Roger K

The bore in the photo looks to be scored to me, unless it's an artefact. Have you checked the crank journals with a mic? The shells don't look too bad, but it's worth checking properly. And yes, see what the mains look like. I like the 'side-mount' on the engine stand - nice idea, means you can actually do the flywheel and clutch on the stand for once! Not seen that before....

Thanks, good advice.

As it says, really. Late GT6 MkIII - should the chassis be finished in black, or body colour (Carmine)? I'm assuming all suspension and steering components should be black. Thanks Roger

Ah, OK, that makes sense. Personally I'd helicoil back to 5/16 UNF, as I'd soon forget the metric change had been made. That said, it's not a spanner issue as they're panhead screws, so I guess it really doesn't make much difference.

I haven't got into my engine yet, that comes early next year - but before I do, are you sure on that bolt size? I'm surprised that a sixties UK block would have metric fasteners. In this instance, unless I was about to do an engine strip-down I would helicoil the threads in situ. Easy enough, and will end up stronger than the original. Why did Triumph use an aluminium piece here originally rather than steel, I wonder?

I stopped using distilled water a long time ago, after reading similar articles to this one: https://www.hyperlube.com/blog/blog/why-you-should-never-use-distilled-water-in-your-cooling-system/

I have Konis for mine, but can't report on performance as it's still in bits. However I have Konis on my other classics, and they are definitely the best. It's worth mentioning that yes, they are adjustable - but not like the others (Spax, Gaz etc.). The adjustability on Konis is purely to allow for a drop off in performance as they get older. They have to be taken off the car to adjust. I've never had to replace a set, they last forever. Roger

The prop sliding joint does so little because the diff is mounted to the frame, unlike a live rear axle where it can move around a lot with torque reaction etc. I prefer to use a specific spline grease in these joints, such as a molybdenum grease or graphite grease. I've seen some suggest Copaslip or other copper 'grease' - this is not a lubricant and I wouldn't use it anywhere except to stop seizure due to corrosion.

That's fine - I'll get Andy on it for me! Thanks Roger

Not at all, I thought it was a great comment!

Do you find the ratios OK for motorway driving as well as twisty bits with the 3.63 and o/d? What would you be able to do for a couple of hours on a French autoroute - 75-80?

That, Pete, is pretty much how Speedycables ask you to check what calibration you want. Not quite as complex, though, they just ask for a chalk mark on the tyre and a card pointer and disc on the cable, and count how many turns of the pointer for a set number of rotations of the tyre. They do the maths, otherwise just as you say.

Sorry Nigel, I thought that was a witty remark!

You know, I wondered how long it would take... I'd still like to find the correct ratio to keep the car original if I can.

Pity it's not the Mustang speedo as I just change the plastic gear in the gearbox to recalibrate! Oh well, hello Speedycables... Thanks for the advice, all

Thanks Colin. Given that until the very last few cars, GT6s with overdrive had a 3.89 ratio I'm hoping one half way between 3.89 and 3.27 won't rev too highly, especially with the overdrive. Plus, I'm told the 3.63 is stronger...

Quick question (I hope) - will a Spitfire 1500 3.63 diff fit straight into a '73 non-roto MkIII GT6 with overdrive? The original diff is a 3.27 - are the mounts the same, and the three shaft flanges? Thanks Roger

I need a replacement 3.27 diff for my late MkIII GT6 - will pay a good price! Please pm or email rs.k@btinternet.com

Anybody know if he (or anyone else) has a 3.27 for sale?

I used Hardy's years ago when Dave was still alive, as we both had Healey 3000s and Dave was a very successful racer of his. Good company but haven't dealt with them for years. Roger

OK, OK, just thinking out loud...

Thanks Chris, I have sourced some 3/4" cylinders to use so should be OK. With regard to size, given that a set amount of fluid is pumped to the rear brakes when the pedal is pressed, I would expect smaller pistons to move further for the same brake application - so it would make sense that your 3/4" cylinders might lock up the rear brakes early, which (if excessive) could definitely be a safety issue. Hence the factory's fitment of 7/8", to effectively lessen the rear braking effect. I think fitting the largest option currently available is the best solution. Some suppliers are sending 5/8" cylinders out for late GT6s, which could make the brake balance worse.

Thanks Colin.

Anyone know if either of the two steering column locks sold by Rimmers (2190611 or UKC27191) are correct for post-KE20000 GT6 MkIII? The parts book doesn't give a number so can't check with that. Are these readily available? Which ignition switch should go with it? Thanks, Roger

Ah... The next question is, are the manual adjuster cylinders available in 7/8"? - and can they be adjusted with the drums on? I'm guessing from your post, Doug, that they're not.... I can't see how you could adjust brake shoes accurately without a snail cam arrangement, accessible with the drum on. Tighten up, back off two clicks... edit - I see, need to change the lot - backplates, shoes, drums, cylinders and adjusters. The problem then is that I'm restricted to 1.25" shoes instead of 1.5", and still only 3/4" piston diameter. Quite apart from the drop in rear braking power this would give against the front servo'd system, I don't know if the extra 0.25" would create clearance problems with the drum fitment on the hub against the backplate, or the longer driveshafts etc. - so it could turn into an expensive experiment. I'll leave it as it is for now, with the 3/4" auto-adjust cylinders, and see how I go.