Josef
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Posts posted by Josef
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The hoot retainer bit that bolts to the rear deck should be glued to the hood, there’s a flap which it’ll clamp down on when bolted down. Then it should have three (I think, there will be the right number of holes in the metal) poppers to attach the tonneau / hood bag fitted through the hood material and the metal.
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I checked my small collection of misc Stanpart/Unipart bags of clips. No joy I’m afraid. Might be one of those times where calling Fitchetts to see if you get lucky and they’ve got some squirreled away would be worth it.
Great to see the roof on though! -
On 08/04/2024 at 13:08, SpitfireGeorge said:
My stop pin has a flat along one side, is this to allow it to run under the stop plate when selecting reverse gear?
This is wear, it should be round. They were NLA the last time I looked, but I turned down a bolt as a replacement. If you’ve not got a metal lathe you could probably start with a cut down stud, or longer bolt, so you get a non threaded section. Though I think the non threaded bit needs to be narrower than the nominal threaded diameter.
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I had a NOS rear overrider in a Leyland box with a 1981 pick date. I’ve also got some Rover branded Spitfire sills stickered with the green and blue striped logo, and the one I fitted on my Spitfire passenger side had a Rover ship hologram logo so that must be mid to late 90s. So clearly new parts were being produced for some time after the small chassis Triumphs had ceased production, and ten to fifteen years was the expected lifetime of the cars so it’s reasonable to expect the manufacturer to keep producing a full range of spares for that sort of time period.
Anyway, NOS nerdery aside, great to see the progress Colin!
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3 hours ago, trigolf said:
MGB ?
That looks like it might be the one from other pictures I can find. Thanks!
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Got this in a lot of mostly Spitfire parts last year. It’s not GT6, and it doesn’t look like Stag, Dolomite, 2000 to me. Anyone got a suggestion!?
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What you describe probably means something is worn out in the ball/cup/spring setup that the lever pivots on. There’s no way of adjusting anything higher or lower.
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https://www.replacementkeys.co.uk/strebor-ss-series-keys.html plenty of places they’re available new (they’re used for all sorts, from filing cabinets to cars!) that’s just one example.
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@martyn wright for your boot handle, take it off the car and look at the square shank that projects in to the actual latch mechanism. There most likely will be a number stamped on it. If it has a two letter prefix then that’s your full key number and you can get one cut to pattern. If it’s just three numbers then it will be an FS or FP series key. The number ranges of those key types don’t overlap so you can look which one has the appropriate number in it and get a key cut. It’ll cost £2-5 ish. Provided the lock has not been re-keyed, which I’d say is less likely given it came without one!
For what it’s worth the lock handle is the same as the roundtail Spit, Sunbeam Alpine, TRs etc, so the one from Moss will be right if you want to go that route.
It’s also easy enough to strip the barrel out and fully replace that (£18 ish from Canley’s). Pretty sure the replacement barrels are only for FP/FS type locks though, and you can’t swap barrels with a non FP/FS handle. Or alternatively re-key your existing barrel to match one you already have.
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5 hours ago, Colin Lindsay said:
There's also a company called 'Chromeworld' selling what I presume are rechromed versions, but the wording of the ad "Real nice" puts me off.
I’ve bought parts from them. Chrome is generally good, the condition/shape of the part they started with, not always so…
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Chances of finding good rear overriders for less than a new one are very low. I got lucky a few months back and got a NOS one on eBay but I paid not far off brand new. The new new one I have from Fitchetts via the club shop appears to be holding up well (unlike the Bastuck Spitfire rear bumper…)
I have a box of boot handles, so can probably find you a reasonable one, but if you’re looking for perfect chrome you’ll need to have it chromed or buy new (chrome on my 15 year old ‘new’ handle has also survived well). I’ve also got some front overriders I was intending to take to the next Autojumble, but they’re not in the Very Good category!
If the lack of working key is the only problem with your existing handle I (and others!) can talk you through dealing with that.
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On 01/04/2024 at 20:15, mcevedy said:
Just to say that I am finding this thread a wonderful read - makes me remember doing odd things to my car over the years - the fuel sender was a complete pain - has taken me 25 years to get it to read in a way that is slightly useful! Impressed you fit in though - I am just over 6'1" and have the seat right back and just fit - definitely better with the roof down though and extra inch of height on the windscreen would be nice functionally if not aesthetically! Not had the car out this year yet - but nearly yesterday - today has been a wash out though. Mine is completely non standard but is the way I like it!
Good excuse to get the car out next Sunday, it’s the North East area meet!
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I’m afraid there’s no quick and easy solution to rusty looking bits… You could give the water pump there a coat of hammerite or similar direct to rust paint which’d hide the rust for a few years, easiest done with it removed though at which point it’d be easy enough to clean it and paint it properly! The edge of the head there maybe you could improve with a wire brush/wire wool and a bit of oil. Demonstrates you’re not leaking oil from the rocker cover though!
My personal opinion is just drive it! Then when you have to remove something take the chance to give it a good clean up and paint. Otherwise you might find you’ve suddenly got a pile of car parts in boxes rather than a car you can enjoy driving around
My Herald’s engine bay looks quite pretty now, but that’s happened incrementally over 16ish years of ownership.
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11 hours ago, Pettifordo said:
attach the door window seals with it in place 👍
You have to do this anyway, with the glass wound down as far as it’ll go. I’ve got my seal clip fitting tool wrapped in hockey tape to minimise risk of glass damage. Also if you’ve not bought the clip fitting tool yet, don’t! It’s only a bent bit of maybe 1.5mm steel, you must have some scraps kicking around and be able to save yourself £10-15 or whatever daft price they’re sold for…
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No! If you feed your device 12V when it is expecting 5V it will not be very happy…
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Was just stripping down a 16ACR to rebuild, using the press to remove the front bearing, and the case cracked. Perhaps I should’ve been supporting it differently, but too late now… Anyone have a spare I can cannibalise, or indeed a known good one? There’s a couple on eBay, relatively expensive though so by the time I’d bought one of them plus parts it’d be in the territory of a new replacement…
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It goes on the hood header rail, rivets through the channel, hood fabric then the frame itself. Do you have the early (Herald style) or late (square tail style) hood catches? I imagine the former if you were looking for a continuous seal channel? I’ll post a photo of mine later when I can get out in the garage.
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29 minutes ago, DaveH said:
What have I done?! 😂
You’ll really wonder that when you’ve got a couple more
Totally not speaking from experience…
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On 20/02/2024 at 19:44, DaveH said:
Happy to now be a proper member, just secured my Mk3 Spit & boost the Essex presence by +1 😁
Now just have to collect & plan the 240 mile drive home with it. That could be a fun / interesting shakedown drive!
Royal blue mk3s are the best kind of Spitfire, I might be slightly biased though
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The seam cover should be DIY-able (two strips of steel, tack either side of the seam, weld the corner, careful grinding / dressing). Don’t expect you'd be able to salvage that part from a donor. How bad is the roof?
Worth asking the usual suspect breakers (Spitfire Graveyard, Spitbitz) for a donor, even if they’ve only got a section less bad than yours it might help.
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I’ve wondered about trying something like this https://cjautosheywood.co.uk/product/visbella-leather-repair-kit-c117/ on my Herald dash. Not got round to it, and in some ways I like the little nicks as they’re part of the history. Anyway, at £11 ish and a bit of time I’d think it worth a go.
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On 20/02/2024 at 05:30, PeteH said:
No Holes, but I understand that `71 seems to have been a "cut off" year when they stopped fitting them?
It was earlier. My Dec 69 built DHC has no flags, or filled holes in the wings!
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Yeah as Johny says the arm on the gearshift mechanism is bent. Straightening both the piece parallel to the gearshift and the bit perpendicular to it should bring you in to contact with the switch. They really don’t need much to actuate.
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Another thing to keep in mind is that the a-posts can also splay outwards. I had, in addition to jacks under the floor, a post and b post, a ratchet strap between the a posts. Less likely to be a problem on the GT6, but @Richard Baines definitely something to watch out for on the Spitfire, as well as making sure your door glass and windscreen frame will fit relative to one another. Dropped a posts can result in the window not closing cause the screen ends up tilted back!
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My Herald’s engine bay looks quite pretty now, but that’s happened incrementally over 16ish years of ownership. 
Soft Top Fitting
in Bodywork & Fittings
Posted
You can sort of see in the photo here