Dolomitejohn

Guys, wow what a great response. I am not sure who said it, but I decided to get it repaired locally. £25 - £30 at a company called Warwick Radiators in Coventry. Should see me through . Thanks all. John

Thanks johny It's got 2 tiny cracks where it has been creased. If you can imagine it's been jacked up using a 3 inch square block which has crushed the base and bulged it out front and rear. Shall I use ordinary tin solder? It's clean or can be cleaned and I have a gas lamp and plenty of solder. Thanks Johny

Hi all Thought my rad was OK despite some previous owner muppet having jacked the car up using the rad. But alas its leaking. Can't afford a new one..... I am near gaydon in Warwickshire. Cheers all. John

What's the bit on right? Mine does not have this...

Humm You made me thin though. The bolt had a 3 or 4 mm diameter round splodge / patch on the thread. So I guess the bot was originally a patch lock bolt. I think I will do belt and braces. Its only a 30 min job...... Thanks Pete for making me think again. I don't know why I overlooked it even though I spotted the atch on the bolt. John

Hi Pete. The bolt was very tight but managed to get it out. (been going to gym!). I still have opportunity to remove it again and add some locktite. Do you think I should do this? Tunnel is not back in yet so quite easy to do. Cheers pete John

Hi all Thanks for the good advice. It's all back together now. I did not apply any locktite to the square head bolt so hope it holds. But the shift feels nice. Just want it back on the road now so I can test it.... John

Hi everyone. Whilst my gt6 mk3 is in bits I am wondering on which is the best mechanical fan for shifting air. I know the spitfires in usa had a viscous unit and fan and that dolomite sprints and some 2000 2500 have them. But what about gt6? I quite like the viscous fans. I think they sound quite cool ( no pun intended) but are also smoother and more efficient than a fixed to crank pulley job. Thoughts? Cheers all. John

Hi All. Hear I go again...... Where do you guys get the 2 brackets required to hold the rear Wheel Barrow silencers to the floor of the car (GT6) I have a Rimmers fitting kit and it contains 2 very thick rubber blocks with holes in. One end attaches to the silencer, but there is no 90 Deg bracket to attach to the boot floor. I know I could use some dexion or similar, but thought there may be a dedicated stainless part. Thanks All. John

Hi all I have just fitted a rebuild kit to my gear remote on the gt6 mk3. I have 2 issues. 1) the kit contained 2 red fibre washers. The Haynes book does not show these and also there were no fibre washers removed. Any ideas? 2) the metal spring washer that holds on the plastic ball and small spring was a bugger to get off. However the replacement had to be slid and tapped down the shaft of the gear stick. By the time it reached its slot it was bigger than the slot. I had to pinch it into the slot using pliers. It's mostly there but not as snug as the original. What should I do? Fit a spring clip?? If yes what size? Any ideas? Thank you all. John.

Hi everyone. I am still getting to know my new gt6 but have noticed that from cold the engine sounds quiet. However as it warms up I can can hear the tappets ( I assume tappets). Its not just an isolated tap it's the entire top end. Is this a rebuild situation or an adjustment or an oil feed to top end job ( the extra oil supply pipe kit). Thanks all. John

Hi everyone, Has anyone got a photo of the heater ducts / pipes, Y pieces, lower eyeballs etc on a mk3 gt6 in position. I have no idea how to route these. Thanks in advance John

Hi all. Managed to get ducts and vents but still looking for a heater box ( not matrix or motor). Cheers John

Hi everyine Anyone going to Stoneleigh who has spare gt6 mk3 heater box, ducts(pipes) lower eyeballs & brackets, Y pieces and any other bits associated? I don't need matrix, valve, quadrants or motor. Cheers if you can help and bring it with you. John

Hi everyone. I am looking for a gt6 mk3 heater box, ducts (hoses) hose clips, Y pieces, lower eyeballs, and associated brackets. I don't need the motor, screen vents, control quadrants or the matrix (assuming the matrix can be removed from the box). Am going to Stoneleigh spares show on 10th Feb if you can help... Thanks John

Hi nonmember Thanks. I thought it probably did I just hadn't checked it out many thanks. I will check tonight. John

Yes mine has a castle nut and I also marked nut and spindle with tippex so I should just be able to do back up. Thanks guys. John

Hi all I have recently purchased a mimosa yellow gt6 mk3, reg MFD 43L. Purchased from high Wycombe in Nov. He had owned it since 2015. Prior to that it seems to have been round the rugby, Daventry area. Last used in 1999 and came with old Tssc valuations, tax disc holder and some old courier mags. Seemed a Mr fox was a previous owner. Seems to have had some mot repairs in past along with new rear wings and a replacement bonnet (previously red bonnet). Been assembled badly trim wise and heater pipes and y pieces missing.. Anyone know anything about it? Cheers John

Hi All Just removed my transmission cover to find some rather perished gearbox mounts. However they are stretched forward by at least half the diameter of the mounts. (i.e. the engine and gearbox have slid forward. If I fit new mounts they too will be stretched forward. Is there adjustment in the engine mounts or is it a sign that the engine mounts are also shot (they look old but ok to me). Any ideas ? Thanks all. John

Hi All, Quick question re my "stood for 20 years" GT6 MK3. Having purchased the car in nov it has been stood in my garage whilst I sort the engine and electrics. One thing I have noticed is that it is not dripping oil from the Engine, Diff or gearbox. My Restored Sprint on the other hand drips from every orifice despite having all new seals etc. The engine is fine, so decided to check the oil level in the diff. It took 1/2 litre. Was much quieter when I drove it down the road. However it started dripping. LOTs of dripping from the front flange. Today I removed the exhaust and prop and then the diff flange (Castle nut). The flange seems in good condition. But here is my question. With the flange removed the splined pinion flange in the diff has huge amount of side movement when I wiggle it. Refitting the flange (without nut) eliminates this. Also before I removed the flange there was no movement. So is the pinion bearing a taper roller and therefore this slop with flange removed normal and correct ? I guess I am going to find the same with the gearbox although this is bone dry around the output flange and speedo drive, whereas the diff area was covered in oil. Thoughts ? Thanks all. John

Hi All. Following on from my Nightmare Electrics post below where lots of good advice was posted (thanks all), I have managed to get everything working except the reversing lights. Having checked the fuses and the wiring and bulbs at the rear of the car I decided to remove the tunnel (need to come out anyway) to check the reverse switch connections.....only to find no wiring to the switch. I understand the circuit and can make my own new harness but my question is ........where is the gearbox harness connected to ? I can see any unused connectors under the dash. The only spare connections I have found are: 1) black wire by passenger door A post. Round female bullet connector. 2) 2 female round bullet connectors under bonnet just above fuel pump. I have not yet checked the colour of these or shorted them together to see what happens. Thoughts??? Thanks John

Hi ian thanks. I see I actually have the little bracket that the light is in but on mine the odo trip knob is attached to it but just dangling..... I will. Go check again this afternoon and see if I can at least get one of the 2 in the correct place... Thanks ian John

Hi doug Thanks. Trouble is I have no hose duct brackets, only 3 duct hoses, no y pieces and no shelf on drivers side. Good job Stoneleigh triumph show coming up.... Think I am going to need some help or photos of how things go. The parts book is too schematic like..... John

Hi all Anyone know where the interior light *(drivers footwell) fits on a mk3 gt6? Also the odometer reset knob bracket. Mine are just hanging down. I am missing most of the heater ducts and right hand parcel shelf so sure if that's reason there appears to be nowhere to fit them. Thanks all. John

I think wires in my backside would be shocking..........but probably less painful than trying to get the car electrics working. Managed to get all 4 hazards working tonight. Fitted old spare Dolomite switch (removed the Dolly Bezel). Also Dodgy bulb holder in rear and the bullet connections at base of steering column were misbehaving. Checked all the fuse contacts. All ok. Then I tried to get the indicators to work. Only left working when switched turned on for right. Checked the wire colours at base of column where switch harness joined main harness. All matched as per the haynes manual. Then I swapped the LEFT & RIGHT main harness wires over at base of column and managed to get right indicators working when switch turned to right. But left not working. I then removed the column switch and could see the copper track was damaged for left switching area...... New switch ordered...... Brakes lights briefly worked and reverse lights still dead. So I am getting there slowly. With all this investigation behind the dash I have realised that I have a lot of missing heater ducts, Y pieces, brackets, RH shelf etc etc under the dash. This will probably tax me more than the wiring.......Good job the Local Stoneleigh Triumph spares day is approaching soon. Oh joy. John