Iain T

Mmmm, just seen this posting Jigsaw, Mark & Jo Field....Marmite names

Nick, I have the same setup less quick rack and it suits me. For those of us who like to twiddle we are always after that perfect setup but never achieve it! 🔧 Iain

Agreed I wouldn't fit a quick rack to a 6 pot, the front end is too heavy but for a 1500 spit should be fine. However I would go for a standard rack, I'm too accustomed to speed sensitive power steering! Iain

It seems to have met it's Waterloo! I think Moss do a LHD quick rack for €252 or standard for €232. Iain

If the bellhousing is misaligned (by not using correct 3/8" dowel bolt) it will result in driveline vibration. At what speed depends on the amount of misalignment. If the spit is the same as a vitesse all the bellhouse fixings are 5/16ths but one is 3/8ths. The input shaft should be aligned with the crank to less than 5 thou and it is if you use the 3/8ths bolt and your backplate isn't bent. Easy to check backplate, put a mag base dti on the flywheel and the dti on the backplate. Rotate the flywheel and read any runout. You can do the same test with the gearbox striped off the bellhousing, mag base on flywheel and put dti on the inside face (thickness) of the round gearbox aperture. Run out must be less than 5 thou. Iain

Just had a quick search, RWP Motorsport, Motorsport-Tools and others do the complete conversion kits. Seems like it would only be another £70/80 pounds more for a concentric conversion over replacing the bearing, slave cylinder (or cheaper if I get an original Girling slave at £95.00!) and faffing around with the arm spigots and carrier roll pin. Jury's out I'll make my mind up when I measure everything. For items that are difficult to get at I would prefer a fit and almost forget solution! Iain

Interesting, I like the concentric release arrangement and as Peter says there are a few type 9 off the shelf conversions. The only issue is I have a Triumph bell housing and would need to measure/shim to get the correct clearances. It is definitely a better engineered solution and looks to work with the standard 5/8" master cylinder. I'll have a look on the forum etc to see if anyone has a blow by blow account. Thanks again Iain

Thanks all, rather than complicate things I'll refurb the arm with new spigots. When I take the block out (heads off already) I'll take a look at components, I need to get the clutch feel back!

OK sorry misread return spring is in the slave..... Iain

Roger, thanks for advice. What do you mean by slipper pads? Is there a standard return spring that can be fitted to a Vitesse? Thanks Iain

Hi Mark, Sorry for tardy reply, thanks for the head skim spreadsheet. I put in the relevant data for a Mk2 and it seems to work and correlate with the Triumph Tuning Guide written in the days of old. I'm aiming for 10.0/10.5 : 1 comp ratio and my head seems to be nearly a stock 2.290" thick. Until CTM Performance have sorted out the up and down valve heights I will not be able to check the correct capacity of the chambers. I will then update the spreadsheet to give the skim depth. With the head off I can see the bores are in very good condition with the honing marks still visible. I will be taking the block out as phase 2 but I am hopeful I will get away with just a cam replacement, seals etc and balancing all the whirly bits. Plus strip and check the oil pump. I'll also be replacing the front sealing block with the TRGB steel version (threads are stripped on my ali block) as it constantly weeps oil. Cheers Iain

Pete, as usual very informative, I'll definitely be replacing the pins on my arm are they are quite worn. Iain

Pete, not sure I understand. Bear in mind I have type 9 gearbox so the plate is from unknown source but probably dolly 1850 to cater for the Ford first motion shaft spline. The new cover is obviously for a vitesse. Iain

Hi Richard, I'll give him a call tomorrow, again I would be fumbling around without the Forums invaluable help! Thank you Iain

Thanks Richard, found the RHP bearing at the site you mentioned. I have been Googling for ages for RHP 34W 1 1/2 (I believe this is the correct bearing) and got a load of rubbish! Pete, as you suggest I think I'll fit a rolled pin in my brass carrier to stop it rotating. Last question, I inspected the clutch slave cylinder and the bore looks very badly machined. I have looked on line and everyone seems to sell the same ali rubbish does anyone sell properly made ones? The only reason for asking is there is no feel or bite in my clutch so I'm going though the possible culprits. FYI I have a new proper B&B cover and virtually new plate. Thanks as always Iain

Hi, I currently have a brass carrier fitted by PO to my Mk2 Vitesse which has some nasty wear depressions in the flanges where the arm fits so not ideal. I assume this is because the brass is not of the correct spec as it needs to be hard. Any thoughts as to replacing it with a steel one from, sharp intake of breath, one of our esteemed spares suppliers. Also my brass one does not have a rolled pin in the flanges to stop it rotating on the actuating arm, is the pin a good idea or just a load of bunkum? While replacing the carrier I might as well change the bearing, from memory it has a radius on the face, again flat or radius and where to get quality bearings. Any suggestions please Iain

There are probably as many grades of powder as there are oils. Powdercoat adhesion depends to a large degree on preparation. Most small powdercoating companies just use cheap powder unless specified then the price goes up, a lot. I spec'd a facade system coating on a office block 300 metres from the sea using marine grade from Vertik-Al in Birmingham. Finish was super smooth and because it had a flexidiser in it extremely chip resistant and 20 year guarantee (with caveats) but cost three times standard. However for small quantities it would be too expensive, £250 min charge. Best prep for steel parts will always be electrocoating but again you need volume. I agree with Andrew ali rocker cover and hammerite air box. Iain

Yes requires some thought how and where to mount (the side valance seems a good option) and the correct sized/flow filter. I've seen what Chris Witor has done with a forward facing cone filter but that is still in the hot air flow from the radiator fan so not ideal. What ever position the filter is mounted it must not get wet so it's going to be a compromise. Iain

Ouch! A new meaning to measure twice cut once.....

Remind me what's the Topic and can you get the lube from the chemist???

John, Webers are Italian 🍷the same rules don't apply to British Zenith-Strombergs!?!🍺 Iain

I am certainly hoping for an increase in get up and go. When I finish the engine mods and put it on a rolling road I might try it with and without the stub stacks to see what the variance is and report back. Problem is I will have to armed with needle options I have 6AC in the carbs now and 7B to try out anybody know of a inbetweeny number? Pete, I have mohair headlining does that qualify my Mk2 as 'hairy'??? Iain

Nigel, the crazy lifts and lap overs on some cams are not required unless you circuit race. The same with over strong valve springs. Iain

I believe someone at Triumph realised air flow to the rear carb could be compromised by the front filter hence the simplistic fix. Yes it does mean hot air is drawn in, I will be blanking mine off. Iain

True, you really need to junk the original filters to correctly fit the stacks. I'm on the hunt for an external filter and how the mount and trunk it to the air box. I'm mindful to protect the filter from getting wet. Iain