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Everything posted by NonMember

  1. If you're doing a permanent change of distributor, yes. However, Bob was asking about a solution for a spare being carried for a quick road-side swap. I'd suggest fiddling with the drive gear is not really something you want to do on a muddy layby in the dark and wind and rain.
  2. D S Thompsett on Fen Road Chesterton - he did my Spitfire full interior including recovering the seats.
  3. Because the controls ought to swap sides with RHD/LHD so that the indicators are available to the hand that isn't operating the gearstick. Admittedly most car makers these days can't be arsed with doing that properly and just build all their RHD cars with LHD controls, but Triumph weren't that lazy. (Actually, I think some of the Japanese car makers still put the indicators on the right in their home market.)
  4. Err... no. That nut holds the hub onto the drive shaft, a joint that must carry the full torque of the engine multiplied by the gearing. The wheel bearings are set to the correct end-float using shims. The centre nut of the front, undriven wheels is, indeed, a wheel bearing nut that you pinch up and back off a tad.
  5. But you're only changing the torque required to achieve a certain outcome, not the torque that's available. So you will be accelerating slower with a 3.27 at the point where you break your gearbox, but if your driving style involves that much acceleration then you'll break the gearbox just as quickly on a 3.89 - you'll just be launching yourself into a ditch rather faster when you do so. People don't drive to a very specific acceleration when using all the power they've got, they only do that when constrained (e.g. by the car in front), and that's not the condition where you break things.
  6. I'd expect the indicator stalk to swap sides on LHD, which wouldn't make a difference to the early type but I think the late type stalk is bent, so it would need to be bent the other way? Just a guess.
  7. NonMember


    My experience back in the '90s was that my Triumphs all liked Duckhams and ran happily on it day in day out, but Castrol GTX would piss out all over the place and never produce good oil pressure.
  8. If you're anywhere near at risk of stalling then you're using minimal torque for your pull-away. It's WAYYY less than you're subjecting it to in a traffic light grand prix. If you are trying to spin the wheels then the torque down the drive line is, as I said, not affected by the diff ratio until the diff itself, where it's less on a 3.27 The only possible caveat is that you might, due to the reduced torque at the wheels, be able to put more torque through without breaking traction, if you're being a hooligan.
  9. Why? The torque available at the flywheel, through the gearbox and down the propshaft is unaffected by diff ratio. The torque on the diff's internals and the drive shafts will be less with a 3.27 than any of the other diffs.
  10. Bit of a thread drift? Technically, no, but the 063 fits and works well, as long as you turn it round so the terminals are at the rear.
  11. NonMember


    Somebody asked about Mannol on (probably) the other club's forum, it being readily available in Austria. None of us knew anything about it.
  12. I really, really don't understand why you think it's sensible to arrange the test bulb so that it can't be in circuit when you want the overdrive to work. That just seems utterly bonkers, given that it's the overdrive NOT WORKING that you're trying to diagnose. Connect your test bulb directly across the solenoid - you can do so with a nice long pair of wires so the bulb itself is in the cabin, but you MUST leave the wiring of the solenoid in the condition you expect to work and ONLY ADD diagnostic probes that don't interfere with that. The tests you've done are not testing for all the possible electrical issues. They fail to check for resistive connections, intermittent contacts, tired wires and other stuff. Do the test properly, as I've described, and you actually can say, for certain, "there's power to the solenoid but the overdrive's not working". From what you've done, you can't.
  13. In my (admittedly limited) experience, features like the grills tend to get painted more carefully and get a proper wet finish, meaning they don't suffer as much orange peel as the large flat areas.
  14. Right, just to confirm: The bulb is wired directly across the solenoid and ONLY across the solenoid. It's not connected, say, from the switch to a good ground, or anything meaningless and irrelevant like that. THIS MATTERS!!! Look up "Three Mile Island nuclear disaster" if you don't believe me. And it's not wired in series, either, because that's not a test, it's a guarantee of the solenoid not working. Have you done the clonk test as I described, with a wire directly to the solenoid? Yes, you do have to crawl under the car to do this but you have changed the solenoid so you've been under there. I can assure you that a J-type solenoid makes a fair clonk when held in your hand or mounted to a dry gearbox, but it would probably be well masked by the soundproofing that stops you hearing the noise of the gearbox when driving.
  15. If he thinks an 11mm spanner fits it then it's probably 7/16" AF which would be a 1/4" UNF nut.
  16. If this is a Mk1 Vitesse engine then I also tried two gaskets on mine at one point. It's not because the manifold's not flat, in my case, but rather a combination of modern gaskets being a tad thin and the clamping method being highly sensitive to any difference in the flange thickness of the inlet and exhaust manifolds. I think I ended up filing the inlet down a fraction to make them match, and I've not had any trouble since.
  17. Re-fit the spacer you left out. Then it won't engage on the ring gear until it's meant to.
  18. NonMember


    In my Vitesse I use Penrite 20W60 because I know it's a good oil and it stays tolerably clean and still gives good oil pressure for the whole year (OK, sometimes a tad more) between changes. In the GT6 I don't use that. I've used Morris 20W50 and Fuzz Townshend's Classic Oils 20W50 and both seem perfectly decent. The reason I don't use Penrite is purely that the GT6 has never suffered low oil pressure since I rebuilt the engine and blueprinted the pump, 30 years ago. On the contrary, when cold it suffers from excessive oil pressure, so the thinner spec works better. It used to really like Duckhams Hypergrade 15W50 but that's not been available for quite some time.
  19. I have a tubular manifold on the Spitfire because it's had an engine transplant (1500 instead of 1300) and I didn't have the correct cast manifold, which has a reputation for downpipe gasket problems anyway. The tubular was an economical option for a reliable solution. When I had a TR7 it was already fitted with a tubular manifold, although that wasn't in great condition and I had to replace it with another one. However, that car had a Sprint engine, for which the correct cast manifold is rarer than rocking horse manure. Those are the only two of the dozen Triumphs I've owned that I've changed the manifold on. Unless the cast one is broken, it works well enough on a moderately standard car.
  20. Similar to mine, where xxx is in the first quartile.
  21. When I was young my mum had an early Renault 5. The #1 spark plug was so far under the bulkhead that you had to drop the engine to remove it.
  22. It used to be fairly standard practice amongst what are now known as the "ice road truckers" to light a bonfire under the engine while they had breakfast. One major US diesel engine maker, unaware of this, began to fit plastic sumps (for cost and weight saving). That was not a desirable combination.
  23. Once you've swapped it out, it should be easy to close off one end of the pipe (I think the LH/back has a T so hose from one outlet to the other) and put a garden hose on the other end. Mains water pressure is higher than the 7PSI the engine gets to so your leak will show up as a fine spray, probably, or a rapidly building drip. Either should be easy to spot.
  24. I always reckoned that two years was about right for DOT4. I use DOT5 though, so I don't really know.
  25. One of the things I like about my "modern" (a 2006 Ford Mondeo) is that it has an electrically heated windscreen. On a properly frosty morning I start the engine, turn on both screen heaters, scrape the side windows and back, by which time the front screen has pretty much cleared itself and will remain fog-free as I drive off. And that despite all the symptoms of a missing thermostat (the engine doesn't get warm before I get to work, or even on a drive to Cambridge in winter).
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