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Posts posted by NonMember
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4 hours ago, Stratton Jimmer said:
The choke mechanism on the GT6 (HS4) has a return spring which I'm guessing the PO fitted.
You mean, an additional one over and above the return spring that was fitted as standard?
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1 hour ago, Colin Lindsay said:
Easiest step was fitting the bootlid, but still scary. Yes, I could set it in place on a new bootlid seal, and it looked great. However, lifting it sufficiently to get hinges bolted into place was a bit of a nightmare, as it had a tendency to slide about.
Very true. When I fitted my Spitfire's boot lid, the fuel tank was not present, so I could place it in situ then reach through from the cabin to fit the hinge nuts. Not so easy on a Herald.
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2 hours ago, tim smallshaw said:
the garage insisted the Spitfire wheels should be tubed
I had exactly the opposite - my GT6's alloys are porous and it needs tubes to hold pressure, but the lad at my local tyre centre insisted it was illegal to fit tubes (at least until his dad came out and told him not to be a *&$£").
As Josef and Pete said, the factory never fitted tubes on standard wheels (they probably did on wires) as they are of a tubeless spec, albeit not the current one.
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The bowden cable shouldn't need a retaining clip because it should (at least in theory) always be under tension. However, as Pete says, the jet linkage is well known for getting slightly bent and then sticking. This is what you hear with the "click" and it's also what causes all the other symptoms.
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4 hours ago, Keith Nock said:
No its not its a Mk3 GT6
So my point stands, that it's not the right car, since Sandy has a Spitfire Mk3
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Note the Keith's photo is of a Mk4 - the Mk3 exhaust runs the other side of the diff.
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No, sorry, no experience of over-painting it.
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1 hour ago, cliff.b said:
I tried a couple of clear coats and they just destroyed the finish, leaving it looking dull.
1 hour ago, cliff.b said:It's probably more like the finish of the plastic screen trim.
That pretty much accords with my experience of "chrome effect" paint. It goes on OK but looks like dull cast aluminium or, if lucky, rough finish stainless. And then it rubs off on anything that touches it. And it pickles if you apply clear coat.
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They definitely produced a dedicated parts catalogue for the Mk3, and my reprint of the GT6 & Vitesse WSM doesn't cover the Mk3 at all, so there probably should have been one. However, I've never seen one and, as johny says, they probably only issued a supplement pack.
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My gut tells me those are swapped. The WSM is unhelpful as the drawing appears to show both seats the same, and clearly they aren't. It's easy on the later seats as the tilt release handle must be on the sill side, but Mk3 ones have it central on the seat.
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10 hours ago, owensparrow said:
there is no fuel in the "choke pipe" between the carbs, so I believe this is part of the problem,
From your description, I'd say that's the whole of the problem - the choke mechanism isn't working. It is very easy to assemble that perforated washer bit wrongly, or get something blocked inside it. Pete's ideas are all good things to check but I'd expect them all to affect normal running, not just cold start.
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16 minutes ago, peterthegreat said:
Has anyone else has experienced with this issue of seat rake?
My Mk3 Spitfire's original driver's seat had got far worse than that! The back was literally broken and the PO (my brother!) had been using a cushion to compensate. I replaced both seats with Mk4 ones many years ago.
Much more recently, my GT6's driver's seat developed a similar severe rake (it's an adjustable type but wasn't holding a consistent angle). On stripping it down, I found that the frame had split in two places. A simple repair with a bit of welding, then a new set of foams and covers, and it's good as new.
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As Pete says, hanger from the diff nose plate, there should be a bolt hole there.
The rear-most hanger attaches to a small bit of bent metal on the boot floor, rear right corner. If that's not there you can drill a hole and bolt a bit of angle on. The exact position I would need to crawl under and measure, or it might be easier to fit the exhaust temporarily and work it out.
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30 minutes ago, Iain T said:
I just want to drive it now!
Mine is missing the front aluminium bumper bits. I have a set but the valance got replaced with a GRP one and its not a good shape match so the bumpers just don't fit. Driving it is more important than sorting that out.
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1 hour ago, DJB350Z said:
At the moment it's like there's nothing fixing it in place along the top edge.
I don't think there's very much holding the top edge, as the bolts are all lower down. It possibly hooks on the edge of the headlamp bowl, though.
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5 minutes ago, Sandy Gibson said:
Just never got used to taking it out other than locally.
Get it out there! They're far more fun when you go to new places in them.
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I think all Spitfires should have a telescopic prop, apart from maybe some very late 1500s that got a CV type.
The fixed and and strap type propshafts were fitted to Heralds.
You should be able to compress and expand the prop a little, but it may need a bit of effort as the telescopic joint may have got a bit sticky
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A cross-flow head will be more complicated to design, and probably to cast, especially for a push-rod engine. And if you really want the best advantage from it, you need the valves not to be in a single line - the TR7 engine has awkward exhaust porting because of the single cam. That makes a "proper" cross-flow, like the Sprint (or the Rover 2600 that was derived from it) quite a lot more expensive to produce. Post-war, when the Triumph SC engine was designed, it was worth it for Jaguar but not really for anyone else.
(I don't know about Bentley but Skoda built engines with four valves per cylinder way back in the 1920s)
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10 minutes ago, Nick Whitehead said:
Please can you advise me what I need. I'm assuming H4s for the outer lights and H1s for the inner?
That's what I have on my Vitesse now, although until last year it was H4 on all four, with the inner dip filaments just not connected. That's actually easier to do as the wiring is already correct - the H1s need a loom tweak.
12 minutes ago, Nick Whitehead said:Typically, do they fit within the original bowls used by the sealed beam units?
Usually, yes. There are some very poorly made units out there, though, with the locating lugs in the wrong places.
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The Spitfire Mk4 wheels were 4.5J and are the same wheel as a Mk3 GT6. Only the late 1500s got wider (5J) wheels, which are also fully compatible.
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29 minutes ago, Nearly There said:
Had all the wheels powder coated and tyres fitted to them before we realised they didn't match. Damned annoying.
I had a set of Mk3 Spitfire / Herald / Vitesse wheels powder coated before realising one of them was a 3.5J but at least I still has a correct set of four. It is annoying.
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I have a set of 4.5J wheels from a Mk3 GT6 that I don't need (although I was thinking of using them as temporary replacements while I get my Vitesse's wheels refurbished) if you felt like making an offer. I'm a bit of a long way from you, though.
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I've certainly seen silver ones but the spare I have was blue. My GT6's on is a different blue but a PO had painted the whole engine that blue so I don't think it's original.
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1 hour ago, PeteH said:
There is also the school of thought, that opines that the lack of said safety features makes the pilot more aware of their behaviour and that of others?
There was some research carried out in Scandinavia some years back, where they took drivers who admitted to not wearing seat belts and got them to drive down a runway towards some cardboard cut-out people, braking as late as they dared. When driving without a seat belt, nearly all of them stopped just short of impact. When driving with a seat belt on, nearly all of them killed the cardboard family.
Blue Gel fuel
in Fuel System
Posted
Some negative pressure is normal but it shouldn't be very much. Which crankcase breather arrangement do you have? There should be a rubber hose from the rocker cover - where does it go?