Patrick Taylor
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Posts posted by Patrick Taylor
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3 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:
there you go the bodge is a bodge the right thing is the right thing
gets my seal of approval ha !
i have not found any main stream supplier sell the correct section /extrusion and that also applies to 2000 saloon door seals that run in a C channel .
the trade buyers are complete numpties there is the most awful stuff that neither fits or works from anywhere, so a diy search of COB works wonders
if we can find the right section why cant they ????? Grrrr
Pete
I think I'll go for the right thing, but it is annoying that both times I have had (the wrong) seals fitted it was by marque specialists. I can't imagine 1960's Aston Martins or Ferraris being turned out with over-sized fuzzy-felt door seals. Perhaps you pay for all the extra research...
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Thanks for all the advice: are we saying DX 73 is the seal to get? I like Pete's bodge -and my wallet likes it even more!- but the challenge of cutting it neatly may outweigh the savings. I take it that 8 metres does the two front doors; or is a boot seal included in that length? The Bond GT4S has a smaller boot aperture, but two opening rear quarterlights, which I will need to measure.
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20 minutes ago, clive said:
Assuming the bond seals are the same as herald/viteese (likely) none of those are correct. It is not a bubble seal, but more of a fin.
https://coh-baines.co.uk/product/dx-73-composite-self-grip-type-draught-excluder/
Thanks, Clive: it's so long since I swapped the seals out (25 years ago 😲) that I can't recall what they looked like! The furflex ones are bubble seals (not a term I've heard before, but it makes perfect sense), so I was looking for something more compact. Have you used the COH Baines ones?
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Many years ago I replaced the door seals on my car when the old ones expired. At the time, the only option seemed to be later furflex ones which have a bigger rubber seal, meaning the doors need slamming to shut them. I had them replaced again the other year, but the problem persists. I am giving the car a belated 50th birthday refresh and have found a company that supplies seals which look much more like the original ones. Can anyone advise which ones might work best? The car is a Bond Equipe 1300, but is in many regards the same as a 13/60 Herald.
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I am doing some tidying up of my Bond Equipe GT4S 1300, which is fitted with a MkIII Spit engine, twin SUs...and a Herald bulkhead. Because so much of her is Herald, I ordered a 13/60 throttle cable, only to find that it is too short. The one on the car is around 48 inches long, while the 13/60 one is a foot shorter. So what cable do I need? It has the usual push-in (Simmonds?) fixing, so is clearly a Triumph part: just not a Herald one!
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Before you start, file a chamfer on the end of the bar; this will make starting easier and also help get the thread straight -you won't be able to tighten up a drunk thread fully. The first few threads will be tapered on the side of the die with the numbers on, so start with that facing downwards. Apply half a turn forward, then a quarter turn back to break off the swarf; It is best to use a cutting compound, but seeing as you aren't (weren't!) doing many, no point in buying a tin; a dab of grease will do on steel.
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I've just picked up this thread -I'm glad everything is fixed and you are enjoying the car! Some of the earlier posts remind me of the old adage of 'before you make it go, you need to make it stop', i.e. improve the brakes before you improve the engine. I had a braided hose fail a number of years ago: I think they are PTFE tube under the stainless, and I thought they were 'fit and forget'. Apparently not! I replaced them (with more braided...) but read somewhere that in NZ braided hoses have to be replaced every seven-years...
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Finally got the shocks fitted yesterday, along with new rear spring bushes; the mechanic was swearing as he needed to use heat to burn out the old bushes, and remove a seized bolt, on a near-30 degree day. Took cold beer as a peace offering!
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Both dampers have been returned, serviced/repaired/replaced FOC, with red polybush inserts fitted. Old-fashioned service, with no fuss and no show. I am very impressed!
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Hoses gone soft and pinching closed when hot & at high revs?
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I contacted Avo and they want to see/refurb the shocks. They have only done 7000 miles...
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Having posted that I'd found a broken Gaz shock absorber on my GT4S, on going through my receipts (and checked the car) I've found it was an Avo shock that has fractured where the lower eye is welded on. I thought it was worth putting the record straight.
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Horn sounding as steering wheel is turned
in Electrical System
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Had this on my 2-litre Equipe decades ago. Embarrassing, isn't it? I seem to remember it was something to do with the 'biro-shaped' plunger -officially a horn contact- which was shorting out. The Equipe had a Les Leston wheel on it, but an after-market one (Moto-lita or similar) might do the same thing. You can get them from Rimmers: Brush - Horn Contact - Standard Length - 2.6 in - 142534 (rimmerbros.com) althought there are two different lengths to choose from...