Josef
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Posts posted by Josef
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Four figures is steep…
The biggest thing to get acquainted with will be measuring all the components and recognising what wear looks like. The components in question are things like thrust washers and gear bushings which won’t come in a rebuild kit. Having a hydraulic press will make your life easier but is not absolutely essential. There’s people on here who have had new synchro rings that’re not round. The County brand one I had from Paddocks in the last year or two was fine though and still running happily.
I found the linked video series helpful for giving me a view of what to expect. The guy does make a mistake or two though (such as reusing the circlip on the front of the mainshaft) so don’t take it as gospel.
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Huh. I was wondering if I’d imagined the CNC version, or if it was out of production… I’ve two distorted and stripped ally ones and need a replacement. So at a tenner over the original style one I know what I’ll be getting!
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Using a soldering iron to melt holes through the carpet makes the seats much easier to fit, and avoids bits of carpet getting in to the nuts/bolts!
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I’d want to see the panel in the flesh next to the (remains of) an original bit before making any judgement. Probably as would anyone else who’d do the job. That whole area was a big job to repair and the shapes are not as simple as in that panel in the photo.
The one in-house made panel from said supplier I bought I never used as it really wasn’t a good shape, I preferred to make my own.
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4 hours ago, Colin Lindsay said:
So that explains the differing shape of the rear bodyshell as well? Excellent. That solves that!
Looks like MG montego wheels on John's version?
Ahh yeah. The Escorts had something rather similar but I think you’re right.
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The rear looks like a normal Equipe to me (but I don’t think I’ve ever seen one in real life so I’m no expert!) The wheels look like Escort, Mk3 ish?
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14 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said:
Is he the one that is adamant you can use metric bolts in any kind of captive nut, so long as you turn them hard enough?
That was one of the previous owners of my Spitfire :S
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9 hours ago, Colin Lindsay said:
You cannot fit the longer type with no spacer
Well, you can. One of our local members managed to do so and it ran, till the arm snapped off…
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Best is obviously subjective, but I think your easiest option will be to match a known 1147 engine spec, Herald or early Spitfire. That way you’re working with some variation of a standard setup and can buy carb needles etc to suit that known application. Going off that track means you’re more likely to have to do your own research and experimentation. Though perhaps taking inspiration from the Standard Triumph tuning options or SAH or other period performance retailers could be an idea if you want something extra.
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http://www.team.net/www/triumph/trprefix.html
https://www.teglerizer.com/triumphstuff/spit_and_gt6_specs.htmNone of those are a ‘normal’ Triumph engine number (see the info in the links above). But I would not worry. Most likely the DVLA will not care in the slightest what Triumph did or did not use as engine numbers. They ignored my attempt at correcting the 0 to an O on my Spitfire’s commission number… The paperwork only needs to show a unique ID, which yours is for sure.
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Here’s some approximate measurements. Mine are redrilled after repair though so match up to Jon’s original ones if that concerns you! This door shell is the one I have to replace the previous reskinned door which has rotted mostly cause the place that did it (prior to my ownership) didn’t reinstate the drain holes…
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I’d guess based on Kevin’s info that this means the block was overhauled, but the engine was not built up by Triumph/Leyland/Rover. So it was never stamped with a new engine number, but the block was somehow sold as a spare part.
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Why do you want to fit the Spitfire gearbox? I think the Standard 8s had all alloy ones? So you’re adding a fair bit of weight if you drop in a cast iron Spitfire one. If Colin is correct (and he probably is!) then swapping the internals might be an option if there is something up with the original/existing one?
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Great looking Herald! Welcome aboard. Lack of power when the load increases is making me think exhaust manifold leak. Worth a quick check with the ‘stick a bit of hose in your ear and use it like a stethoscope’ trick.
I’d generally agree with the comments saying don’t start buying stuff just drive it first, but I would recommend changing all rubber fuel lines for genuine ethanol proof ones unless you can be certain this has already been done.
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12 hours ago, DanMi said:
any second hand part dealer eg spitfire graveyard spitbitz etc will supply a used one often easier than getting the bolts out. spitfire herald etc are all the same
I’d agree, there’s even one on eBay right now for £30 that’s already been cleaned up, slap some paint on and you’ll be done! https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/285517415563?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=XSTcghsGTcO&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=en_MztWYTyu&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
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Oh so that’s how the accelerator pedal was originally fitted. I had mine bolted on top of the carpet till recently and have been wondering how to put it back. And wondering if I should shell out and replace the non moulded carpets that I’ve never been happy with…
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2 hours ago, Iain T said:
If the door was a clock face I want to rotate clockwise a couple of minutes and vertically up 2-3mm. The door doesn't need to move outward.
Ah, OK I misunderstood the plane you were wanting to move the door in. You should be able to loosen one hinge at a time and kind of walk the door up. If you’ve any wear at all in the hinge you need to set it a bit higher than you want to compensate for the drop. You shouldn’t have too much trouble by yourself, though it is one of those “simple” jobs that can take a whole day of fiddling!
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47 minutes ago, Iain T said:
the nearside bottom hinge being shimmed to rotate the angle so the rear top of the drop glass is more parallel with the roof.
There is adjustment in the hinge-to-door bolts as well as the hinge-to-bulkhead. Sounds like you are wanting to move the bottom of the door outboard a little bit? That should be do-able without shims.
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I’ve just had to completely strip my Herald’s engine (complications with custom thrust washers…), which best guess is 20-30k miles post previous rebuild, most stuff is turning out to be pretty unworn thankfully, but my rockers and rocker shaft are all pretty knackered. So worth a check even if you think wear is unlikely.
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12 hours ago, piran said:
work out the size of the bolts
5/16” x 1” and. 5/16” x 1 3/4” UNF https://www.canleyclassics.com/?catalogue=triumph-herald-13/60&diagram=triumph-herald-13/60-water-pump-assembly
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Just now, nicrguy1966 said:
Enough grazed knuckles for today. I'm happy with the progress I've made.
If there's a special trick to removing the Woodruff key, please let me know. Does it just slide forwards towards the front of the car, or does it also need to be lifted at the same time, or some other secret maneuver?
I'll let it soak in WD40 and try again tomorrow.
See one post above
I guess I must’ve hit send while you were still typing yourself!
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Take a brass drift and hammer on one end of the woodruff key. They’re half moon shaped so that’ll push one end down and the other up.
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I’d use a reducer. You don’t want a loose fuel pipe where you’re relying on squashing it together with a hose clamp, and you don’t want to force a smaller hose over a larger diameter pipe (it’ll be a struggle, and you then risk a split hose somewhere down the line).
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I think
1 hour ago, johny said:On my Vitesse they are welded with no adjustment possible☹️
I think Colin may be thinking Herald thoughts where the rad is mounted to the engine bay valances? Which I think is not the case for the Vitesse?
I guess I must’ve hit send while you were still typing yourself!
Triumph Vitesse gearbox rebuild time?
in Gearbox & Overdrive
Posted
Yes, and if you do buy used boxes don’t over pay, especially for an ‘overdrive’ one. Everything but the mainshaft is the same. Also be aware that some gearbox casings are interchangeable, so something that purports to be a Vitesse box has a chance of no longer being one!