Iain T

Pete, I did say I needed to drill holes, ok machine a slot, in them for the damper (air) piston! I will be using an external trunked air filter and selling the K&N pancakes. CTM Performance will be doing the head and intake manifold mods, matching etc so I need to get more cold air in but I'm not going for a hairy dragster but as much torque as I can reasonably get. To that end I will probably choose Chris Witor's 3021 camshaft. Iain

As I am playing about with the air intake on my Mk2 Vitesse I couldn't resist these stub stacks on the Rimmer website pt no RL1396ALT. By all accounts stub stacks will smooth and increase the airflow into a carburetor and as I don't have the facilities to make a pair I thought I would give them a try. They are £46.50 + vat for the pair. As to size they are made for SU HS4 carbs but as you can see the i/d is the same as a Stromberg 150 and the mounting holes are only 3mm different in pitch so I am just going to elongate the holes to suit. The two smaller holes are virtually in line so I may leave them or increase diameter by 1mm. I just need to drill new holes for the damper piston and Bob's yer uncle! They are 100mm o/d, 36.0 i/d and 16mm high, the profile resembles half a teardrop. According to my measurements that should leave about 32mm from the top of the stub to the inside of the airbox. Whether they will make any appreciable difference I don't know but 'every little helps'. Iain PS, they don't qualify as 'bling' 'cos you can't see them on the car!

As JohnD says go back to supplier of latch and say the part 'is not of merchantable quality' and quote CR Act 2015 their T&C's matter not English Law wins. If they know the law they will know they are liable. Iain

To paraphrase JFK, 'we choose to modify our cars not because it's easy but because we want to empty our bank accounts!'

Colin, true things do run away. I talked to a Healey owner who spent £30k on his engine alone and that was 10 years ago!! Iain

Good point, just do the engine change, drive it and see if it floats your boat. Iain

Hi Jean, Unless you want to drive around at 6000rpm what you really need is to wring as much torque out of the 1500 as possible with a nice wide band. Apart from getting all the basic mechanicals (obviously cheaper with a 4 pot than 6) correct Jenvey Heritage or the simpler and less expensive fuel injection system from KEE Automotive do make a difference as they not only control the fuel/air mixture but also ignition timing. Obviously before you jump in financially it's not only the engine but a o/d gearbox, new prop shaft etc to consider. The depth of technical expertise, as I have found out, in the forum should be able to guide you which ever way you go. Best of luck Iain

If you have deep enough pockets and not worried about originality fit 1500 engine do the necessary head and higher compression mods, change camshaft and exhaust system. Then for ultimate control fit Jenvey heritage throttle bodies, they look like Webers. Should be a flyer with less weight up front than 6 pot and look great! Iain

Old cars are fickle things, wear ear defenders and everything sounds fine....🎧 I went out in my Vitesse on Tuesday and was sure a new sound was coming from the diff area then the voice in my head said 'just drive the bl***y thing!' We are all paranoid about noises, engine hiccups etc it comes with the joys of classic cars. Some friends have pre WW2 era cars and it only gets worse..... Glad all seems ok Iain

Those out there with Triumph gearboxes is it normal'ish to have a noise/gear rattle under load at low revs in top? As I said given the same conditions my type 9 (rebuilt and uprated by BGH last year) rattles and if I remember my XR4i did. Iain

I would take gearbox cover off and check arm operation engine off and on, car stationary. Is there a rattle and if so does it go away when the clutch is operated? You can hear better with the cover off and then take it for another spin to see if you can identify where the noise is coming from, if you are in 3rd and low revs then accelerate does the noise still occur? Iain

Paul, silly question but has this noise occurred on first drive after seized clutch? Pete, surely end float would be an issue every time the clutch was operated and in whatever gear? Iain

I would make sure the arm moves smoothly back and forth. From memory it pivots on a ball mounted on the side of the bell housing and the arm is retained by a spring clip in a depression in the arm. Is there any driveline vibration? Iain

Paul, I would have thought if the UJ was damaged the noise would occur in various gears when under load and slowing down plus probably driveline vibration. How long ago was the gearbox reconditioned? Did you replace the clutch release bearing? Iain

Hmmm, if it's a new noise then something may have gone array. I don't have any experience with Triumph 'boxes so I have to bow to the greater wisdom in the Forum. Iain

Hi Paul, do you have original gearbox? I have a type 9 and they do clatter at low revs, it's the nature of the beast. Just stir the box to get revs up and all's OK. Iain

Hi Paul, fortunately the PO had my car fully restored so my headlight panels are in good condition but good price. Mirror finish s/steel looks good but you have to be sooo careful as it shows scratches. Grade 316 is best for but 321 could also be used, some other lower grades can even over time show surface rust! It looks like you made a fine job of the air cleaner and side panels, did you put the louvres in? Iain

Hi John, I've read your thread and there are sites which are plug and play to calculate. I have a burette on order but need to review the valve seat heights as this must effect the chamber volume. Iain

Yes I'm at the point of writing notes to remember the ever increasing lists of things to do. Obviously the reason for asking the standard thickness is to try and ascertain if my head has been skimmed at some point in it's history (perhaps that's why I look like Frankenstein). Are there other telltale signs of skimmed heads? If it had hemispherical combustion chambers I could measure the diameter...but it doesn't. Iain

Thanks Pete, do I give the points and prizes to you or Chris Witor?

Another starter for 10, hands on buzzers......what is the standard thickness of a Vitesse Mk2 head? Yours in anticipation Iain

Martyn, please don't take offence but to shiney for me!! Cheers

Airbox arrived from Canley, it's exactly the same as my 'original' but has some light surface rust which I can easily remove. No dents or scratches and the seal strip is good so I think worth the £38 total including delivery. I forgot to take a picture and the car is now where I used to work as I'm taking the head (and possibly block) out. Ancillaries off just need to lift head but run out of time yesterday. However I did notice the tappet adjustment screws were up and down an indication of incorrect valve seat heights or odd valve lengths. Going to take head off tomorrow...the suspense!! Iain

It's a highly modified car........or I can't tipe.

I do have the air box that came with my MK11 (v good condition so I don't want to modify it) and it's silver with 4 air holes at the bottom by the rear carb. Paint looks original so I presume it's how it was from new.