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Posts posted by NonMember
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11 hours ago, cliff.b said:
Hmm. If that was the case, how would it likely develop?
A loose bearing can move about and make a "death rattle". It's the same as the well-known startup noise and is silenced by the film of protective oil between crank pin and bearing. As long as that film is good (which usually goes with having decent oil pressure) the metal surfaces don't actually make harsh contact and all is well (and quiet). If there is a rattle it means there's impact happening, and the soft metal bearing is gradually being hammered flat, increasing the gap and making the problem worse. This process will be slow if the noise is only there at hot idle, and as long as you blip the throttle before pulling away (so that there's a bit of oil pressure before any load is applied).
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23 minutes ago, cliff.b said:
Would a bearing be quiet when oil is cooler but noisy when it gets hotter & presumably thinner?
Yes, they can, if it's "on its way out" but not yet terminal.
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It could be that it only does it when the oil's hot. Your initial 20 miles including some A1 would have got the oil warm, but not hot. The St Neots traffic followed by a bit of a blatt could get it proper hot.
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A few noises are to be expected. In particular, a bit of whine from the diff is quite normal.
However, the "whom whom whom" isn't normal, and the fact that it changes with the bend suggests wheel or half shaft. It very much depends what sort of "whom" - I had a noise on a Mk1 Vitesse that could fall into that (at the time it reminded me of the Enterprise's warp drive) which turned out to be wheel bearing failure.
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Yours are the earlier "thames barrier choke" type as fitted to Mk1 Vitesses.
The problem you are having with the new floats is, I suspect, that you've fitted it upside down.
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Also, if you're not quite sure which part fits, then don't ask Rimmers. They aren't nearly as knowledgable as Canley, Paddocks, Fitchetts, Witor, TRGB, etc.
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12 minutes ago, cliff.b said:
The manifold is standard but I'm not certain if the downpipe that connects to it is.
When I was underneath checking if anything was knocking I looked at the sump with a view to removing it and I don't think it would be a problem.
You're probably OK - I think the twin downpipe on a standard manifold is aligned one in front of the other, so it's quite narrow, whereas most 4-2-1 manifolds try to equalise lengths by bringing one of the pipes inward to tuck neatly under the sump flange. Mine certainly does.
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6 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:
the sump off on the 4 cyl from going under is quite easy
On a standard one, yes, but if you have a tubular manifold fitted (as I think Cliff has) then some of the bolts are rather inaccessible and the space for removal is decidedly tight.
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1 hour ago, daverclasper said:
Was that the only damage?
Yes, unless you count the (somewhat subsequent) big end failure that may have been seeded by the thrashing. The pistons on our cars are fairly sturdy and much less likely to melt than a motorbike engine, especially in the very mild Toledo tune.
I was partially responsible for about half a dozen cars with all four pistons melted through, some years back. A software bug that made the ECU react to a failed turbo boost control pipe (not fitted properly on the production line) by whacking up to huge overboost but only fuelling for the expected level. But that was a 200HP (when running normally) 16V turbo engine.
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28 minutes ago, cliff.b said:
Just thinking if a loose flywheel could contribute to this?
Yes, the same way that worn out thrust washers do. If there's play in the flywheel then it will push the clutch release bearing further back than normal. When you press the clutch, the flywheel takes up the first bit of movement, causing extra "lost motion" and the need to push the clutch further down before it operates.
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Sounds good, and not too early a start for me.
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23 minutes ago, Iain T said:
My blueprinted oil pump is 80-90psi when cold and 65-70 when hot at around 3000rpm and never less than about 30 at tick over.
That sounds like what I get from my GT6, using a pump that I "toleranced" (certainly can't claim blueprinted) myself some 30 years (and several RBRRs) ago. Of course, the NOS crankshaft I fitted at the time also helps.
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8 minutes ago, trigolf said:
I see it's fitted with a stainless exhaust system, which from what I can see in the pics looks like the correct pattern for a 2L Mk1.
Actually it looks "not quite right" to me. It has the centre silencer but it appears to be further back than it should be, and the rear part of the exhaust then all sits too far to the right.
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15 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:
inertia reel can be very self tightening due to the choppy ride of the car
Yes, indeed, and this has always been a big problem on my GT6, which is why the Spitfire and Vitesse still have static belts.
15 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:yes its much easier to get at the ignition switch
No, it makes it impossible because the belt has tightened and locked you into your seat - see above.
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41 minutes ago, cliff.b said:
Not even sure I need to replace the old ones yet. How long do they usually last in our cars if all set up ok?
19 minutes ago, dougbgt6 said:On the other hand I had a misfire which turned out to be a plug, only done 2K!
I think it depends a lot on the car. Of my three, the only one that "gets through" plugs is the GT6. That's also the only one that's been properly set up. It also won't run at all on Champion - it must be NGK and they must be renewed annually. The other two really don't care and keep going just fine on whatever they had fitted five years ago.
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15 hours ago, Jase1969 said:
It's not that difficult to be honest, you need to take your time and it is all about the prep.
Absolutely! As a first timer, I was able to get a tolerable coverage and no runs or sags, but not a good gloss from the gun. Had my brother allowed me to take the time to flat the primer properly before doing the top coat, we could have polished it to a "perfectly acceptable" state. Because he rushed us, his Spitfire always had horrible orange peel.
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1 hour ago, PeteH said:
My only experience with Lucas PI, was towing a TR6 up and down the car deck of a RoRo Ferry, In Imminghan, in an attempt to get it to start for the ships electrician.
My experience of my PI estate, when it had a slightly tired fuel pump, was that while jump starting might well work, the bump method was a waste of time. The fuel pump would fail to deliver adequate pressure well before the battery was flat enough not to crank.
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1 hour ago, Jonah said:
its odd because all bulbs are 12v yet the difference is illuminating!!
Have you inspected all the bulbs? The size of the gauge and the condition of the paint inside it do make a difference, but if most of your gauges haven't had their bulbs replaced recently they're probably quite badly "silvered" (from evaporated filament metal) and won't be putting out nearly as much light as they're meant to.
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53 minutes ago, johny said:
My mk1 2L suffered rapid closing of some exhaust valve tappet clearances after driving on the continent with badly leaking carb spindles (one worse than the other).
Probably running weak and at high load, which is the same conditions that caused VSR on my Toledo.
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Yes, it's certainly possible to dim a bulb with a series resistor, but fitting a lower wattage bulb is more efficient. Or you could replace all the very tired and heavily silvered bulbs in the other instruments with new ones that actually give out some light. 😉
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I was told (by an elderly Riley enthusiast) that what I was removing was the nave plate and the hub cap was the thing behind it. His definition was that a true "hub cap" seals the hub so the grease doesn't fly out (and our cars do have such a cap on the front hubs) whereas a nave plate is mostly decorative but probably hides the wheel nuts. I've found some support for that but most just fall back on the old "American" excuse.
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51 minutes ago, micmak said:
I would assume there is no memory on these valves as the engine has been fully rebuilt.
If it's been recently rebuilt - and the valves were renewed - by any competent shop, I'd rather hope they used hardened valves and seats, thus making it an unleaded compatible head.
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Like Clive, Pete and Graham, I have done many miles on many Triumphs with original valves and no additives. The only one that suffered any valve recession was the Toledo - when driven on the RBRR, 2000 miles in 48 hours, fully loaded, with a faulty float valve that meant it was running seriously lean, and thrashed to make up the time lost to diagnosing that.
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3 hours ago, trigolf said:
What's puzzling is why Gunson didn't do a suitable size cap in their kit years ago?
Years ago, they did. My first Eezibleed (in the late 1980s) had a cap that fitted. The later ones didn't.
Worrying noise
in Engine
Posted
You'd certainly expect that but in my experience it has always been number 3 that fails (on the four cylinder). I've no idea why.