Patrick Taylor
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Posts posted by Patrick Taylor
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I'm tempting fate by saying this, but I fitted Aldon Ignitor electronic ignition 25 years ago and it is still going strong, about 60 000 miles later.🤞
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I think I will rely on torque, threadlock and rust: two of these have proved their worth for over 50 years' motoring so far... 😊
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16 hours ago, Colin Lindsay said:
If this is the Autodata manual, and the picture is J8 on page 105
It is the Autodata one, but Diagram H14 on page 85...
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I was thinking I might put a drop of thread lock on the new bolts. The old ones were locked in place by several years' rust, but I can see that a more technical approach might have its advantages.
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On 13/11/2021 at 15:36, Colin Lindsay said:
Yes, that's what the diagram shows, but on the back of the hub.
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1 hour ago, Pete Lewis said:
i dont see any tab washers on calipers where does it fit ..... nothing on any parts listing
Pete
My 'Autodata' handbook shows a tab washer 'plate' (or two curved strips?) on the disc-to-hub bolts. But as mine has spring washers I'm assuming the tab washer is artistic licence!
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9 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:
what plate is this ???
Pete
The tab washer one.
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I have made a start and will be fitting new discs, bearings and calipers. There isn't a locking plate on the car (type 14 brakes with standard Herald/Spit set-up); do I need to order a couple?
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Is this the new prom at Douglas where they have moved the 120+ year-old horse tram lines because it was thought modern drivers couldn't cope with them? Only marginally better than the initial plan, which was to do away with them entirely, immediately, and without any consultation!
EDIT: I see the prom project is now officially 'finished', even though it is...erm...incomplete!
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3 hours ago, Wagger said:
...some small ceramic electrical heating elements (up to 150watts) in the incoming air supply...
Do you have a link for these, please?
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17 hours ago, PeteH said:
Didn't I see/hear somewhere that some vehicles had "air flaps" which allowed warm(er) air when cold and then went over to full cold air once the engine warmed up? (Audi? Maybe?)
Pete
My 1980 TR7 had that arrangement.
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So is it worth me replacing the (newly painted!) MkIII Spit airbox from my GT4s 1300? With intake slots in the bottom edge of the airbox, it draws hot air off the exhaust manifold all year round. Which explains the dreadful tickover in traffic on hot days... Presumably Spitfire drivers suffer the same thing?
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22 hours ago, PeteH said:
As I understand about the only thing "Triumph" was the engine?
I believe so; maybe a few other parts. They had a rather higher profile in the TSSC in the 80's -possibly even their own edition of the famed 'Turning Circle' supplement...
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Floats? you need an Amphicar...the only car fitted with a bilge pump as standard...😁
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If you are desperate to repair your existing light, you might try 'Glue n Glaze: Deluxe Materials Glue n Glaze AD55 | Hobbies
which the r/c aircraft modellers use to create cockpit canopies: you wipe a film across the gap (think of a bubble-blowing loop and soapy water) and it then dries clear. A spray of white on the back might give you an opaque finish...
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The economists would tell us that this is technology push, not demand pull...
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A good task to tackle, as it is straightforward (have you got a Haynes manual? If not, I'd recommend getting one); it's just like big Meccano: nuts and bolts and springs. And really satisfying when you have completed it: it transforms the gear linkage!
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Blue Spit spotted heading south on the A4069 Llangadog to Brynaman this afternoon. I was there with a D of E group when you were driving the twisties. I hope you enjoyed it!
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On 12/04/2020 at 10:36, Colin Lindsay said:
Do you remember the old projectors with the plate on the underside; it dropped down, you put a photo on it and then raised it again and it projected the image, usually upside down?
An epidiascope: Opaque projector - Wikipedia. Great word!
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A vote for Newton Commercials from me, too. They will also provide moulded sets in non-standard colours...😁
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1 hour ago, Colin Lindsay said:
Simple; I've done three Heralds and a Spitfire in the last year.
OK, it looks like I might give it a go, as I have a couple of seal sets in the drawer. I may not split the caliper, though: it sounds like 'here there be dragons' territory, like fully reconning a gearbox or rear pinion set. I just hope everything isn't seized -but suspect it will be 😒.
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1 hour ago, 68vitesse said:
Been a number of posts.
Thanks -interesting reading!
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Having had very little use in the past couple of years, the offside front (Type 14) caliper of the Bond is binding, and thinking that a bit of heat might help free it, I went for a drive. This resulted in brake fade, a lot of heat, and a blued disc. Not my wisest decision, in hindsight.
I have already replaced the brake fluid and believe it sensible to replace the discs as a pair, too. Which leaves the calipers: one working, one partially seized. I am not keen on 'only' fitting new seals, so the alternatives seem to replace them as a pair, either with new, or reconditioned, units. Given the relatively slim difference in cost (about £10 apiece at Paddocks), are there any benefits in taking the cheaper option? I am well aware of shoddy pattern parts and that re-worked Triumph parts might be better quality, but is this true in this case?
Finally, how easy is it to fit new discs and calipers? My only attempt at fitting new pads proved to be a real struggle, but perhaps new, uncorroded parts will be more straightforward. Given the heat generated (and the fact that I have some NOS ones) I intend to fit new bearings, too. I would regard myself as a competent mechanic: clutch changes, cylinder heads off & valves replaced, etc. in the past.
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I was going to replace mine, but didn't in the end. I thought about using greyboard, which looks similar. I rather like Peter's suggestion of using PVA to reinforce it. Equally, you could glue two thinner pieces together as you fix it in place, effectively creating a laminate. The thickness of greyboard is usually measured in microns, i.e. 1000 = 1mm, so 750 - 1500 might be about right.
Ignition Key
in Engine
Posted
Heralds used FS keys at that time; I'm not sure about Spitfires, but the key code should be on the barrel: FS Keys (moss-europe.co.uk)