NonMember
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Posts posted by NonMember
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Depending how bad it is, either remove a shim each side or leave it alone. A little bit of toe-out at the back does no harm.
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1 hour ago, Anglefire said:
All I have to do now is to stop the choke sticking - it’s really close to not doing so - and if you drive off smartish the giggling along the road is enough to drop it back.
When my brother had his Mk2, the choke was "just a tiny bit sticky". Normally you wouldn't even notice, because the engine vibration was enough to release it. But when I got in on a hot day in France, having parked up not long before with the front bumper against a wall, and instinctively pulled the choke... there was just no way it would actually start without pushing it away from the wall to open the bonnet to manually push the jets back up.
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I think this was answered above
On 16/06/2018 at 11:06 AM, JohnD said:The saloon engine, not the TR, was fitted canted, tilted to the right, for a lower bonnet line. The front engine mounts, the rear engine plate and the sump (and the intake manifold) reflect this. The sump base is at an angle, and the front of the deep part is more forward, as you have found.
(emphasis mine)
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I'm fairly sure the rotoflex setup still needs a puller but it's 25 years since I did them.
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I don't think that type would be fitted on a Vitessse. Certainly not on either of the ones I've owned. I'd expect it to be like these:
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It's quite possible to run a multi-point injection system without a cam sensor, it just restricts you to not using "fully sequential" mode. Unless you're doing something clever, which you can on a six with split plenums and (two) manifold pressure sensors. Or if you can tolerate stumbly starts.
Single point injection is not a great solution. You're better using multi-point with "banked" or "grouped" ("simultaneous" or "banked" in some people's terminology) patterns.
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Modern batteries are better but they still suffer discharge and can still be found wanting during cranking. That's why, as I pointed out, all modern cars still take action to cope with low cranking voltage, which is what the ballast system is about. It wasn't "necessary" in the 1960s or the 1970s but it was, and still is, beneficial in some conditions. I'm fairly sure my Vitesse would have started before we moved house, if it had a ballasted ignition system. It was cranking over fine, and the only thing I did to it after moving was the change the battery again. This is an absolutely classic case of why they introduced the ballasted coils, and was only two years ago.
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Hello and welcome!
From your moniker I'm suspecting you're another refugee from a somewhat disimproved other forum... This one is now what that one used to be when it was good.
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I don't know that the reason "doesn't exist anymore". Nothing's really changed except that we tend to keep our batteries in better condition. I've certainly had cars with weak batteries quite recently and the ballast system does help them. Modern engines don't use ballast resistors because the clever computer adjusts the dwell time dynamically to suit the battery voltage. And they DO use more dwell during cranking to achieve the same result as the ballast bypass switch.
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You may be able to find a suitable ignition-switched supply somewhere more convenient than the switch. Look for a plain white wire. Or use a ballast-type coil - they do help starting if your battery is a tad weak.
Incidentally, the mystery "never been connected" white with a grey stripe wire in your photo... could that be a faded white/black? If so, it's the one between 8 (coil) and 9 (distributor) in the wiring diagram. Somebody has bypassed it with a red/yellow for reasons unknown.
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Possibly silly question - have you checked the oil level?
The idle rumble that goes when the clutch is pressed could just be the release bearing, but it might also be the off-load version of the noise when you're driving. In 4th gear, the input and main shafts are directly coupled, so none of the gears has any load on it.
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16 minutes ago, ShaunW said:
OK... Points closed, one probe on the coil +ve and one on the disconnected connector =11.4v
I'm not quite sure what you actually tested here but I don't think you were supposed to disconnect anything. The test for ballast resistor (wire) is to have points closed, ignition on, all wires connected as normal, and measure the voltage from coil +ve to ground. That will give a result of ~12V (=Vbat) if not ballasted, ~6V (Vbat/2) if ballasted and the right coil, or ~8V (2/3 Vbat) if ballasted but a non-ballast coil is fitted.
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1 hour ago, clive said:
Rob, since that RBRR I reckon fuel has changed.... I think the early cars with the louvres helped when a car was left. Maybe a fan that whirrs away for 20 mins after shutoff is the answer....
Yes, fuel has definitely changed, which I suspect is why it gave 36MPG on that one and never better than 28 in the last ten years. This doesn't seem to have affected its heat tolerance much, beyond an annoying tendency to low speed misfires when pulling away gently in traffic, although that seems more related to modern NGK plugs.
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38 minutes ago, clive said:
Failing that, there may be a reason GT6 owners have a propensity for leaving their bonnets up...
Oddly, my GT6 has never shown the slightest hint of any overheating problem. Even stuck in North Circular traffic after the hottest RBRR on record, with the gauge climbing rapidly past 3/4, it was merely "hot" and not even mildly "bothered". Unlike the occupants.
Edit: Actually there was the start of the Shakespeare's Summer Scatter, when the 50-year-old hose from the manifold to the return pipe decided to fail just as we parked up, but cutting off the split end and re-connecting made it good for another few thousand miles.
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The logic behind Danny's suggestion is that, when you let the car sit for a half hour after a run, the residual heat soaks out into places that would normally be cooled by flow of air or fuel. If the pump gets hot enough to vaporise the fuel inside, it doesn't actually pump very well. I certainly had my VItesse get into a "can't run, won't run" state on a hot day, which was instantly cured, at least for a while, by pouring a cup of cold water over the fuel pump.
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When I had a total coolant loss on the M25 in my PI (actually a burst hose but it was 11:30pm in December so the Green Flag man didn't look too closely) the chap turned up in a flat-bed and loaded the car up on the hard shoulder.
When my Toledo died on the A10 (actually a dodgy carb float valve but I didn't find that out until that year's RBRR) the Green Flag man decided that even the ten miles home was too much for a front lift tow, precisely for the reason Pete gave, and called out a flat-bed.
The one time I have had a Triumph recovered on a spectacle lift was many years back, when the Herald suffered vertical link failure. We only needed to move it about half a mile, though.
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Nice work!
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Yes, the bottom half should slide in and out of the top half, but like all things Triumph they seize up because they don't get slid very often. When I refurbished mine I clamped the upper half in a good bench vice and hammered the bottom half in a bit, then twisted it with a spanner, hammered, twisted, and eventually it freed up. If you have a spare lower coupling (or half of one) you could fit that to the bottom spline and bolt a steel bar to it to get some leverage for twisting. Plenty of PlusGas and possibly a bit of heat will also help.
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On a six, there's always the completely overkill option of two throttle bodies and a divider flap. Run it as two 3-cyl plenums at low speed, open up to a single one at high speed, to get optimum inlet tuning across the speed range. Was done on the Rover KV6 and the Vauxhall Carlton I6, among others.
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About six months after I last fitted a rebush kit to my GT6, the MOT man forced it into reverse with such gusto that he popped the spring clip off the gear-stick. I now only have an H if I pull the gear-stick up first. Could yours be similar?
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There probably is some benefit to the microsquirt for ignition only as an interim step. It would give you much better control of the advance curve, which is not stupid given how different modern fuel is from what the factory (didn't) set yours up for.
Also, gives you a chance to familiarise with the system before launching into the much harder fuel set-up.
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50 minutes ago, dougbgt6 said:
Woops! sorry about that, just bought some genuine Gibson Humbuckers for my Epiphone. Very excited,
It's OK, Doug, we understand that genuine humbuckers are exciting enough to want to post about it everywhere!
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After losing a door glass to a slightly over-enthusiastic opening of the door, my brother might have an idea why.
Alternatively, since the factory determined that a quarter-light was required on the GT6 because the Spitfire suffered from the glass bowing out at speed when a hardtop was fitted, perhaps that's a reason.
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10 hours ago, ShaunW said:
Thx NonMemeber for the grammar. You say neither is an adjective but how about the two meanings of the sentence "the dog smelled"?
Well, I could say that they're both verb forms, one active the other passive, but I'd incur the Wrath of Doug if I did...
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new to Heralds 1970 13/60
in Fuel System
Posted
Where's this "right engine number" coming from? The only reference to GE that I can see up top is the chassis number.
Photo please! I don't think there was a common Solex manifold for the 1300 so it's likely the OP has a 1200 engine.