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Berty

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    East Midlands

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  1. Iain, Replacing the PRV incresed the overall oil pressure. Replacing the gauge stopped it mis-reading at lower pressures. So yes, both. Berty
  2. JohnD - Apologies. I'm relatively new here. I thought I had profusely thanked everyone that had helped me within the text, but I did not realise there was a separate system to award thanks to individuals. I have now awarded you your requested thanks..... Berty
  3. Thanks Richard - yes I'm realising that not all oils are equal. There's a distributor of Penrite not so far from me so I'll stick to that in the future.
  4. Thanks - I will stick with the 20/50. I will also stick with the upgraded spring in the pressure relief valve, it seems fine. Thanks all. Berty
  5. The Jury is in. It's taken longer than expected to get to fix it (mainly weather!). To recap I had 30-35psi when cold on idle and 0psi on hot idle. Under load it was about 40-45psi and the oil light never came on once the engine was started. I assembled the bits I thought I would need and... Changed the oil pressure switch. I wasn't really expecting this to do anything but it was quick and cheap. Sure enough the oil light still didn't come on when the gauge was reading 0psi, but I wanted to make sure. Changed the oil pressure relief valve. I replaced all of it as again, it's quite cheap. I went for the upgraded spring but must admit I'm struggling to find out at what pressure this will actually kick in. Oil pressure now 60-65 at cold and under load, but still only 8-10 at hot tick over. Stuck a different gauge on and now 70 psi under load and 25 psi at hot tick over. Looking good. Tested the gauges using a compressor - not the most accurate of tests, but you can see the difference. My original gauge was OK at higher pressures, but at 25psi was reading 5-10psi. Also the gauge was a bit "sticky". Ordered and fitted a replacement gauge (the test one was not mine and was not was as graduated). Cold tick over 60-65psi Under load - 65-75psi Hot tick over 20-25psi I may stick in some 20/60 oil at next change which may also help. Thanks for all your suggestions - with your help I think it's sorted relatively cheaply. But should I be reverting to the standard oil pressure relief spring ??
  6. Thanks everyone for your input - really appreciated. I'm gearing up to work on the problem on Sunday (hopefully). I will report back how I get on. Thanks again.
  7. Thanks everyone for your input. Very Helpful. I will recondition the relief valve - I'll get a new spring and piston. I have certainly not replaced these and I don't know if they were done when the engine was rebuilt some time in the 90s. I'll see if that gets the pressure up. If it does then I'll change the oil if it doesn't stay up. Otherwise I will be getting some work done over the winter and will add bearings to the list..... I will report back......
  8. Thanks for getting back to me Clive. I noticed this at the end of last season, it may have been like it since I got the car 3 years ago - not sure. Earlier this year I did a basic service and changed the oil filter and oil. Thought this may have alleviated the issue as the pressure seemed fine - but I hadn't worked out that it was only when hot that the problem appears. So the oil change and oil filter change made no difference. Probably only done around 200 miles since then. The oil pressure light does not come on (could have sworn this was orange though). I will do another test today, but the problem seems consistent. Sounds like the oil pressure relief valve may need a service......
  9. Hopefully someone can advise. I have read up on this and the suggestions range from "don't worry about it" to "rebuild the engine"! Herald 13/60 When starting from cold the idle oil pressure is around 30 PSI, which seems to be about correct. As the engine gets hotter the idle oil pressure drops. Eventually reaching 0 PSI if stuck in traffic. At 3000 revs it's always 35+ PSI whether hot or cold, it's only the PSI at idle that changes. The car is not losing oil and runs fine. I have recently changed the oil which has made no difference. I am using "Comma CLA20505L 5L 20W/50 Classic Motor Oil" (this was recommended somewhere, but can't remember where). So my first thought is the oil itself, getting too thin when hot. Any recommendations? Second thought would be the oil pump, but I'd rather not change that if it doesn't need it. Are these symptoms a problem anyway? Thanks in advance.
  10. Thanks everyone - yes - the old ones were halogens - it was written on them ! I just presumed they were not. I have purchased and fitted domed ones - all good... Cheers Berty
  11. Ah - I thought you meant the split pin jobbies. i will look into the official locks....
  12. I have bonnet locks and they're good, but a bit ugly..... I'm sure I'm not the first to do this mod, but I searched the forum and couldn't find it so I just thought I'd share.....
  13. There are sealed beams here... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Triumph-Herald-Genuine-Lucas-7-Sealed-Beam-Halogen-Conversion-H4-Headlights-/271330283604?fits=Model%3AHerald&hash=item3f2c8b9054:g:WPAAAOxyRNJSkmqV I think I drove once at dusk last year, so I don't plan in doing too much night driving.
  14. Thanks Clive. Yes, I think I would like to keep the original look. Are there any Halogen lights which have an approximation of the original lens ?
  15. I bought my Herald last year and returned it home to the UK from Germany. It is fitted with LHD headlamp lenses (see pic) and I need to change these. I'm looking for advice..... Should I upgrade them to halogen? There seems to be quite a lot of choice. Can anyone recommend anything ? Thanks in advance, Berty
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