Roger K

Hi Colin, If you have it on the shelf then obviously it makes sense to use it, but when you run out I'd strongly recommend trying Dinitrol (3125 and 4941, although the numbers might have changed - or the newer High Performance), it's like chalk and cheese. And lasts a lot longer before needing a reapplication. Sorry, gone OT!

I wouldn't use Waxoyl, I suspect the rubber might deteriorate quite quickly - and yes, it does set hard. In fact I wouldn't use Waxoyl anywhere on any of my cars. Dinitrol is the stuff to use underneath, but a non-setting glazing sealant like Arbomast or the 3M equivalent is what I use routinely for glass. Very messy but definitely does the job. I haven't done my GT6 screen yet (I've only had the car a week), but on all my other restorations it's been Arbomast in the inside groove in the gasket and stick around the glass, then fill the outside groove with Arbomast and lay a piece of strong nylon cord in the groove over the mastic. Place on the car, engaging the bottom of the gasket on the body flange, and with someone pressing firmly but gently on the outside pull the cord from inside the car to flip the gasket lip over the flange. I'd have thought the GT6 is the same.

Thanks for the kind offers folks. I'll try making some up in steel, shouldn't be too difficult. I'm well into metalwork at the moment - this is my current project, which is nearly ready for paint:

No problem, thanks for the tip! I don’t think the metal type are going to be available now. I suspect as Pete said, it’s a safety thing. Got some ½ x ¼ steel flat to make up metal ones, and as said before I’ll pop the door panel off to fit them properly. Anyone know how it comes off? The usual spring clips?

Unfortunately the ones in the link are plastic, same as the ones I have and can be bought from Rimmers.

I think I'll play safe and make some metal ones up from bar, and use countersunk machine screws and nuts to tighten through the doorskin. Wouldn't hurt to put a slight curve in the base of the mirror itself, too, to seat better on the plastic gasket on the doorskin. Just need to work out how to remove the door panel.

I'm fitting some of the modern commonly-available 'Tex style' door mirrors to my '73 Mk3 GT6 and am not wildly happy with the fit. I remember having these mirrors back in the day, and the small rectangular-section bar that the screws went through into the plastic base gasket piece was definitely metal, whereas the modern repro mirrors have this piece in black plastic. The mirror, when mounted, moves up and down more than I would like and I think this may be down to the plastic 'wedge' piece. Does anyone have a fix for this - is it a known problem? I'm wondering if the best solution would be to fit the components using countersunk bolts and nuts rather than the screws into the plastic mounting piece. Thanks, Roger

Thanks Colin, looks like they were aftermarket rather than dealer supplied then. Decisions, decisions...

Oops, sorry, yes, chrome wheel rim trims (or stainless, or aluminium). I remember fitting some to my '73 in the mid-eighties, but I don't know if they were an aftermarket accessory or if they were a 'proper' option. I seem to remember mine were stainless with a row of aggressive-looking teeth to hold them on. Is that how the current stainless offering works?

Can anyone tell me if these were ever fitted to new MkIII GT6s, either by the factory or as a dealer option? Thanks, Roger

Sorry, very late to this thread - just to say I've had a lot of work done by Anglia Radiators over the years, and they are utterly fantastic. Last time I was in there getting some original Cobra heater matrixes repaired, they had a Spitfire rad leaning against the bench.... and I'm not talking Triumph here.

Just found an interesting thread on a forum from 2012 discussing this - the outcome is that although the J-type box was promised, it never got into the GT6. http://sideways-technologies.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/6247-late-gt6-3-rail-box-with-j-type-overdrive-rebuilt/ It wanders a bit, but I'd say the guy is pretty convincing. Roger

Thanks for the advice chaps, and if I were restoring a car for regular use I'd certainly have a look at the J-type. I know it quite well - a Stag was my daily driver from '79-82 and I didn't have any o/d problems. A few others, maybe... I've had A-types in TRs and Healey 3000s, and a D-type (I now know!) in my daily driver GT6 from '87-92 with no issues. My 'new' car is an incredibly original 2-owner late '73, which I intend to keep as stock as possible so the D-type is the obvious choice for this car.

Ouch! I like the idea of 'noticing a machine gun noise', but ignoring it... not a member of the armed forces, I'd guess!

Thanks Clive. I'd be interested to know about the one for sale, could you pm me?

Could somebody confirm GT6 overdrive types for me, please? My newly-purchased '73 does not have overdrive, and I'd like to fit a replacement 'box with overdrive that is correct for the car. I've seen comments that seem to imply the late GT6s had the option of a J-type Laycock, yet others state that the GT6 only ever had the D-type. Could someone clarify for me?

Thanks chaps. Not sure about easier to find - I've found some 5.5s, but can't find any 5J steels anywhere.

Thanks for the advice, Nick. Could you advise how to find the 5" rims? I thought they were Spitfire IV, but Rimmers list these as 4.5". Google search not coming up with much.

Thanks all! Oh, how I love a nice, active forum, full of friendly, helpful people!

Probably 175s? Would 165s be better?

Thanks, very useful info. Will both these sizes fit with no body mods OK - late swing-spring MkIII GT6?

Just re-joined the Club after a 30-yr absence, having bought my 6th late swing-spring GT6 today... Could someone advise on wheel sizes, please? I'm keen to retain the std. Mk3 drilled steel wheels with the chrome centre piece and nuts, but would like to go wider than 4.5". Is there a 5", or 5.5", option that looks basically the same but wider? Thanks, Roger

Hi all, just a gentle reminder that if anyone should come across this car I'd really appreciate an email to rs.k@btinternet.com. Thanks, and happy GT6-ing! Roger

Just a little prod, if anyone should hear anything...

Sadly, you may be right. I’ve been restoring cars all my life, from Frogeyes to Cobras, so rusty steel is not an issue - but I have a horrible feeling that Roo now exists only as a V5C. Well, if anyone hears to the contrary, please get in touch, either here or via rs.k@btinternet.com Thanks, Roger