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Black Cat

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Everything posted by Black Cat

  1. The hose former for the bottom hose may be an option to keep it away from the engine mount. Might try a local welding company to see what they will charge me to alter the two pipes first, if it’s not too expensive my just bite the bullet and do that.
  2. Hi, There must be many of us who have fitted a new wide aluminium radiator to our Triumphs, mine was acquired from Germany on eBay. Today I fired up my Spitfire for the first time in over two years after carrying out a nut and bolt rebuild. Everything was going fine, the engine was slowly coming up to temperature and I was just about to adjust the carburetors when all of a sudden the bottom hose blew off the water pump, steam and water went everywhere, luckily no one was injured. When fitting the new radiator I managed to utilise the old radiator top and bottom hoses as they were both in very good condition, the top hose seems to have made a good connection albeit the radiator pipe and the thermostat housing didn’t line up very well and the bottom hose had a tendency to touch one of the engine mounts but with a little bit of pushing and pulling I managed to stretch the bottom hose so it cleared the engine mount by about 12mm which at the time I was quite pleased with, the only problem was it was not on the water pump as far as it should have been and as a result when the water was coming up to pressure the bottom hose blew off. Now my question is, is there any more suitable top and bottom hoses available which others have used, maybe from another system off another car or are there any manufactured specify for this type of radiator for the 1500 Spitfire I’m hoping the answer is not to have the radiator connections re-positioned. The other option is to refit the factory fitted one which I still have. Many thanks
  3. Right, moved the earth cable to the spare spade connector on the side of the bulb holder and the rear light now works, the only issue is it is not quite as bright as the other rear light, did try switching the bulbs over but still not as bright. Also left the other earth cable in place but no better. I have a very good earth on the body of the car so don't think that is the problem. Could it still be an issue with the bulb holder, I have one on order so will change it next week or could there be another problem? PS. just had another look at my photo above, could be the terminal needs a good clean.
  4. I'll add a second earth cable tomorrow and let you know how it goes.
  5. The black cable with the blue connector is the earth which is on the side of the light housing, not the holder, are you saying that there should also be an earth going to the spare connector, if that is the case why did the other bulb holder work when I replaced it with the wiring just as it is? I know the bulb holders are not great for earthing but these ones are quite tight and do get a good earth.
  6. Thanks Mathew, not going to Duxford but have ordered a new one from Moss so should be with me in a day or two.
  7. The other bulb connector doesn’t have the additional connect on the side so not sure what it actually dose.
  8. Just swapped the bulb holders round and it worked fine so looks like a new bulb holder is required.
  9. I was wondering if it could be the bulb holder, might try and swap them round and see if it will work.
  10. Hi, Now coming to the closing stages of my re-build, currently trying to sort out a few electrical issues. The one I'm having a problem with at the moment is the rear offside brake/stop light. I have replaced all my bulbs with LED’s and have checked they are all working, I seem to be getting a good power supply to the rear light cluster but the offside stop/tail light don’t seem to want to work, nearside works fine. I think I have reconnected all the cables in the correct position but I would be grateful if someone could confirm from the attached picture if my wiring is correct. There is one terminal on the right which I haven't used, I suspect there should be a cable connected to this terminal but which one I’m not sure, If anybody can shine some light or perhaps a photo I would be most grateful.
  11. Badwolf, had a look at your build diary and must say your hardtop was in a sorry state. Mine only had to have some minor welding done to the bottom ends where they sit on the B post and the front lip which I'm currently working on. Have made some progress on the front lip. firstly, using a flap wheel I ground off the front lip which exposed the extent of the rust under the lip, cleaned off the rust with the flap wheel and treated the metal with rust inhibitor then primed the affected area, brought some stainless steel 'U' section the exact size to fit back over the front edge, the only problem is the stainless steel 'U' section wont conform to the shape of the front edge of the roof, (haven't got the equipment to stretch or shrink metal sections) no problem, did try heating up a small length to see if it would bend to suit but no luck there, so decided to cut some slots in the 'U' section and bend it to the shape, the idea being the slots can be filled when the 'U' section is fixed into place then painted, this worked fine and when I was happy with the fit, clamped it in place and stuck it on with some Tiger seal. There are however some very minor areas on the ends where the bend is tightest which will require some slight grinding to ensure the profile is smooth to the touch but to the naked eye you would hardly notice it.
  12. Yare, did give that a thought but I'll bend the overlap back first and see how that goes.
  13. Thanks gents. The reason I asked is water has got under the lip and it has rusted and pushed the overlap up which in turn lets in more water. I could seal it but I need to clean off the rust and treat the affected areas first. Didn't realise the fold was spot welded so will need to find the welds and then fold the overlap back to clean and treat the rust. Not looking forward to folding open, any tips would be appreciated.
  14. Hi, Is the front lip of the hardtop for the 1500 Spitfire removable or does it form a part of the roof? If it is removable can you still buy the part. I know the GT6 has a repair section and it seems the lip is, or was available and if it can be sourced will it fit the 1500 and who might have one? The GT6 part number is 814628 but is no longer available from Rimmer. Many thanks
  15. Hi, I’m about to replace the fuse box in my 1977 Triumph Spitfire and may need to extent some of the cables which go into the box, Top fuse 1. Green for: - Wiper switch, Heater fan & Stop lamp switch 2. White for: - Ignition Middle fuse 1. Red/green for: - headlamp switch 2. Red for: - Instrument panel, Indicators, Brake, Map, Side light & No. plate Bottom fuse 1. Brown for: - Alternator 2. Purple for: - Dip flasher switch, Horn relay, Boot light, Door light & Seat belt Firstly is the above correct and secondly what size is this cable, is it all 35amp as it’s a lot larger than the rest of the loom? Many thanks
  16. Did take some photos and think I may now have resolved the issue. Black goes at 1-o-clock on the heater fan motor, the green/grey one goes to the slid control of the heater and the other green one goes to the heater fan motor at 7-o-clock. I did have the green/grey connected to the heater fan and the green one connected to the slid control but have now switched them round. Hopefully it will work but wont know for a while until I get the rest of the wiring connected.
  17. Just did a little further investigation, found a home for the black earth at about 1-o-clock in a recess on the heater motor and it looks like the green/grey wire may well be connected to the heater motor at about 7-o-clock. Would appreciate somebody confirming I have them in the right place. Regards
  18. Hi, Refitting the dash board after a two year rebuild, took loads of photos when I striped the car down but as always, not enough. Having trouble finding a home for the black wire and a green and white wire (could be grey) from the heater motor. The black should be an earth but where does this plug into and where does the green and white wire go. Both wires have female connectors. Many thanks
  19. Thanks Pete, wasn’t quite sure if there was any other gaiter but have fitted it all together now and the flat gaiter with the sleeve fits nicely around the ball of the gear stick and seems to seal any gaps.
  20. Hi, I have a ‘J’ type overdrive gearbox fitted in my 1977 1500 Triumph Spitfire. I’m not sure if I have a part missing, I have a flat gaiter with a sleeve which slips around the gear stick and sits on the tunnel and the retaining plate which secures the gaiter to the tunnel. I’m fitting new carpets and the gearbox carpet has a built in leather like gaiter. My question is, is there a rubber gaiter which slides over the gear stick and is fixed to the retaining plate on the tunnel?
  21. No oil leaks yet but the engine has't been put under any real strain yet. might be a different story in a few weeks time.
  22. Its yet to go on the road. Hope to have it on the road this summer. Lucky you being at Hockenheim. Bugger me, wondered why it was so noise.
  23. Just had the geometry set up on my Triumph Spitfire 1500 by a great little garage in Havehill, Suffolk. They have the correct Hunter equipment and Brian at BC Cars Motorsport was so precise in the process. He also checked all the bolts on the suspension at the same time and adjusted the handbrake and also replaced the front ball joints for me with ones which had grease nipples. Can’t recommend him enough. Check out his website at https:/www.bccarsmotorsport.co.uk
  24. There are six Triumphs for sale at Mathewsons auction on 24th April 2021. 3 Spitfires 1 Stag 1 TR6 1 TR4 Each one has a good video tour around the car so you can see what you are bidding on if you can't get there to view.
  25. Thanks DanMi, was looking for some assurance that this was OK.
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