Josef
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Posts posted by Josef
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The standard thrust washer measures as still in spec which suggests all the fairly excessive wear has all come from this custom part. Too soft a material was used perhaps? I figure I’ll have to find an actual engineering shop to have a word with before doing anything else.
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Suppose I could find or make a replacement for the previous custom thrust washer. Unsure where I’d start though…
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The recess on the outer face of the block though is a larger diameter than a normal thrust washer, approximately the same diameter as the end of the crankshaft. So I do still suspect the block has been machined out to compensate for some damage.
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Better photo of the thrusts. One standard thickness. The other very much not!
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So, after finally getting hold of an engine stand (had two incomplete ones from SGS, gave up and bought another Draper branded one which is the same thing with different colour paint but importantly came with all the parts). I’ve been able to look at the Herald’s 1.7mm crankshaft end float… Pretty sure my block has been damaged and saved in the past. The outer thrust washer is a chunk of solid bronze and two small hex head bolts have been fitted to the bearing cap in order to hold this DIY thrust washer in place. I’m guessing the crank has gone all the way through a thrust to the block at some point… Feeling like I’ll need another engine. Annoying as this is the car’s original.
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That’s
1 hour ago, MattE said:Rimmer Bros are doing quite well out to me
Just to note other, often more reasonably priced, suppliers are available… Canley Classics, TD Fitchett, James Paddock, to name a few. For used parts the few I’ve mentioned sometimes have some, the breakers Spitbitz and Spitfire Graveyard are good go-tos, Wins International often have used spares listed too. Then of course there’s eBay.
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29 minutes ago, MattE said:
This should be, right to left, choke, heater valve, heater blower, washer fluid (originally a manual pump but I’d take a guess someone has fitted an electric one), wipers. Obviously you can do what you like, but screen washers are legally required so you’ll need them somewhere. What steering wheel do you have? Some aftermarket ones lack a horn push.
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3 hours ago, johny said:
quite possibly is replaced by a purple wire from the fuse box to the horn relay as per later models.
This then makes me suspicious that perhaps the OP has not received the correct loom…
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17 hours ago, Mack said:
The car started but wouldn't idol without the choke and would falter when trying to rev it.
Unless it’s a fairly hot day, this is normal. The choke is there to compensate for the fact the engine is cold. So it’s still needed until the engine can run normally without it. You will have to learn what your car needs though.
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37 minutes ago, cliff.b said:
Just checked and my commission number is well in the middle of other 78 cars so that would be right. The engine number has a prefix of DM and a suffix of ESS which I believe means it was a factory exchange unit.
Interesting. DM was an export only Dolly 1500 block originally! https://www.teglerizer.com/triumphstuff/spit_and_gt6_specs.htm I guess it was shipped back as an exchange or something.
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2 hours ago, cliff.b said:
Unless mine was made in 77 and hung around for a while before being registered.
You can get an idea of manufacture date of your car (and engine) by comparing the commission number with other examples. An original engine is usually close ish in number to the commission number, within a few thousand or so.
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2 hours ago, cliff.b said:
Any idea if the springs have any identification marks on them? The comments I read about the different needles in later Spits also said the springs were different. Looking at my carbs, there are some slight differences and I'm not 100% convinced I have a matching pair.
I think springs were originally colour coded. But I’m not certain.
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The needles are marked. In tiny letters! So you should be able to check if you have them out again.
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Ah ok, when you were asking about repair sections for the upper a post, that made me think you were going to remove much more metal!
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1 hour ago, Paul H said:
I’ve used these screw covers sprayed black
You should also be able to buy something like this in black if you want, sold for numberplate fixings.
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See page 1
for the a post repair. I think I still have the hammer form if a picture of that would help.
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There is not a repair section for the upper a post. I suggest any cuts you do carefully and save as much of it as you can. But it’s not a terrible piece to make, that was one of the first ever patches I made for my Spitfire. I made a pretty crude wooden hammer form for the square hole, otherwise it’s just a few bends.
I did initially replace this section from the inside. It was extremely difficult as that footwell is smaaaallll! I would strongly recommend you remove the gearbox (and probably engine) so you can squeeze up between the chassis rails. Otherwise you’ll struggle to get the forward facing part of that a post welded back on. I was working through a hole where the floor should be, and it was very awkward. -
The headlamp needs to sit much further in to the bowl. Those springs on the adjusters look odd, but may just be a different design to the original style ones. Either way they need screwing in a fair bit I’d say!
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It’s unlikely you’ll break the weld, the thinner sheet metal would go first (but I don’t think you’re in danger of that either!) I’d give planishing a go to get the worst out.
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Looking very good! How does it feel, looks like you’ve avoided major distortion?
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Yes, unplug the column switch wiring, unbolt the coupling near the bulkhead that holds the steering shaft inside the car to the one that projects into the engine bay, the U shape mount just next to that, then the mount just below the dash. Then you can take the wheel, inner and outer column out as one unit.
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Any sort of closed cell foam will do for the spacers. I’ve used pipe lagging for the round ones as it obviously comes in that shape. I don’t think the tunnel needs to come out, unless the heater box is considerably larger than the ones in the early Spitfires. Can’t comment on the internals I’m afraid as I’ve never looked at one of these.
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On 04/09/2023 at 21:23, Richeee said:
No radio now but at some point will connect the original single speaker. Can i just connnect the left and right conectors together and then connect the original speaker or is it a bit more awkward than that.?
I think you can, but are at risk of damaging either the stereo or speakers depending on the exact properties of both. Try searching up how to wire a mono switch for an amplifier for some ideas (this is something I could probably figure out if I was doing it myself, fraid I might not be much use giving more advice on it from afar though!)
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19 hours ago, johny said:
The worst thing about using metric nuts and bolts on our cars is that you then need to use a mixture of imperial and metric spanners or, what is more common, use the wrong one and start rounding heads☹️
Well, I’d say the really worst thing about metric bolts on a Triumph is a DPO forcing them into UNF threaded holes… I’m still finding these on my Spitfire!
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GE Engine Number Suffix Query
in Engine
Posted
Some thread necromancy here… Just been looking at my 13/60’s engine number and wondering about the A at the end. GE—-HEA is clearly the original stamping on the block. But the A is missing on both my V5 and heritage certificate! The engine is the original, it’s a home market car supplied to a dealer in Chichester and I got the DVLA history before that became verboten, so know it’s not had a sneaky trip to Australia