Ian Cooper

Standard airbox and filters, I'm trying to stay as close to original as possible.

Hi Pete. The fuel is coming out of the main carb throat. I hear the rubber slivers debate but thought I'd done as much a I could to avoid fuel contamination, tank has been cleaned and coated inside, all fuel pipes and hoses are brand new and I've fitted an additional fuel filter before the new fuel pump, the carburettors have been cleaned and rebuilt professionally but I suppose it is still possible I have that problem. I accept I can't fully clean the plugs without a 'good run' but as I say she often starts first or second pull I just can't understand the variation between Good and Abysmal, today she started really well First off but after a couple of hours total no go???? I have the CDS valve on the front carb. The throttle blipping only kicks in just after I've finished pulling my hair out and I suspect that's the cause of the flooding. Thanks again Pete. Ian

Hi all thanks for responding. I can confirm it's a standard carb/inlet setup but a S/S tubular exhaust (not a performance upgrade just std setup). I haven't taken it for a run as it's not finished, no bonnet, doors, tailgate, interior as yet, but I do run it fully up to temp before shutting down. Ian

Hi again. My GT6 Mk2 restoration is progressing quite well but I have starting issues which are a little infuriating. Rebuilt engine, rebuilt carbs, electronic ignition. Sometimes I jump in, turn the key and she fires straight away (no choke, a microscopic amount of throttle). Sometimes that doesn't work so I give her a small amount of choke and off she roars. Sometimes neither of those work, full choke doesn't work, but it sounds as if it's interested. Sometimes a small amount of choke sees her 'catch', rev up and then die, after which she turns into a pig (best then to come back the following day coz she ain't going to go. My feeling is that it's a temperature thing because she lives in an 'integrated garage which never really gets cold. I just can never tell which of the above outcomes I'm going to get, so when it fires first pull I think ah sorted then the next time I can end up cranking away with little or no interest. When she is running she's great, picks up well idles a little rough until fully warm then fine. If I try to start with lots of throttle, or blipping the pedal, I just get gallons of fuel all over the floor from the air cleaner box. Any hints clues or even bollockings very welcome, anything that gets me to consistency. Cheers Ian

Hi. I'm about to refit the glazing on my GT6 and read the recent pieces on fitting the windscreen rubber. It made me wonder if anyone has tried Waxoyle instead of sealant? In my head it seems a good option, it should lubricate the seal to glass, to aide seating, and in theory, as it doesn't 'set', should make it water tight. Any thoughts?? Ian

Thanks Colin, now why didn't Triumph include that simple line in their docs?? Ian

Hi. Thanks once again folks, pretty much what I guessed, just don't understand why there's no simple explanation in any documentation?

Hi, I need to ask a dumb question. My CD150s have the single 'cold start/choke' on the front carb, with connecting pipe to the rear carb, There is a 'press and twist' Summer/Winter screw but try as I might I cannot find a simple instruction for this two position screw, in the official workshop, Haynes workshop or GT6 handbook. My guess is push in and twist (90°) for 'Summer' and twist and release (out) for 'Winter' but it could be the opposite. I don't understand why this is not stated clearly anywhere, that I can find, and an explanation of what is actually happening, when operated, would be good? Any light would be helpful. Thanks Ian

Thanks again guys. Just find it hard to believe Rimmers would supply something which is plainly not fit for purpose, don't we have 'Trade Descriptions'??? Cheers Ian

Hi. I recently fitted a new fuel tank level sender with nylon float, supplied by Rimmers. The sender works but in looking inside the tank I noticed the rubber washer/ring, which I'm guessing is simply to prevent knocking when the tank is near empty, had detached from the float. The first time it happed I thought maybe I'd dislodged it when installing the float, but it has happed again. I've tried to refit the rubber ring when it's 'soaked in petrol and it just falls off, it's way too big. If I let it dry off its a tight fit so the conclusion is the rubber is swelling due to petrol. Rimmers sent a sender to tank seal when I explained the problem but thats completely the wrong item (goes nowhere near the 'float'). Has anyone else come across this rubber ring swelling and did they manage to source a fuel resistent replacement please?? Ian

Hi everyone. I'm reassembling a 1970 Mk2 Triumph GT6 some of which I took apart and some of which a 'bodyshop' took apart about six years ago and they are no longer in business. I have a bag with the identity tags in, the big one is obvious and is fitted on the passenger side beneath the bonnet, it's the main identity/spec plate for the car but the second plate I have no idea where it was taken from. By the colour of it it must be a fairly clean location possibly on the inside of the cab area (possibly on the inner sill/footwell, both of which were replaced). Has anyone got an idea where this goes please??

Hi Iain. All back together and I've carried out a few 'choke' starts and the flow, front to back carb, is now shutting off completely. This is one of those (wtf) fixes that I hate because I really can't see, apart from some cleaning, that I've actually identified and cured/repaired anything (so in my book the monster is still hiding under the bed). Can I ask another quick question, which is probably a simple "don't you know the answer" thing, sometimes when I put the battery back on and turn the key all I get is 'Click' ignition light goes out and nothing?? Bugger about taking the battery off and on several times and WHAM off she goes as if nothing in the previous five minutes ever happened?? Cheers for all the help Ian

OK Guys...I'm back. I've taken the cold start apart but I really don't know what I'm looking at (fault wise) so I'm hoping if I show you some pics you can prod me in the right direction. Any help very gratefully received. Ian

Thanks Pete. I'm trying to reason out this issue, rather than spanner it to death. I can make her start and run but clearly there should not be fuel running through the pipe when the choke is in, so I'll take a long look at cable travel before I reach for my spanners. Be a few days before I get back to it though. Cheers Ian

That's what I thought. When I said I was a Stromberg Carburetor Numpty I wasn't joking....Poppet valves???Ian Ian

Hi Folks. I fitted a clear pipe to deliver fuel from the front to rear carb and I've noticed fuel running between the two carbs even when the choke is in...is this normal? Ian

Hi Peter. That would be great but absolutely no panic on that anytime will do. Cheers Ian

Ok all. Result, nice clean start, running with just a little damp fuel on the cold start body (I'll live with that but add it to the 'snagging' list). So thank you all again. While I'm on anyone got a photograph of the Throttle return spring setup, I'm using a luggage bungy for now but it's not ideal😂. Cheers Ian

Hi all. I'm really grateful for all your help with this, logically it would appear to answer the issues, and I'll confirm after I've had a moment to go 'play'. I may have some hose knocking around but if not I'll be in touch thanks Ian. Cheers all Ian (getting a bit Monty Python with all the Ians 😁)

This sounds like it could answer the mystery and address my worry re fuel and exhaust, I'll have a play and let you know. Cheers Ian

Hi. This car was partly dismantled when I got it and there was no pipe between the carbs. Has anyone got a photograph of the connecting pipe? I had assumed that the two 'brass' tubes (sticking out between the carbs) were 'overflows' and was worried they would discharge onto the exhaust. The guy who refurbed the carbs didn't mention there was a 'connecting pipe missing??? Cheers Ian

Hi Dave 1360. Middle pic is the complete setup as it ran, there never was an enrichment pipe between the two carbs.

Hi. It's both, left to it's own devices it's a slow faltering death, if I try to blip the throttle it's pretty instant death.

Hi Pete. Thanks for responding to my post I'm really grateful for your input. As a self confessed complete numpty when it comes to the mysteries of Stromberg carbs do you think this, apparent leak, is connected to the revving up and cutting out or would you think they are one and the same issue? In my head I can't get past the fact that the engine ran quite well so spark, petrol etc., were getting it together, and I'm reluctant to do too much buggering about without a clearer idea if I'm looking at the right thing? Thanks Ian

Hi. I have an issue which I believe is connected to the 'cold start' mechanism on my 1970 GT6 Mk2. I've had the engine and the carbs rebuilt and last week I started her up for the first time. After a little fiddling with the timing she ran relatively well for a short time (electric fan was not connected so it was a brief run). After connecting the fan I started her up again (another brief run), and all seemed well. The following day I was looking to warm up the engine and it ran but then I noticed a lot of fuel around the cold start/overflow area so I switched off. I dried everything off, to try and determine where the fuel was coming from and attempted a restart. The engine fired, revved up and stopped. After several more of these attempts I gave up and looked around the leak area, everything was soakied with fuel and there was fuel on the floor. I called out the guy who rebuilt the carbs and he checked the floats and could find nothing wrong. We spun the engine and he said the leak was coming from the cold start mechanism. He took the carb away and 'fixed' the leak, but he said he couldn't find anything wrong, he said the fixing screws appeared too long and he shortened them to increase pressure on the seal. Carb refitted and the engine started and ran well several times (4/5) tick over was too fast (2200 rpm) and I started to adjust the screws to slow things up. Engine died and there was now fuel around the coldstart mechanism again (not as much as before) and so now I'm back to the engine firing, revving up and stopping??? Any ideas what's going on anyone??