually in addition to this I know the leaf Spring bushes are difficult but I can't for the life of me get the sgs tube in without pushing out the opposite half bush. Even when fully braced it seems the tube catches the inner edge, compresses it and then pops out the bush when the vice is opened. I have slapped plenty of lubricant in as well. Thanks

March 20, 2016

Hello all, just a quick question. I'm using super flex bushes and wanted to know if it is necessary to use the water and dust shields on the rear trunnion for my gt6? With the modern bushing is it a luxury rather than a necessity?

Thanks

March 10, 2016

I was trying to keep my post informative and factual but of course I hope it goes without saying I also wish Owen a speedy and full recovery.

March 10, 2016

Hello All

I've been talking to Owen at Park Lane over the last 2 months or so regarding refurbishing my GT6 MK3 interior, initially door cards but then additional trim and seat covers. I've been waiting for his leather price list after chasing on two occasions, he doesn't seem to answer emails and was due to visit me for advice on two occasions and didn't turn up (he only lives 7 miles away).

Now don't get me wrong he seems to be a very nice chap who seems to be too busy with his successful business of which I've read nothing but good reviews. As he hadn't responded I decided to just order some bog standard heritage boards. I've just received a refund today with a note saying he had a heart attack last week and was in hospital so was unsure when he could fulfil the order.

So firstly it is a heads up for you chaps who have current orders with him and secondly whilst I very much like the quality and prices of his products have you any suggestions on alternative suppliers, although I don't think any of the main alternative suppliers could compete with Owens prices. Should I try and get the raw material from him and have a go at making them myself?

Thanks

Adrian

March 5, 2016

Thanks Andy

That's what I thought- Unfortunately I'm wrestling with the drivers side vertical link. I'm no expert but I'd say it was close to original and hasn't had a lot of attention other than previous owners slapping on paint. Had to cut the trunnion bolt - took it to the local garage as I couldn't shift it and they had no luck either so I'm left with trying to drill it out or but another one. The shock bolt is totally seized as well (but i'll leave that as the bracket seems to be difficult to come by). I shattered by bench vice attempting to remove a bush. So whilst painful and costly I think it will be worthwhile in the long run.

March 1, 2016

Hello all

I've read many threads on this subject and I just wanted to clarify my understanding of exactly what it is. I am using the Jigsaw CV conversion pictured below. I have new bearings etc but the ones on are sound so I think I'll leave them on.

The parts diagrams show the splined driveshaft with a 148850 (spacer) and (149865) stoneguard / oil flinger onto the rear of the spline. I'm assuming that these two elements are integral to the Jigsaw unit and effectively from a backstop to the inner bearing seal?

So if I slide on the vertical link, the inner bearings would sit against the spacer (at least once tightened up). The outer hub slides onto the splined driveshaft sandwiching the bearings and if I understand correctly this is the critical element of end float. In order to tighten the assembly to the required torque WITHOUT over compressing the bearings to the required 0.002 tolerance the shims are required to ensure the inner drive shaft assembly is just slightly wider than the vertical link assembly to allow free rotation.

A good photo and explanation of the Canley method I found posted by 'Cookie' shows the measuring of the endfloat against a straight edge across the top of the bearing and measuring the free space between the beating and the inner shaft face. My main uncertainty is if I offer up the assembly and measure the float (If I am correct this has to be done unloaded) once tightened this float could be compressed and disappear so is it a case of try, try, try again until there is negligible play which seems to fly in the face of the accurate measurement. I don't have a DTI Gauge.

Also I was surprised that the old drive shaft nut was not particularly tight when I stripped it down!

Thanks

Adrian

February 21, 2016

Hello all, many thanks for the advice regarding the front suspension and bearings I am now planning the rear work and as the title suggests it includes the dif. I haven't started yet but wanted to seek any words of wisdom. This is what I'm planning but I know it can get out of hand,

-Strip, de-rust and paint.

-Whilst stripped, clean, de-rust and paint body and chassis where accessible.

- Mark at jigsaw said you don't need the hub puller?

-But I have a diff leak which I know is no surprise but if stripping is it worthwhile taking off and redoing gaskets. Looks to me like the front oil seal is on the way out. So get reconditioned unit or do it myself?

If I take the diff off I'll be removing the leaf spring, does anyone have any dimensions to check if it is sagging (current ride height seems ok).

Rebuild with new jigsaw cv conversion - advice on the dreaded end float.

I think I've attached the photos ok. I did wrongly post this under the suspension group.

Thanks

1972 GT6 mk3 rotoflex

February 21, 2016

Sorry chaps I've just noticed there is a specific rear axle category so I'll post it in there,.

Thanks for the reply Gary.

February 21, 2016

Hello all, many thanks for the advice regarding the front suspension and bearings I am now planning the rear work and as the title suggests it includes the dif. I haven't started yet but wanted to seek any words of wisdom. This is what I'm planning but I know it can get out of hand,

-Strip, de-rust and paint.

-Whilst stripped, clean, de-rust and paint body and chassis where accessible.

- Mark at jigsaw said you don't need the hub puller?

-But I have a diff leak which I know is no surprise but if stripping is it worthwhile taking off and redoing gaskets. Looks to me like the front oil seal is on the way out. So get reconditioned unit or do it myself?

If I take the diff off I'll be removing the leaf spring, does anyone have any dimensions to check if it is sagging (current ride height seems ok).

Rebuild with new jigsaw cv conversion - advice on the dreaded end float.

I think I've attached the photos ok.

Thanks

1972 GT6 mk3 rotoflex

February 19, 2016

Hello Chaps, following on from the above thread I've measured the camber on the wheels and got -2.9 nearside and -1.9 offside (I've seen loads of contradictory threads saying negative is top out and others saying it's top in - I think negative is top in towards the centre line?

Anyway - everything went back in as came off other than new standard springs and avo shocks. The assembled units were the same length as the old ones prior to installing. All the shims went on exactly as came off. So......

1. I assume it is not healthy having uneven camber

2. even if I remove the shims I think I'll still be slightly negative and no where near the 2-3ish + degrees as per the manual.

3. Any ideas / solutions. Is such a negative camber detrimental? - I realise that the fine tuning will probably require a garage.

Thanks

February 18, 2016

Well all now put together and torqued up, took it out for a spin round the block and the wheels didn't fall off, so that's got to be a positive! Thanks for all the advice, nerve racking when you haven't done it before.

I now have to check the alignment, I did notice that the camber seems a little too negative (with the top of the tyre leaning in). I need to measure, but it visually looks more than the 3ish degrees in the manual. All the shims were bagged and tagged so I know they went back in the right place. Perhaps the little run has already bedded in the felt seal, so jack it up and check tomorrow.

February 17, 2016

Thank you gents, I have a punch so should be nice and cheap

February 16, 2016

Hi all, moving on from the trunnion posting and pete's good advice regarding bearings, I've got the following dilemma.

I don't have sockets of suitable diameter to remove or replace the races. I've read you can tap the races out from the opposite side carefully with a screwdriver. But that doesn't alter the fact I have nothing suitable to install. Should I bite the bullet and get a bearing removal kit? If so any suggestions. Looking at the prices if I can get away with tapping out with a screwdriver buying an oversized socket would probably be cheaper.

Do you know of a good 'how to' guide for the gt6?

I recon by the time I've finished you'll be able to put all my questions together to make a restoration guide!

Thanks in advance

February 13, 2016

Sorry, gt6 mk3 one of the last rotoflex. Exactly the sort of thing I've been reading about. I'll be having a stern word with the garage before taking it this Autumn!

February 12, 2016

Yes left as viewed from the driving position. Just a point of clarity when I said original I meant the ones I'd taken off the car. With regard to bearings basically renewing the front bearings. I have the jigsaw cv upgrade so will be doing the rear ones soon ( hope the hassle with the end float isn't too bad!).

February 12, 2016

That's great chaps.

Left thread to left side of car and right thread to right side.

It's really useful to gather peoples opinions whilst delving into the depths of Triumph ownership - I just hope I can get the bearings fitted without too much trouble!

February 12, 2016

Thanks Andrew, but they are the original ones I've taken off. In good condition but wanted to make sure the previous fitter got them the right way. Both identical exterior, no distinguishing marks. Just left and right threads.

February 12, 2016

Hello all, I'm just checking, is it left thread on right side and vica versa. I don't just want to blindly copy what went before just in case it was installed incorrectly and can't find anything authoritatve on the subject. Many thanks

February 6, 2016

Thanks Clive. It's always good to get confirmation. I'm actually mechanically stripping (wire wheel, brush, etc) as I have paint over poor paint over patches of rust so I thought going back to metal was best. Not thought of electrolysis, it would certainly get into those hard to reach areas.

February 5, 2016

This question could possibly be a no brainer but I just wanted to check as I am new to refurbs, etc.

I have fully stripped my GT6 front suspension, vertical link, stub axle, trunnion, arms, etc. I noted when dismantling that areas of metal to metal contact (Stub axle in vertical link and Hub on stub axle) were bare, possibly due to the grease in those areas. Also bush housings weren't treated either.

I'm currently striping the existing degraded paint to metal as I'm planning to use the POR 15 system which includes the acid etching solution.

Am I correct in my observations and that internal bush housings and metal to metal areas should remain unpainted and therefore need masking prior to any metal prep?

Any advice would be much appreciated.

January 15, 2016

Just as an update - I have completed the procedure exactly as described - easy. (I didn't need to loosen the quarter light window)

In order to complete the circuit, once the glass was out of the door I heated using a paint stripper gun rather than a blow torch on both front and back of the strip. After a couple of taps with a screwdriver on one edge there was enough room to insert the driver and gently prize the metal strip from one edge continuing to heat along the length. I obtained new glazing rubbers from Rimmers (I know that some people don't rate them!) and fully inserted it into the channel (WITHOUT THE GLASS). I then inserted the glass into the rubber channel achieving approximately 70% with hand pressure. The remaining 30% was achieve using a tourniquet to apply gentle pressure until fully inserted - result, a nice tight fit without the need for adhesives.

Now, I know there will be words of warning and some I would probably anticipate would be risk of glass breakage from too rapid or too uneven tourniquet pressure. Perhaps not all channels are like mine and may have been modified by leverage so the rubber doesn't fit as snugly. I'm pretty sure the rubber is fractionally thinner than the original but this help in this instance. All I know is it worked really well and am very pleased with the fitted result.

NB the photo of the channel shows the rubber splaying as it is not cut flush with the end of the metal channel.

January 10, 2016

Thanks for the pinned article. Very interesting - I bought the car from StevieB. Clearly he didn't get around to it. So much for following the manual!

Thanks

January 9, 2016

Hello Forum

I'm new to classic cars and am looking forward to my custodianship of my '72 GT6 so please forgive me if I ask daft questions. I thought I'd start off with a 'simple' task and change the badly scratched drivers side glass. I've fallen at the first hurdle!

I've followed the manual (noted the glass stop is absent), as per the instructions when the window is wound down the runners do not disengage from the channel. I'm stuck as I don't want to force anything. Other forums suggest circlips on the outer edge when the window is wound up - these are not present and assume these maybe other model specific details.

I would appreciate any advice as I'm sure most of you have conquered this issue at some time.

Many thanks

Adrian

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