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Bordfunker last won the day on May 28

Bordfunker had the most liked content!

About Bordfunker

  • Birthday 29/03/1971

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    Model railways and aircraft<br />
    Running<br />
    Beagles<br />
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  1. Mat, was the boot lid sprayed with the same batch of paint as the verticals? Orange peel can be down to paint being too thick, or potentially air pressure being too low, so that you’re not putting enough paint down to keep the surface ‘wet’ enough for the paint to flow. That’s about the limit of the knowledge that I can offer. Karl
  2. Pete, sorry to hear the car is getting you down. As others have already said, we have probably all been there, I know I have with my Herald, particularly when I found out just how rotten it was. At least you have a nice shiny, better than new, chassis, and no doubt a car that will drive much better as a result of it. And maybe you deserve a exotic redhead in your life! Karl
  3. After a week off from the garage last week, due to a bad back, my own fault, and ironically caused by overdoing exercises to address a stiff buttock (Don't laugh), I decided to head back into the gloom on the hottest weekend of the year! I never claimed to be bright. Now, last time I had made up a repair panel for the front face of the spare wheel well, but coming back to it after a couple of weeks, I just wasn't happy with it, and so decided to cut it out and start again. This time I split it into two sections, the outer vertical wall of the well, and then the curved portion that transitions to the flat base of the well. The first bit was easy... ....even I couldn't cock up forming that section. Which then got welded in. First tacked.... ...then seam welded. Not my neatest bit of welding, but not helped by continually bashing my head against the spare wheel bracket (At least I was wearing a welding helmet), and the fact I kept steaming up my welding helmet in the heat! The bulk of that was done Saturday afternoon, which left Sunday afternoon to tackle the difficult bit, namely the curved section, which curves across two planes. As before, I initially created the curve of the transition from the floor of the wheel well to the vertical wall with a section of scaffolding pole, leaving me with a long semi-U shaped piece of steel. This is where the shrinker/stretcher came into it's own allowing me to impart the curve across the piece of steel to create the second section of the repair panel. This meant several hours of tweaking, shrinking, then a bit of stretching, then a bit more shrinking, then a bit more tweaking to try and obtain the best fit possible. It is at this point that I understand why car bodywork repairs can be so expensive, given how time consuming it is, though I appreciate that I am a complete amateur, and therefore much, much, slower than a professional would be. Here it is tacked in... ...note a couple of very dodgy looking tacks because someone had forgotten to turn the shielding gas on! No matter as they will be ground back, and then seam welded. Here's the view from the top. As you can see I have cut out the previous repair section at the front of the well, and have a bit more tidying up to do before I do the final tacks and welding in of this portion. It's a bit annoying going back and starting again, but I am much happier with this attempt than the last, and it's a good opportunity to try and develop some metalworking skills. Karl
  4. Pete, I got mine from Frost in the UK. No makers marks on the box or the tool itself unfortunately, but there appear to be plenty similar out on the web for less than I paid. I have used Frost in the past so was happy to pay a bit more for peace of mind. Karl
  5. Mat, I have been eyeing one of these up for almost year now, and really ought to have bought it when I was doing the passenger side rear wheel arch. Pete, mine came with two sets of jaws, one for stretching, the other for shrinking, you just swap them around depending on what you need to do. It’s not very big either, and the handle comes off, so it can be tucked away without taking up too much space. Karl
  6. Mat, I know what you mean about them being 'air hungry'. I tried this with my usual skinny coil hose and it was very sluggish, but improved massively when I hooked it up directly to the big rubber hose. The new air tool isn't the only new acquisition on my part, as after much dithering and deliberating I decided to cough up and buy a shrinker/stretcher. What's one of those I hear you cry? (Alright, maybe not cry exactly) It's one of these.... Great, but what does it actually do? Essentially it does what is says, it shrinks and stretches things, like this.... Take one piece of flat steel, which was promptly folded up into an L-shape along the black line. This was then run through the jaws of the shrinker, the shiny chrome bits, which started to impart a curve like this.... You can see the jaw marks on the steel. Another couple of runs through gave me this... ....and with a final run through this. I know what you are thinking, all very interesting, but so what? Remember this? I need to sort out the outer edge of the spare wheel well, as currently it is distinctly wonky, so need to create a curved section in the horizontal plane, i.e. across the pic, and an L-shape in the vertical plane to form the back of the well. As you can see my previous efforts to achieve that were somewhat lacking, and I thought rather than spend £150+ on a new spare wheel well, I'd spend slightly less on a tool that would allow me to fix it, but which will also come in handy for a number of the repairs required on the bulkhead. That's my rationale and I'm sticking to it, and while I was at it I bought a big sheet of virgin steel to start the new panel with. Marked up ready for cutting out. Time to bend...... It's amazing how many radii perfectly match an off cut of scaffolding pole! Here the steel has been persuaded into shape with the aid of a large 'Birmingham screwdriver' over the open jaws of the vice. Overall I was quite happy with that, but did need to trim that big flange down as with hindsight, that was never going to work in the shrinker/stretcher. Long story short, half an hour with the shrinker/stretcher and a selection of hammers and pliers, and I was able to produce this.... Not perfect, but much better than what was there before. I used the back of the wheel well to help get the shape right, and this is now trimmed and tacked in, but as usual in my rush to get stuff done, I completely forgot to take any pics. Overall I'm really impressed by the new tool, even if I do have a lot to learn about how to get the best from it, it has made life a lot easier, and hopefully cheaper in the long run. Karl
  7. Sometime you just have to walk away and sleep on it. Not literally as if you slept on the part you were repairing, you would probably stick to it! Karl
  8. Is it really a month since I last posted an update? I haven't been idle, though not necessarily working on the car, as first we had Mrs B birthday, followed by a weekend away in York as a belated birthday treat for Mrs B. That was 2 out of the last 4 weekends accounted for, with no work done. So what exactly did I manage to get done in the remaining 2 weekends? Nothing exciting to be fair, just a lot of welding of panels that I had already fitted last month. Having said that, that little lot was about 5 hours worth of welding, grinding and generally cleaning up. I also took the opportunity to fit the rear over rider support tube, using my trusty piece of dowel and the quarter panel as a jig. Which left me with this little bit to fix. Not sure why I didn't sort this out earlier, but it is a relatively easy fix, just requiring a small repair patch to be made up. The patch needs to complete the lip around the boot aperture, so will need to be L-shaped in order to achieve this. Now I could try and bend it up out of one piece of steel, but it is far easier to make it out of two sections like these. Ignore the rather rough looking strip at the top, it will improve in appearance. First up tacking the boot lip strip to the rear panel piece. Which was then seam welded along the outside edge, and then cleaned up to something a little more acceptable. And punched out ready for plug welding in place. The tacks on the inside were further cleaned up after this picture, as the flange needs to be clean to accept the boot seal. Test fitted. And clamped in place ready for welding. After which I forgot to take any more pics. I did also take the opportunity to clean up some scars on the bottom of the rear wings. These were simply welded up to restore some strength. Then ground back, leaving me with this. Much neater. And finally a new addition to my arsenal... I haven't had much of a play with it yet, but it should help with cleaning up some of the more obvious welds, and there are quite a few of them! Hopefully it won't be a month before the next update. Karl
  9. Pete, that is full on weld porn there! Looks like it should be a hell of a lot stronger than standard. Karl
  10. Colin, that tub looks a million times better than the last one! I would be inclined to invest in a good quality spot weld drill, and drill out the spot welds carefully to separate the panels one by one. Try not to use a chisel as it can easily tear through the metal (Ask me how I know), particularly old rusty metal, and you’ll be wanting to re-use the panels from the convertible. Karl
  11. You are not mucking about with those chassis repairs! Really liking the reinforcements, and looking at your pics the car definitely needs them. Got me thinking about reinforcing the Herald’s chassis now! Karl
  12. This one is a long way from complete, as once the tub is complete it will be time to re-visit the welding on the chassis, before turning my attention to the front bulkhead, which makes the tub look good. So I reckon there’s at least another 3 months of welding to do, and that is without mention of the bonnet, which I know has a lot of filler in it. The bonnet however can wait until next winter. Would you have a customer in mind Colin? It does rather feel like that. I think I must have put in about 50 patches and repair panels into the tub alone so far, most of them no bigger than the palm of my hand, and quite a few considerably smaller. Karl
  13. This has been a extra long weekend for me as I had Friday off as well as today, but Friday was spent running family back and forth, youngest son to work, Mrs B to the dentists, picking up an order from Mrs B, before going back to pick up youngest from work again. Where does the time go? Saturday, a day of shopping and gardening, as well as dropping youngest son off to work again, he works in a vaccination centre, so I feel like I'm, doing my bit supporting a key worker, before picking him up again. And putting the coat rack in the hall back on the wall after pulling it down the day before. Best not to ask as I was trying to cancel the smoke alarm at the time! Sunday was more of the same, but I did manage an hour an half in the garage tidying up various bits and pieces around the edge of the boot floor, so not very exciting, but ultimately quite vital to the finished result. Oh, I also made Mrs B a planter for the garden, so quite DIY intensive this weekend. All of which meant today needed to be the day if I was going to get anything substantial done on the car this weekend. Work started pretty much where I left off yesterday, doing edgy bits, but also prepping the boot side repair panel for welding, which meant punching holes, stripping red oxide primer from areas to be welded before applying several coats of weld through zinc primer. It's important to remove all non-weld through paint from the areas to be welded as it could lead to a weak weld, or no weld at all. Talking of edgy bits I had forgotten to do a couple of plug welds on the boot floor repair section, so it was out with the spot weld clamp, pulling the two sections tightly together. Fail to do this, and the weld doesn't join the two pieces, or spreads out between the two leading to a gap. Now previously I have done plug welds on the second lowest setting on my welder, which produces a nice strong join, but as you have seen from my previous efforts, can lead to a rivet like weld. This time I increased the power by 50%, and wound back the wire speed a bit, which no only reduces the amount of metal going into the weld, but also reduces the amperage supplied at the arc. The result was a much flatter weld, but still plenty strong, which should make clean up a little faster, you can see the result here at the bottom of the picture. Much neater. Generally, ignore the weld above it! Another edgy bit requiring attention was the back of the boot corner reinforcement section, which I had hacked about previously. All I did here was clamp a copper block behind the section to be welded, leaving me with a nice clean back to the weld, and then run weld over the top. No need for anything special here, just make sure the weld is solid, before cleaning it up with a flap disc, leaving a nice tidy repair. All that then got a coat of zinc primer for protection, after which all the edgy bits were finally complete. A test fit of the repair panel did however show up a minor issue. Now I am guessing that this is as a result of me chopping the boot corner reinforcement panel about to fit the lower repair section. Comparison with the driver's side showed that it was only about 2mm lower than that side, so rather than stress about it, I decided to file a small section out of the top of the aperture, that would be the black bit in the picture above. Not the neatest, but nobody is ever going to see it, and it at least now aligns with the out rider support bolt. As per the driver's side the repair panel needed a bit of tweaking to obtain a decent fit, which meant making a series of cuts to allow the flange to follow the contour of the underlying panel to which it was about to be joined. You can see in the picture above where I have cut the flange away from the repair section, welding the flange to the boot floor, before grinding back the raised edge so that it was flush with the flange section, then welding it all together. But I'm jumping ahead here as there was about an hour of 'fitting and fettling' required first, adjusting the fit, and using self-tappers to hold the panel in position, along with lots of clamps. It looks like there is a washer around each hole in the pic above, but it's just just where I have used a small rotary brush in a cordless drill, to take everything back to bare metal around each plug welding site. I probably don't need to do this with a decent weld through primer, however having had a bad experience with cheap weld through primer in the past, I'm not taking any chances. You can see how the self-tappers pull the two panels together, keeping everything where it needs to be for welding. Time to get welding then.... You can see my plug welds are flatter, more like a chocolate button now, than a rivet from the Titanic. You can also see where the flanges need to be welded to the edge of the repair panel, but only once the edges have been ground down with a 40 grit flap disc. All of this will be ground back to leave a nice neat edge, but that's a job for another day. I also started on welding up the boot side panel to wheel arch joint, but ran out of time this afternoon. Still a fair bit of welding and clean up required, but really pleased that the boot side repair panel is now in place, and we are drawing close to the point where the last welding left on the tub will be the spare wheel well. However the omens for progress are not good next week, as Saturday is the Bicester Heritage Scramble!, the first I have been to in about 18 months, and Sunday is Mrs B's birthday, so the chances of garage time are slim to none. Karl
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