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Thanks all. Chrishawley, will give your suggestion a go. The circuit diagram shows wires only for the horn connection, no sign of a relay. A question - why would you use a relay to operate horns when it just needs some cableing?

No, not that I can see.

Just to continue of the theme of horns not working. I have a Mk2 Vitesse. To state the obvious, it has 2 horns and let me call them horn 1 and horn 2. If I press the horn button with both horns connected I just get a clicking sound . If I disconnect horn 1 and press the button then horn 2 sounds, conversly if I disconnect horn 2 and press the button then horn 1 sounds. ? Any ideas or thoughts, please.

Interesting. How did we go from 'Strange number' to chat about Fiona Richmond. Am signing off now and thanks for the help on the SNq.

Interesting comment Pete, a good way of keeping a track on how many each person produced, or is that being a bit unfair. Also in away it would indicate, in another way, how many cars, in this case Vitesse, were manufactured? I wonder where 00001 is now.

Many thanks for the comments. Had tried the sanding but that seemed to be a hard and long process. Taken by the use of an heat gun but with caution as advised. I had not realised or even thought that the visible part was veneered. Iain S

On the continuing saga of sorting out and making good my Mk2 Vitesse Convertible. I have removed the wood strips along the top of the doors as the lacquer is all cracked and falling off and noted the same number in the hidden side of the wood panel. See attached pics. My first thought - is it a part number or is it car number forty one thousand, five hundred and twenty six. :) But on a more serious note. What is the best way to remove the lacquer without spoiling the wood and then prepping the surface before applying fresh lacquer? I understand that acrylic lacquer or melamine lacquer are recommended for best results. Iain S

Triumph Vitesse Mk2 convertible. The seal between the prop shaft and the gearbox case/rear extension is leaking oil onto the exhaust, creating a good smoke screen. Is it easy to replace this seal and, I think while at it, the bearing? Does the prop shaft have to be disconnected and some how moved towards the rear to create space to work? All hints will be greatly appreciated. Whether 'yes easy to do or what ever you do don't'

Oh yes, having a long careful web search, have got prices from six sites so far. Prices seem to go from about £330 to £148. As I am on the Club site, had a look in the shop to see if Vitesse carpets were available - would appear that they are not as no colour swatches are available but are for other models. 🤨

Many thanks for all the comments, it seems like the choice is easy - moulded. The price I obtained was from Rimmers, had a look at other suggestions found that Rimmers shewed what you got as a complete set where the others had all the bits marked separately, will have to do a bit more pricing research.

Following on from the need to replace carpets but doing it oneself. Putting aside the fair difference in cost, what are the pros and cons for a "moulded carpet" against a "stitched carpet"? I notice that they comes in several pieces - do they need to be joined using glue or thread or fitted as supplied? My Vitesse needs new as the previous were very rotten and mouldy, I see that there is a certain company that sells both types.

HI both. Thanks for the info. The pic is just what I wanted.

Doing some work in and around the boot. Removed the lid and support bracket and now ready to be refitted but failed to take a pic of how the lower linkage goes together. Have tried many combinations but nothing works smoothly. Would anyone have or could provide a pic, please.

Many thanks for all the comments. The plan will be to fit the carpet, with a very hot needle pierce a hole thru from the underside, cut four rectangles in the carpet so that they fits around the fixtures on the floor pan, fit the seats. Get an MOT and back on the road 😀

🙂

I think the needle through the carpet from below and then either a box cutter or stanley knife to open the hole. Like the comment to fix the two front bolts and then locate the rear holes, which are I think closed on the underside. Thank you for suggestions. Iain

Peter. Just shows what a small world we ive in. My father had been posted to Australia by Shell and I was born in the maternity hopsital in Lewisham Road, City of Prahran. He was then moved to Trinidad from 1939 to '45 and finally back to the UK, where I have lived ever since. Came to Australia about 25 years ago for a nice long holiday - Melbourne, Sydney, Cairns, dived on the Great Barrier Reef brilliant, walked up Uluru before it was stopped what a place, then to Perth. Thanks everyone. Nice to chat. Iain

1970 Vitesse 2L Convertible I will be fitting a new carpet soon and wondered what is the best way to ensure that the holes for the bolts on the seat runners are in the right place or does the carpet come with holes already there? At the moment the only solution I can think of is it fit the carpet, ram needles through the captive nuts from the underside but.. Someone did suggest making a template or possibly two and use them to create the holes from the inside. As I presume the holes are not already cut, what would be the best way to creat them - drill, very hot soldering iron, force the bolts through the material. Any ideas would be greatfully received.

Many thanks for the comments. Pete - up to now have not considered fabricating something as I would like to keep the whole, the car that is, as original as possible. The underlying nag would be that once a non-standard bit is fitted could it be the slippery slope to other non-standard bits. But if I can not find one your suggestion will be well taken. I do wonder if the extra bracket thing which is not rusted is really required, it does not seem to have a purpose unless the rotted part flexes when the boot is opened or closed and it presses against the boot to stop the flexing. (That was abit long winded). Will also apply some form of seal with the bolts. Colin - your pic with the two holes is interesting as it would appear that the left hand hole has suffered damage and has had to be remade just like mine. Managed to get it repaired with a piece of metal welded in and the hole with counter sink created. Obtained replacement screws from an excellent shop in Camberely as the thread on the originals had become damaged. Dick - I will email Spitbitz, thanks for that. Peter - How is Melbourne - city of my birth sometime ago 🙃 As you say the steel would have to be a thicker gauge as the present one is quite thin and relies on the shaped profile for strength. Iain

Vitesse Mk2 1970. The bracket that creates the link between the Boot Lid Stay and the Boot Lid has rotted away as can be seen. Did investigate having an extension welded to the right of the hole surrounded by the rust but advised by the mechanic I use for servicing that the metal is so thin that it would likely burn away. Any ideas where I may be able to find a new or even second hand one in good comdition? The interesting thing is - how did it rot away when it is on the up side of the boot lid. Have tried R...s but they appear not to stock that item. Shame that we cannot visit Breakers Yards anymore, used to be intresting wandering, looking and rummaging.

Thanks all for your advice, had a look at the rivenuts website. I only need one plus the cost of the tool to compress. The long bolt and large washer is more and more appealing.

I think I managed to create some of the confusion. The pic with the broken metal is the problem. I do have the cage nut, well several, as all four cage nuts need to be changed. This has the potential to turn into a long and interesting/confusing/why question! I had a chat with the car mechanic who looks after my usual car, not that the Vitesse is unusual, and he offered the opinion that to make a new floor bracket would be very expensive and suggested the idea of cutting out a replacement from a scrapped Vitesse that might be in a breakers yard, but I am warming to the suggestion from Pete to use a long bolt and large washer. Thanks for the ideas

a rear attachment point for the passenger seat on my Vitesse has corroded to the point that the nut etc. to take the retaining bolt has come adrift. It is likely to require the removal of some of the floor pan and then a new/replacement part welded back. Anyone know of a source for the attachment that holds the nut?

Gents Thanks for all the advice, a lot to work through and consider the best route. Paul - yes and no, the thread is all gone. Thanks for the website for the stubb bit Dave - note your comment on over sizing the bolt Iain

Like the idea of a self tap bolt BUT I assume the bolt will be steel and then being forced, to a certain extent, into aluminium the two different metals are very likely to weld togther and difficult to remove at a later date? Taping an 8mm new tthread might be better. Thanks for the comments, though. Iain