Clive
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Posts posted by Clive
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17 minutes ago, johny said:
I thought brake pad squeal was characteristic on braking not on driving but I suppose the shims could help with both?
If there is too much play in teh wheel bearings, pads can just about stay in contact. If the pistons are not retracting as they should, same thing. But some pads can squeal, clearances are very tight.
But yes, making sure the pistons can move freely is important, and check the discs are clean, not rusty/grooved, and no lip on the edges.
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Brake pad squeal is teh obvious one.
Check the pads have the thin metal "anti squeal shims" fitted, or better still, pop the pads out, clean the back of the pads and the shims, plus the calipers on the edges where the pads sit. Get some Mintex Ceratex grease (very specific) and smear a little on the back of the pads, the shims and the calipers where the pads sit.
Worth checking the front wheel bearings too. Jack the car up at the front, spin the wheels one at a time and feel for any roughness (unlikely) but also the "rock" of the wheel. ie hold teh top and bottom of the wheel, there should be a tiny amount of rock, a mm or 2, that you can just feel. Any more and the bearings need tightening up a little.
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I would agree that one box may be partially blocked (or the Y piece)
Poppingn on overrun not related, although more obvious as less silencing. As to back pressure, I have never understood the worries as it can't effect cylinder filling, to me zero back pressure, or better still, tuned manifold to "suck" the exhaust out, is only a good thing reducing wasted energy.
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On 29/09/2022 at 08:06, dave.vitesse said:
The 13/60 doesn't have a diff mount. But does have a mount from the boot outrigger to the rear of the silencer box. In other words there are two mountings on the rear silencer. The correct/original boot out rigger for Herald has two brackets for mounting the silencer. Where as the Mk2 Vitesse only has the one. There is a hole drilled in the diff carrier on the 13/60 Herald, so if you want you can fit this mount.
Dave
Interesting. I have always used a diff mount, usully a bit of hanging strap with a hook at the bottom, then a U clamp to fix it in place. I can't see a downside as long as it is positioned so it is not causing any stresses.
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30 minutes ago, SteveT57 said:
Hi Guys,
Thanks for the above info. The image that Gary provided is the one in the Haynes and Triumph official manuals, and also on the James Paddock and Rimmer's websites for the Mk2 Vitesse. The twisted metal bracket closest to the manifold does look tricky to fit, as I don't have a set of ramps, and I'm not sure of the accessibility of that area if I tried to access it from the top after removing the gearbox cover. I've replaced the 2 rubber-strip brackets either side of the silencer and the exhaust pipe feels pretty rigid in that area, so I will probably leave it until I can get proper access to it.
Thanks again.
SteveT
I ran my viytesse for 13 or so years as my everyday car, and later herald estates for another 7. Non had that front bracket fitted, none had an issue. Yes, the 1500 twin outlet is a different kettle of fish (I fixed it by enlarging the studs to the same as the vitesse, plus getting the mating faces smooth/flat)
The most important exhaust mount has always been the one from the diff. Or maybe that is just my experoence.
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33 minutes ago, ahebron said:
FAG
That won't be a problem!
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14 hours ago, Hugh Dixon said:
Mathew, yes I was thinking that might be part of the issue, am thinking to go back to sealed beam units , and of course they are more period. I didn’t look what wattage the halogen lights are before fitting and given they were from a main triumph parts sillier and didn’t come with any instructions regarding relays etc I assumed just a straight swap. Thanks for response.
Most halogens, certainly bulbs supplied with lamps, are 55W, the same as sealed beams (give or take, but nothing to worry about)
However, relays are good as they take the load off the light switch, and can be beneficial in terms of light output. And that is the most important job of the lights!
The switch may well have been damaged by the earlier incident, from overheating and melting the plastic to burning contacts.
It can be very worthwile fitting additional fuses, protects the car against serious damage.
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The brass part fits into the windscreen frame.
See this diagram (mkIV, but identical )
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I sold a pair during covid, fetched about £100 or so.
Price is driven up as they are used on lotus(+early Caterham?) And sought after as they use the common Ford caliper spacing.
You could use GT6 brackets calipers and discs? May be cheaper and indeed better.
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Curveball.... a friend (Classiclife, Richard) has a set of mobile axle stands. They are excellent, he uses them to roll either his vitesse or daimler around. I have been tempted, as they can get the car nice and high if required.
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£600 sounds like a lot for a 4 cylinder unleaded conversion.
Give canleys a call. They may even want your head, or be able to get yours done. Besides, Dave knows more about these cars than almost anybody else, and has access to good workshops etc. I know what I would do.
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Lets get this right. The club has got a survey set up to get some idea about what members want, collate data etc
Of course it can't be a vast survey, it needs to be kept short or people won't bother. And they won't be wanting a long essay on other ideas, just a concise sentence or so
This is all good stuff. I would hope it will be mentioned at the AGM, and AO's encouraged to give their local groups a nudge.
As to data retention, GDPR has a bit to say on that, so nothing should be kept indefinately. And as Craig points out, we all say plenty on here.
EDIT: We have been given a chance to give feedback, and people are nitpicking over details. There seems to be no pleasing some people! I am just glad we are being offered this opportunity.
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2 hours ago, Badwolf said:
I have the fleabay kits. Got it after Doug's praise some time back. Great upgrade but take care to check the in-line fuse rating. Mine came in with 40amp. Others have come with different ratings so best to check.
Beware those kits. The plating on teh terminals is very poor. I had a set that gave up teh ghost, and were so rusty I couldn't get them apart without serious destruction. I bought them years aho when they were a fiver, and had a spare setup which I fitted, then liberally sprayed with protective wax. They haven't gone rusty. In fact, any underbonnect connections get a squirt of aerosol protective wax to help keep the connections good. No downside.
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Chris Jones did a proper thesis of the vitesse chassis. The article was the sept 2020 CT magazine.
Nick (his dad) has carried some chassis mods accordingly.
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4 minutes ago, Nigel Clark said:
My experience with Wipac halogen reflectors is that after a few years, the silvering corrodes and peels. Cibié and Lucas last better.
The Lucas halogen reflectors on my TR6 are 20 years old and still look as good as new.... Or would do if I cleaned off the fly spatter!
Nigel
My Wipac are 15 years old, and the lived outside for much of the time. Reflectors still all good. Previous "normal" type Wipac have failed rather faster. Not sure I woud trust new Lucas as they only make boxes, all the contents are contracted out to "best value" suppliers.
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10 minutes ago, Dave the tram said:
Hi Clive
So are you saying that Wipac ones that aren’t described as crystal, such as at the club shop, are different and perhaps not as good? I’ve read in other posts that the land rover ones described as crystal have different shaped attachments and need modding, but clearly you have fitted them fine.
cheers
Dave
I fitted mine in 2007, but I don't remember any issues. If there were, it was nothing difficult.
Yes, the "normal" type have the pattern in the glass, and not as good as the crystal type at lighting the road up. Some people don't like teh plain glass, others (me!) are just pleased with the increased lighting performance.
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I have te Wipac crystal lamps. They were sold as landrover, but the round 7" lamps are all interchangeable.
Just be aware they do look different. But are very effective.
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14 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said:
That's not fair!! Brown cars need love too. They may be slightly cheaper, for some reason...
Remember the member who had the 2000 in 'Gusset Brown' a few years back?
Re Colin's post above, white looks very well with tan interior too.
Brown cars need respraying (personal opinion) My spitfire bodytub was brown. Zero appeal to me, or indeed anybody I know. I am sure there are some people who lke brown cars though.
I agree with Colin. A white TR6 must have a black interior. Tan is ok on white herald etc, but a TR6 is a different kettle of fish, and needs the strong contrast.
Aologies to Colin, I have yet to see his TR6. And I forgot Mr Helms red TR6. If I were to buy one (very low chance) I would go white by choice. But availability/condition/value would be bigger infuences. Still no brown, or indeed beige.
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18 hours ago, Unkel Kunkel said:
Thank you Colin,
- luckily I managed to get the metal retaining ring part but appreciate the EBay refernce.
I was wondering if there was a rubber/plastic gaiter specific for the overdrive wiring -May be with a piercing of some sort for the wires to go through.
What I have done, is using the gaiter I have, is route the wires between gaiter and the extension housing, keeping the connectors topside of the gaiter with a fairly loose loop, thinking might flex less and ease access for any future wire replacements.
I hav never seen one with wiring oles, and had several 1500 OD cars through my hands over the years.
I would be careful about that blue connector, it will create a stress point on the wire where it exits the connector. I have had best results using extra flexible wires, a nice loop between fixed points, and the connectors after the fixed points.
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Oddly I know several TR6 owners, and the nearest to a red one is Damson. White, royal (dark) blue,green. But no red.
I think people are over the "sports cars should be red" thing. And yes, avoid brown, a very aquired choice. Saffron/magenta not everybodies cuppa either. But either of the 3 colours you are looking at should be acceptable to most buyers. Afraid I cannot help beyond that.
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No vibrations? Leave it well alone!
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The simple solution is direct wiring.
+12v>inhibitor switch>OD switch>solenoid
Check the wiring up the gearstick carefully (if using the gearstick switch) and be aware teh new switches are of variable quality.
Inhibitor switches sometimes need a tweek, and even the solenoid earth wire can internally fracture inside teh s=insulation, especially if it has gone hard.
I would be inclined to get a simple bulb with a pair of wires to test the electrical supply at various points. Start across te solenoid, then work back. I guess you could use 3 bulbs, solenoid, and both sides of inhibitor switch. speed diagnosis up.
If you wish to keep the relay, any modern relay will work.
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Biggest problem is often bleed nipples. If they break it is a nighmare.....
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Not a place to "have a go" as the yoke/halfshaft is highly stressed. Buy a new halfshaft froma decent supplier (some are selling them with rollpins rather than proper hardened pins)
Remember the member who had the 2000 in 'Gusset Brown' a few years back?
Help identify this flywheel
in Gearbox & Overdrive
Posted
Those holes will drill out with a hand held drill at home. The drill will centre nicely, though a pillar drill would be better if available.
The flywheel may even be lighter? not sure about that though somebody will know.
My only conv=cern would be if it were a vitesse 1600 flywheel, not sure if that clutch is the same but I suspect it is a coil spring clutch