Clive
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Posts posted by Clive
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My spitfire (CV/rotoflex) uses std non roto Konis. They came off my mk1 vitesse....
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I am very happy with my konis.not cheap, but great performance and a very long life (still fine after 25 years)
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Rimmers list them, the first and only place I checked.
https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-GRID007874
I expect they are available elsewhere for less. Or try a local windscreen supplier, they can often find all sorts of stuff, but it can be a wait.
In your situation many people may accedentally drop something on the screen and make a glass claim.
Worth considering a new rubber if the screen is being replaced. COH Baines probably the best place. I have no Herald experience in the last 25 years, but I know many spitfire rubbers are wrong, and Baines are the best (and very reasonably priced)
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MoT garages always used to adjust headlights for free. As long as adjusters were accessable.
One place just used their hand to wallop the headlight in the right place and get it move in the plastic adjuster. He always got it right too.
Haven't had a fail in years on headlights. But I use the garage door, and check the beams are pointing down a little. And sort of straight ahead.
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I would prefer to have the tolerane ring fitted. It should be a good tight fit as originally they were the only things holding the pin in place. Saying that, I have had cars with all sorts of bolts used to replace the pin, never surrefed any issues.
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A retired friend does a few hours a week at a bodyshop (supposidly just doing "old stuff")
It seems they book classics in to fill any spare time, but they just don't have any spare time. So progress can be very slow. And customers don't seem to worry.
But from a business perspective, having a car take up space for a year (or more) seems madness, better to employ another bod full time and turn more work over. I expect customers would be happier too.
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Chic Doig is the only one I know of, but near Perth.
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Try Bailey Morris at Feltham. Good for all things propshaft.
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1 hour ago, DJB350Z said:
Interesting, was 50l not a bit too small?
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earth is whatever it happens to be where you are.
The output of the CTEK is 12V (ok, a little more) but that 12V is the difference between the two croc clips. It has no earth reference at all.
Easy to test, when the carger is connected, use a voltmeter (a cheap digital meter will be fine) between the car battery terminals and a electrical earth. Easiest to access is a screwhead on the socket faceplate where the charger is plugged in.
If you want an analagy, think about standing on a chair. But what is your height? You need to say "height above the floor" or "above sea level" etc.
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15 minutes ago, DJB350Z said:
Interesting, was 50l not a bit too small?
I have sprayed several cars, never been an issue.
I am not saying 100L wouldn't be better, but mine copes just fine. I use a 1.3 tip on a gravity fed HVLP spraygun. (not expensive either, but results are good just as I finish spraying. Really I need more practice.
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1 hour ago, DerekS said:
I have a CTEK charger connected 24/7, have had it for years now (12/13?) and the odd thing with it is at certain times in it's "cycling" if I brush against the bumpers, wearing shorts, I get a definite sharp tingle. Enough to make me jump!
Derek.
I expect the charge output is sitting at maybe 100v over earth. I checked a USB port on a double socket at home as that tingled. Yep 100v over earth. But no real current so not an issue.
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I bought a new SIP 3hp/50l direct drive compressor, had it 10 years, sprayed several cars and lots of other stuff. And then a lightly used SIP belt drive compressor came up locally at a very good price, which I snapped up. That was about 17 years ago. Selling my old SIP covered the cost of the upgrade.
There are a lot of barely used compressors out there. I would always say try to get a belt drive, the noise is so much easier to live with.
As another suggestion, consider linking ypour existing compressor to whatever ypu buy. Effectively you will end up with more power and a larger tank, no downsides. (unless you have limited electrical power, and both start at the exact same time. Only the moment they start is a worry, but the chances of that are near enough zero)
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We were in Norwich sunday eve/Monday, but arrived late, and then popped out to meet a friend on Monday before heading home. 500 miles or so in teh Spitfire, including 85 miles on a 12 car rally, where we suffered from not having 6 inches of ground clearance....
As to vibrations, a visit to "vibration free" will pinpoint the problem(s) but at a cost.
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5 minutes ago, PeteH said:
Had a look at those, they look the business, biggest drawback is the need to run the fan permanently to keep the shape. With the current cost of electricity that could be expensive?. Hence the search for a possible second hand party tent on a rigid frame. the strength is not critical as it`s going into a Barn anyway. So cheap and dump if neccessary after use?.
Now got a line on an Old time, Painter Near Brid; in Yorkshire. He did some work for a friend. Just catching him when he is there as he only seems to work part time now. I have even considered doing the Prime by brush, while I get sorted with how I do the final coat. I spoke to a guy who reckons Acrylic is the way to go? He coach paints for the "steam" fraternity.
Pete.
Depends which "acrylic" he means.
2K is often referred to as Acrylic, and is great (ignoring the potential health risks of applying the stuff, sorted with an air fed mask etc)
If he means a synthetic type paint, don't do it. Looks OK from the gun, but never goes really hard and can't be polished. Fine on lorries/agricultural stuff, not so good on cars.
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2 hours ago, PeteH said:
Ouch!!. I feel your pain. I`ve done all the welding and most of the fettleing on My 13/60. But need a sprayshop?. Can I find one? snowballs chance in hell. They appear to all be socked in with Repair work and no one wants to spend time on any "classics". The one shop that did, has a wait list to 2024/5. I`m currently looking to DIY. If I can get a large enough "party tent" to use as a popup spray booth, and in order to keep the pigeon poop off the paint!! with the intention to errect it in a friend`s son`s Barn.
Pete
Look up "inflatable spray booth"
I know somebody who bought one, used it and then sold it on. He lost £100, which was a bargain for him. Good filtration etc all included.
I have sprayed in my garage, but last car (few months ago) I did under the car port. Much less crap in the paint. I used 2K, and an old (don't laugh) ex military gasmask fed from a diaphragm compressor. That provides safe air. 2K paint is fantastic, even if only for the primer as it doesn't sink like celly.
As to costs, easy to spend £500 on the materials for a basic respray. I bought 5L of 2k paint for £120, but hardener was another £25. That was before primer, abrasives etc. And a 3L tub of filler for blending repairs, plus a tube of acrylic stopper.
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11 hours ago, Colin Lindsay said:
Slightly shorter shoulder than the originals, so the threads are against the shackle itself, not the shoulder. I've no idea how much difference it will make to the finished spring, but it's bound to be weaker than original. I'm still trying to find a source of longer bolts; might even have to go an inch longer so the shoulder clears the shackle, then cut the threaded section off once tightened.
When I want 12.9 spec prop/diff bolts I had to use some longer ones and cut part of the thread off. Unless the bolt is application specific (so will likely be unavailble for anything Triumph these days) so the only option is chop chop.
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10 hours ago, Pdv said:
It should have come with one but?.
Simple solution, thanks.
Steve
Not quite as simple as you think. It needs to be the same sort of thickness as the fan belt. Thin string will sit at the bottom of the pully V's and you will buy too short a belt.
Std 1500 belt is 1088mm, which should fit, but no guarantees!
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10 minutes ago, johny said:
no other difference (apart from the knob of course) but not a job for the faint hearted as even that exit hole is drilled at an angle....
The threaded section on a non-od stick is 5/16 (I think from memory) and is a reduced diameter. But on the OD the thread is larger (probably UNF?)
But in all honesty, for most cars tehcolumn switch is a better option. Or if you want a gearknob type the "works rally " type are fantastic. Got on on my dolomite/toledo, much better to use than you may think.
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1 minute ago, cliff.b said:
Yes, I know about the hood, and I usually fold it properly, but despite being sunny it wasn't too warm so heater on and trying to keep the cold air off my neck. Not sure it worked very well 🤔
Get a screen thing to go behind th eseats. They really do work
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9 minutes ago, cliff.b said:
Glad you like it 👍. The colour is like marmite, people either love it or hate it lol
And it's certainly not sunny here today so I'm glad that I took the opportunity to go out ☔
I like bright colours!
Like Colin, the weather was atrocious here yesterday, looking bettter today.
My only gripe. You need to learn how to fold the hood down correctly! (trust me, it will look neater and last longer)
I must collect my spitfire from the lockup today, need to fit my new wideband gauge/sensor as the old one seems to have died.
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26 minutes ago, Tipidave said:
I am making progress with my three rail d type overdrive that will go into my Herald 1200.
I have drained out the old oil and it looked reasonably clean with no nasties in it. The magnetic sump plug had scavenged just a very few bits of fine metal adhering to the magnet.
I have removed the overdrive filter and cleaned both it and the magnetic rings. It did have small amount of grey sludge no sign of black clutch material so I am guessing not significant and nothing untoward.
so… my question is do I need to flush both through with either duck oil or paraffin or similar? To be belt and braces, Or just refill with EP90 when the time comes?
I would just refil with some ep80/90 GL4. If worried, drain it after a few runs
I would also store it with at least some oil in it.
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Yes, it seems some cars had teh single bolt, others a pair of short bolts.
I have never had an issue with the single long bolt, a couple of long extensions so I can work outside the rear wing, and if it is a bit seized, I have used those same extensions and a club hammer to give the pointy end a whack. Never failed. Then I just wind the bolt out. The pair of bolts have caused me issues a couple of times, nuts fitting on the inside so nothing to hit easily with a hammer.
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You could attempt a repair. No different to bodywork, cut out the rusty section, and weld in fresh metal.
However, teh internals may well be rotten too.
I have had success sourcing stainless steel boxes off ebay from companies who make their own exhaust parts, in one case contacting them and asking for a bespoke length (which was no problem at all)
You may want to find out what the internal layout of the box is, so you can get a sound that is very similar.
Looking for Spit 1500 Hardtop (SW)
in Parts Wanted
Posted
And if you are not careful, when listing ebay automatically fills in postage for you. Very easy to miss that, and I expect that is exactly what has happened. Ebay has interfered, and got it very wrong.