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Posts posted by NonMember
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Technically, swapping the coil LT terminals doesn't really change the HT voltage very much, what it does is reverse the polarity of the
neutron flowspark. This will make the spark weaker. The reason is a little involved:Sparks occur due to a cascade release of electrons from the atoms in a gas. The cascade occurs because a fast moving electron can hit an atom and strip off one or two of that atom's electrons, but atoms are small targets so not all of them hit. So to get this to happen you want plenty of electrons at the start. Now the electrons are released from an electrode because of a combination of electric field and heat. The electric field must be positive relative to the electrode, because electrons are negatively charged and therefore attracted off the metal be positive field. The hotter an electrode is, the more easily it can emit electrons. So the correct way to wire a coil is such that the centre (small) electrode gets -ve HT, because it's the one that gets hot and emits electrons easily. If you wire it backwards, you're forcing the ground electrode to emit electrons, and since that's bigger and connected to the block, it tends to be colder.
(with apologies for the momentary Jon Pertwee channelling)
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With the engine stationary but ignition on, dizzy cap off, open and close the points using a plastic (non-conducting) rod (you don't want to touch it). If the LT side is all OK then you will see small sparks at the points. Big sparks means the condenser's failed. No spark probably means a bad connection so the coil isn't charging. Although Pete's bulb method is also useful for this.
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Or post a photo, because sometimes the appearance is a give-away. But the number is better if it's available.
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Are you referring to the bottom semi-flex coupling that attaches the column to the rack? If so, I think it's the same part across most of the range. Certainly I couldn't see any difference between the Toledo one and the Spitfire. Rimmers seem to list the same part number, too (although marked NLA and with a UJ replacement alternative).
As an alternative, I did a write up of refurbishing your existing one. It's not that hard.
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My GT6 has the front plate where it should be, so only really gets hot in traffic, but that location does make the plate vulnerable to grass verges when three-point-turning after getting the navigation wrong on a 12-car. I'll try to avoid that tomorrow...
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A bit of valve noise is not uncommon, and a LOT easier to live with than the consequences of not having enough clearance. That said, if you had valve noise when there was no clearance it suggests something else is up.
You could try the stethoscope method. Run the engine (at idle only) with the rocker cover off. Poke a bit of rubber tube in your ear and point the other end at the top of each valve in turn. You should be able to identify which valves are noisy. Those are the ones to re-check and look at the condition of the rockers.
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If you have UKC5664 (or, for that matter, the earlier design that looked similar) there should be a wrinkle clip thing (not shown in the diagram) fitted inside it. That's what prevents the rotation of the outer column. If it's missing, or worn flat so it's loose, then you need something to tighten it up. That's probably why a DPO has bodged the screws in there.
I don't think the bottom mount does much against rotation as the felt pad prevents it clamping tightly.
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It is a few years since I last had to use Anglian Radiators but they were very helpful when I did. Good to hear they're still recommended.
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When my brother owned my Spitfire, it had air horns fitted. One evening, as he was driving along Oxfordshire country lanes towards mum's house, there was a loud BANG! followed by a constant death rattle. He pulled over, stopped the engine and popped the bonnet but, as it was night time and pitch black in the middle of nowhere, he couldn't see a thing. He walked the remaining two miles to mum's, borrowed mum's car, drove back and towed the Spitfire in. But in the time it took him to do that, some scumbag had smashed the driver's window with a block of wood that had been in the unlocked boot.
The next day, we had a look under the bonnet and the cause of the bang and the death rattle became obvious. The compressor for the air horns had fallen off its mount, swung across on the plumbing, and smacked into the fan.
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42 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:
Syou realy need to check if you have a 12v ign or a ballasted 6v
A meter on the coil feed with points open should tell you
I think you mean "with points closed". The ballast is just a resistor; if the points are open there is no load and the coil feed will show 12V regardless.
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I don't think the valves will hit the pistons on a standard small Triumph engine. The slant ones do, and engines with non-standard (high lift) cams or raised compression might.
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If they're rotoflex ones, turning the hub by hand and listening carefully for scraping noises will show up really bad surfaces. Check also for end float. You can identify scrappers and do-not-fit-as-is cases. Telling a good one from a will-do-at-a-push is rather harder.
If they're swing axle ones, the inner bearing surface is already shot, that's why they're cheap
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You only need a duplex chain if the stress is too much for a simplex, in the long term. The amount of stress on the timing chain depends entirely on what it's driving, which is just the distributor and eight cam lobes. If you're revving very high, and thus need strong valve springs, the contribution of each cam lobe is increased.
The factory fitted the duplex chain only on the 2.5 engines. In the case of the 2500S/TC this was a total waste of time. The reason for it was the engine's origin on the TR5 - relatively high revving, twelve cam lobes, and the PI regulator to boot.
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The square steel plate is an adaptor to allow the SU bolt holes to mate to a Stromberg manifold.
The other bit is possibly a heat barrier. It looks like it's made of something like asbestos?
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That last photo looks like the oil control ring wasn't fitted quite right - possibly jammed and not as effective as it should be. That might tie up with burning a bit of oil.
I don't think a 1500 needs a duplex chain. It's not a naturally revvy engine so you'll not need heavy valve springs.
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A horn that just goes click will often respond to a tweak of the adjuster but if it took out the other horn too then you may need to check the quality of your wiring.
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11 hours ago, Anglefire said:
Yes 20/50 - Castrol GTX from memory.
I have bought some Millers Oils Classic Pistoneeze 20W-50 in preparation for the next change - though will probably be a little while yet as I need to get some miles on the engine!
Admittedly I haven't tried it recently but I always found Castrol GTX too thin for the Triumphs. The original Duckhams was good but the new stuff seems less so. I did run Penrite in the PI and Toledo (which were both "well used" engines) but on the GT6 the cold pressure is too high, so that gets Millers. I think the Vitesse has the thinner Penrite in at the moment, which seems to suit her.
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Hmm... without knowing the condition of the chassis I'd hesitate to completely condemn that... but it would be a big labour of love
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5 hours ago, dougbgt6 said:
What came off mine was copper, or copper/nickel. It's illegal in some countries, because of the brittle issue? I don't know.
As I understand it, the copper/nickel alloy suffers much less from work hardening than pure copper, so it's recommended to always use the alloy for brake or clutch pipes.
Of course, the factory went for plastic clutch pipes on all the later models (Dolomites and the like)
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My instinct aligns with Dick's son's advice
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1 minute ago, Pete Lewis said:
you left out CV drive shaft conversions ....why were these not original .they were available in the day.
Cost. And perceived need. CV joints are essential if you want to get your drive round a significant angle, like in a FWD application. In the 1960s they were still expensive and not required for the small angles a GT6 rear shaft needs, which a cheap rubber doughnut could handle. These days, of course, 99% of the market is FWD so CV joints are mass-produced and cheap, which the proper compound Rotoflex is a highly specialist corner case that costs loads...
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Are you sure the slave is right? There are a few different bores and a couple of different master bores. I used to have poor clutch performance on the Vitesse and cured it with a slightly smaller bore slave.
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42 minutes ago, dougbgt6 said:
NM,
There are many who also think silicone fluid the Devils handy work, a consumable or not. They reject it for the same reasons.
No, they reject it for completely different reasons. I've never yet met someone who said silicon brake fluid was bad because it's not original. Plenty who think it's compressible or have weird theories about what water does.
I would have fitted a bimetallic voltage stabiliser to the... actually, now I think about it, it was the Toledo, so not even one of my current fleet. But yes, I WOULD have fitted a bimetallic one if it had been available, and it WOULD have worked better than the crap that was on the market, and I would NOT have had to get it replaced (for free, TRGB were quite open about the problems) within a month.
water temp out of radiator
in Cooling System
Posted
My SO has a Yaris auto. Deadly dull, no performance at all although, rather like the Toledo I had for a while, you don't always notice lack of performance here in flatland. Unlike the Toledo, the Yaris is utterly reliable and very practical.
On our recent CTD Scotland trip, there were three MX5s and a Celica imposting among the Triumphs. All boringly reliable, although the Celica has a wicked turn of speed hidden behind that dull facade.