Patrick Taylor
-
Posts
191 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Gallery
Downloads
Store
Events
Posts posted by Patrick Taylor
-
-
So here's the thing: when I switch on the right indicator I get a single flash on the dashboard indicator and the RH sidelight bulb flashes rapidly. When I switch on the left indicator it works perfectly, although maybe a little fast. The RH indicator bulb has continuity.
So, is this an flasher unit failure? I have a replacement GFU103 but Canleys list the number as GFU2103: is that the same part? The pin-out is different: this has terminals marked L, P and X which isn't the same as my Haynes manual.
Or is it an earthing problem? We are talking a Bond Equipe, so it has a separate earth screwed to the rear of the sidelight/flasher pressing but this has never been a problem in the past.
-
56 minutes ago, Paul H said:
See my post above DX73 fits my Vitesse
Paul
Thanks Paul -don't know how I missed it🙄. I'm going for 12 metres, as the Bond has opening rear windows, which I reckon will require another 1.5 metres, plus an allowance for corners etc.
-
This has reminded me, I must get some DX73 seals for Bertie the Bond: I've had two different specialists replace the seals, and each time they have fitted furflex balloon ones, so I'm on door slamming duties, which can't do the fibreglass any good. Time to revert to the original lip seals. Can anyone confirm that DX73 is correct for a Herald/Vitesse?
-
How is Jacinta Adern viewed in NZ? From this distance I would say she is about the pick of the bunch, but an international rpofile isn't always mirrored at home. As others have noted, there is no one in this country -of any party- who would bestride the world like a colossus right now...
-
On 01/05/2022 at 20:59, Mike Costigan said:
One of Michelotti's designs for that Scammell:
There's a man who could handle a pencil!
-
It's always easy to slag off the young (I remember reading a mediaeval account doing just this, so it's nothing new), but the young men opposite and next door to me have variously replaced front struts, discs and calipers, a radiator and, of course, in-car entertainment(!), so there are those, like us, who can and do carry out their own repairs. They each have a VW Polo, so probably a modern equivalent of the Minis, Escorts, Triumphs and Morris Minors we cut our teeth on. But even if they wanted to, could they afford a 'proper' classic? No. Will they get insured? No. So this will have to wait until they've paid off student loans, mortgages and put the children through higher education, if they take that route. So we just need to keep our cars going for another thirty years or so, and there will be buyers for them. No fuel to run 'em on, mind you...😲
-
I think Bond used a standard loom -I've used the Vitesse/Herald Haynes manual wiring diagram on a 2-litre and 1300 Equipe for the last 30 years and never found anything different...
-
When I had a rear screen break🤯, the garage found a moulding they said was for kit cars. But I would try contacting Guy Singleton (details in The Courier): he has an encyclopaedic knowledge of our cars!
-
On 09/02/2022 at 16:31, Mike Costigan said:
And finally for this post, three TR2s on the 1955 Birmingham Post Rally:
This gives the entrants in the Birmingham Post Rally of 1955: Birmingham Post Rally - Historical Research, in memory of David McKinney - The Autosport Forums
And I'm amazed to think I might know this, but might the location be the top of the Senni Valley in the Brecon Beacons? You have to admit, the hill on the left (Fan Ghirych?) looks pretty similar... My photo is taken from a similar position, just behind where the cars are. Am I imagining it, or is there a hairpin bend behind the cars in the b&w view? If so, I am pretty certain that's where is is.
-
1
-
-
3 hours ago, Colin Lindsay said:
I was fascinated to find that a clematis I bought years ago called Mrs Cholmondeley was actually pronounced 'chumley'...
According to Wikipedia Horatio Bottomley was a journalist, editor, newspaper proprietor, swindler, and Member of Parliament (no change there, then). The story is that when he visited Lord Cholmondley he asked the flunkey if he could see Lord chol-mond-ley; on being told that his lordship's name was pronounced 'chumley', Bottomley replied 'Well, tell him that Horatio Bumley is here to see him'...
Sorry for the thread drift.
-
1
-
-
On 07/02/2022 at 18:26, Colin Lindsay said:
Back in the day 'hubcaps' or 'nave plates' were usually well-embellished to set a car off, and plain ones were called 'poverty plates' as it was obvious the owner couldn't afford anything better...
According to Wikipedia:
"A typical ship's wheel is composed of eight cylindrical wooden spokes (though sometimes as few as six or as many as ten) shaped like balusters and all joined at a central wooden hub or nave (sometimes covered with a brass nave plate) which housed the axle. The square hole at the centre of the hub through which the axle ran is called the drive square and was often lined with a brass plate (and therefore called a brass boss, though this term was used more often to refer to a brass hub and nave plate) which was frequently etched with the name of the wheel's manufacturer. The outer rim is composed of sections each made up of stacks of three felloes, the facing felloe, the middle felloe, and the after felloe. Because each group of three felloes at one time made up a quarter of the distance around the rim, the entire outer wooden wheel was sometimes called the quadrant. Each spoke ran through the middle felloe creating a series of handles beyond the wheel's rim. One of these handles/ spokes was frequently provided with extra grooves at its tip which could be felt by a helmsman steering in the dark and used by him to determine the exact position of the rudder—this was the king spoke and when it pointed straight upward the rudder was believed to be dead straight to the hull. The completed ship's wheel and associated axle and pedestal(s) might even be taller than the person using it. The wood used in construction of this type of wheel was most often either teak or mahogany, both of which are very durable tropical hardwoods capable of surviving the effects of salt water spray and regular use without significant decomposition."
So I suppose early car wheels resembled ship's wheels and thus the centre part is called - in Britain only, mind - the nave plate.
In a church the long aisle with the spokes of the roof overhead resembled the hull of a ship, so was called the nave, from the Latin 'Navis' meaning ship.
And because English is both fascinating and frustrating, 'felloes' are pronounced 'fellies'. Why? Because we can, because we can.
-
I favour Joyce, full punctuation and trying to straighten out squashed Linread switches to make them work again. Given that plenty of manufacturers used them, they seem overpriced (i.e. they are hardly a niche product), but what can you do?
-
I have had some success a) holding the (no longer) captive nuts with a pair of log-nosed pliers and b) jamming a flat bladed screwdriver in between the square nut and the side of the steel pressing that houses it. You have to lift the rear footwell carpets as best you can in order to do this.
-
I know it is contentious, but once you've got a battery (and an 063 spins my 1300 spit engine and fires it every time, despite long lay-up times), do consider investing in a top-up charger/conditioner. Hooked up every few months, it gives the battery a boost. Obviously you could take the car out for a spin instead but as we know, time doesn't always allow for these things...
-
1
-
-
11 hours ago, DanMi said:
except the Herald 1360 was never available with overdrive, so would have to be a spitfire box either 3 synchro mk 2-3 (very rare these days) or 4 synchro mk4
Ah, that's what comes of being a Bond owner -they had a mix of things. When I upgraded to O/D, the box came from a Mk4 Spit -but then the engine is Mk3, not 13/60 (if that's different...?).
-
Or buy the gearbox in the hope there's a Vitesse owner with a 13/60 OD 'box they want to sell/exchange. Having seen the recent thread about how many spare parts people have lying about, that may not be such a daft option...
-
I would always seal the grain with either a sanding sealer or Danish Oil before applying Briwax; you would need to work quite hard to get a shine on raw wood without a sealed surface to build on. Apply the wax with a very fine ('00000') grade wire wool, rubbing along the grain; let it dry and then buff to a shine. You can build a greater shine with repeat applications over time, but it won't be as deep a shine as a varnish.
An oiled & waxed finish will mark if water sits on it -it isn't waterproof. Rustins Plasticote is waterproof, though. As mentioned above, apply it with a brush and build up several layes, flatting back the surface as you go. Once fully hardened, the finish can be flatted back with wet and dry paper (1000/1200 grit) used wet & soapy; and then build the depth of shine with T-Cut followed by car body wax.
-
1
-
-
3 hours ago, Steve P said:
Saw one just yesterday whilst out and about in Surrey,and it was chrome.
Steve
-
Hard to beat a Mitsuoka Viewt: Mid-section of a Micra, top and tailed with a cheese-before-bed dream of a Mk2 Jag...
-
According to legend, the Scootacar (built by Hunslets, who made steam locomotives), was 'designed' by getting someone to sit on a Villiers motorbike engine and then drawing around him:
-
Did/do these have a fibre washer? I've never seen/replaced one, having assumed they 'just' sealed through being an interference fit.
-
It has some movement (stationary, without the engine running & the gearbox cold) but it feels very notchy: perhaps the detent plate(?) needs re-setting. I left one of the gear lever springs out at the previous re-bush, so maybe things have worn over time. I'll get the tunnel off and investigate when I get a run of time.
-
12 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:
if you have just fitted a kit (remembering now) did you fettle the cup washer ??? the sharp edges can lock the spherical ball and the top cup
one silly might comes to mind that the circlip on either end of the mainshaft has failed does the stick in 3rd move back and fourth when you accelerate/decelerate
Pete
Cup washer is unfettled, and should be accessible without removing the tunnel, so that's an easy first check. the gearlever seemed the same as usual -no movement on acceleration.
-
44 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:
yes very likely its a remote problem very likely the middle shaft bush pivot has degraded
get a bush kit and make sure the bolt in the base of the stick is the right way round and not fouling up on the casting
if you do this use the old cup washer new ones need a serious file to remove the sharp cropped edges which will mince everything in minutes if not smoothed
Pete
I wouldn't mind, but I re-bushed the linkage in the summer and have done virtually no mileage since, thanks to the binding brakes...
So, it's tunnel out again, take the remote off and see what's appertaining.
Odd flasher problem
in Electrical System
Posted
Poor earth on the light unit, or the flasher?