[** 26/02/23 Heading Up ** Probably how not to restore a Herald!]

Re battery, surely it must be negative earth?.

I meant negative earth. D'oh!

 

I've already turned the battery clamp around so the thinnest portion faces the terminals.

 

Then again not convinced that the battery clamp is original as it two different sized nuts, and one of the 'arms' has been welded back together.

 

Karl

[** 26/02/23 Heading Up ** Probably how not to restore a Herald!]

First a confession, I haven't wielded a spanner in anger in about 15 years, ever since cars got so complicated that I had no option but to pay someone else to service and repair them.

Therefore buying a 1968 Herald 1200 represented a leap of faith for both me and my long suffering wife, however we both love classics, having owned a Beetle (proper rear engined and air cooled), a 1966 Herald 1200, and a Mini, again a proper Mini not the BMW pastiche.

So here is my car, purchased in July from a dealer in Aylesbury.











Rust in all the usual places on the body shell, ie around the front wheel arches, lower doors and lower rear wings, however the underside is solid and doesn't need welding from what I can see so far.

Under the bonnet there is some rot in the bulkhead around the heater plenum chamber.




That's the worst of it.



The other side is much better.

The rest of the under bonnet area is as tatty as you would expect from an unrestored 48 year old car.

Not sure if the gold cam cover denotes a replacement engine. Need to uncover the engine number under all that grime.


I'm currently striping the horrible black paint off that a previous owner saw fit to daub on the bulkhead.

Not sure about the battery set up. The car has been converted to + earth and an alternator fitted, however, the battery terminals are very close to the battery retaining clamp and I've managed to short it out a few times when tightening up the battery connection.

I think I will have turn the battery around and fit longer + & - leads to keep everything safe and isolated.

And finally a pic of the interior.


Carpets have been removed as they were faded and stinky, which has revealed a remarkable sound floor area.

The dash is a bit of a state and requires sanding and refinishing.

Some of the switches don't work, or are loose, so I can see me sorting that out over the winter.

I've already fitted new HT leads, distributor cap and rotor arm, all of which have improved performance noticeably.

I'll post more updates as I undertake more jobs on the car.

Karl

[Is this repairable?]

I'm glad of all the feedback everyone, as it's good to understand all the options open to me.

 

Particularly as I was scared that the corrosion may have rendered the bulkhead toast!

 

I'm inclined towards doing the most thorough job I can, without breaking the bank.

 

Karl

[Is this repairable?]

John, I was pondering drilling out the spot welds on the plenum chamber allowing it to be removed and the patches welded in flat with the bulkhead panel.

 

I am assuming the the plenum panel could then be plug welded back in using the wholes drilled when removing the spot welds.

 

Karl

[Is this repairable?]

I prefer the look of 'Option 3'

 

I'm not looking for perfect, as there will be a heater sitting in front of it, but something presentable would be preferred.

 

Karl

[Is this repairable?]

Thanks for the feedback guys.

 

The dash is going to have to come out at some point as it needs re-finishing over the winter, so I may well get it welded up.

 

The sound proofing is already out as it was mainly dust held in a plastic bag!

 

In the interim I'll cut the rot out and stabilise the rust.

 

Karl

[Is this repairable?]

I bought my Herald back in July, and to all intents and purposes it appeared sound, with the just to be expected rust in the lower passenger door and adjacent rear wing corner.

 

Having driven the car a few times the heater appeared to be jammed on so I thought I would start the restoration with the heater assembly, which was duly removed.

 

This revealed a heater plenum chamber full of crud which had obviously trapped a lot of moisture over time, with the effect below.

 

 

And in close up.

 

 

This is the passenger side, the driver's side has some corrosion, but not as much.

 

 

And again in close up.

 

 

The rest of the bulk head is solid, so I'm loath to have to replace the entire bulkhead assembly.

 

Assuming it is repairable, can anyone recommend a good body shop in the Banbury area.

 

Karl

[Grease/oil Gun Recommendations?]

Thanks both of you for the prompt responses.

 

I've seen Wanner referred to in other threads on the internet.

 

I think I might try a Wanner as there are plenty on evil-bay at a good price.

 

Thanks again

 

Karl

[Grease/oil Gun Recommendations?]

Having bought my Herald 1200 a couple of months back, I am in the market for a grease gun to oil the trunnions with that will not break the bank, and hopefully won't leak EP90 everywhere.

 

Can anyone suggest a good candidate?

 

Thanks

 

Karl

[Returning to the fold]

Even better - he's bought a 1200 and that doesn't have any !

 

Welcome

 

C.

Mine does have a modern fuse fitted, but only the one.

 

I think it was fitted to allow a radio to be installed, not that it's got one now, and not that I'll be replacing it anyway.

 

One of my first jobs was removing the carpets as they were faded and smelly, which revealed a number of wires which weren't connected to anything anymore. One for the aerial, another for the non-functioning reversing light which I may or may not replace with a working period item.

 

Karl

[Returning to the fold]

After a 20+ year hiatus in Herald ownership, I bought a 1968 1200 Herald in July and rejoined the TSSC.

 

Now I just have to get my head around Triumph mechanics & electrics!

 

Karl