Simons3

All sorted. Thanks again for the part number Colin.

Thanks Colin. Yes the plate is there. The screw is what I need then. Anyone on here want to sell me one? Or the entire shifter mechanism if you don't want to split. Thanks.

Just fit a new bushing kit to the mk4 and now realise why reverse was too easy to find. Is it a part I need to order or is there it a nut bolt and spacer/washer jobby? Thanks in advance.

After doing a quick refurb of the frame (rubdown and paint) i have refit the unit to the car. Wound you say this is an acceptable fit? Also i notice potential damage to in this area both sides I have put a cloth both sides to cushion. Is there supposed to be a rubber seal on the front of the inner frame? Lastly, is this how the hood sits by the top rear of both doors? I guess it would flap about at speed and cause this to happen. I was wondering if the flap was significant here? I also bought the two chrome effect plastic cappings years ago, but for the life in me, i cannot see how they attach. Has anyone got a close up picture of these fitted to the car? Thanks in advance. Simon

Thankyou both for the information. I have that bracket on the hood which locates the inner bolts. Never crossed my mind the two outer bolts locate a hardtop. School day every day for me with this car.

Can anyone tell me what the two outer bolts are for I have the hood off for a cleanup atm and the inner two bolts were the only ones i had to remove to take it off. Spitfire mk4 '72 Thanks in advance.

Thanks chaps and sorry for the late reply on this. An old squaddie mate rucked up around lunchtime yesterday and a bloody bender ensued. Like an idiot around 10pm (i think) i thought i was Mr Invincible with the trim.... big mistake. Anyway, just took a few pics of my handywork. I decided to leave the anxhorage in place btw. A bit rough round the edges but hey ho. Even positioned the centre console bits i bagged from Spitfire Graveyard last month. Coulpe of self tappers and all should be good. Just need to refurb the passenger seat and swap out the doorcard and should be good to go internally. Then onto the door window inner outer seals 🤔

Hi, so i have a free day today and thought i would tidy the rear trims up with Owens finest. Seems pretty straight forward untill i look at the vinyl replacements for the rear arches. Can i remove this and refit with ease? Or do i trim the new vinyl around it? The original would suggest it comes off, though i dont want to open up a can of worms. Thanks in advance.

Both nice cars in their own right but you can't compare the two surely. However if i had the money i would consider having both in my stable. The price does reflect well on gt6 owners though.

That makes sense Peter. I wasn't having a pop btw. This is why i don't do facebook, twitter and instagram etc. Unfortunately too many people do, then fill my head with the tripe it spouts. I cant remember who told me the story but glad to hear the truth from an aussie. When i look at all these death rates from WHO it strikes me that certain countries are more efficient at controlling this virus. Namely ones surrounded by water. Trust the UK to fcuk up a glorious opportunity to follow suit. Enjoy the summer you lucky bugger 😎

Si i did recently read about a 5km travel limit (from home address) in Victoria, but a pregnant woman dragged from her home by police for a comment made on social media? Or have i been dwinking too much Gwuinness these last few weeks. Sounds like you guys are a little bit stricter on the matter. We just appear to be gliding towards an xmas full lockdown.

I bought my '72 mk4 over 10 yrs back and the trim was black on rear wings and chrome on the rear Still the same but the Triumph bit was replaced for new., ie not held on with tie wraps I always thought the wing tops had at some point been replaced for mk5 items. I like the look as is tbh. I guess chrome/chrome would smarten the appearance up.

Bit the bullet Colin. Mine is now missing the flip lever...presumed new home bottom of tank. Here are the pictures Mine don't appear to be screws, the heads look more like pop rivets, but surely not. Ordered a new unit along with a new deck grommet, filler neck hose and 2 fasteners. Couriered for tomorrow circa £105. Not bad tbf. Plus i have a free paperweight. Thanks for taking time out to reply.

Hi Colin It's not the hinge side, it's the bit you flip to release. A metal part about an inch long flew off with broken dowels either side. I will take some pictures tomorrow and post. I saw the two you mentioned on ebay earlier. They look a bit ropey. Mine is in goog condition by comparison. Like you say about £60/£70 should get me a nice shiney new one. Might even get a locking one.

Just been out for a spirited drive to get some miles in and nearing home went to fill up with fuel. When re clipping the cap, the latch came apart. Looks like a couple of dowels secure it to the main cap that have failed. Cant post pics at moment as not near the car. Is this fixable? Or do i purchase a new unit. I filled to the brim so needs fixing asap. Simon

I waited about 7-8 weeks for mine. All packaged really well i must say. He does do leather as he offered me that option, but didn't bother asking lead times as i wanted the smooth grain plastic. So the drivers seat is done bar the tilt lever as i had to butcher the two screws to get them out. Will pop into the hardware store tomorrow to source replacements. Glued rear cushion to frame with new lats The calico slot is between lats 2 and 3. Add some plastic to aid fitment. Then on with the cover. Clip down the calico, rear and two sides and Bobs yer uncle. Next was the base. Glue the ribbed part of cover where marked and glue the two foams together. Leave to set. Work the cover over. seat in basket with new hardboard and ziptie frenzy time. I didn't bother with the hessian i ordered. Time will tell on that decision. This is the finished base. And this is the seat finished. i will get it into the car tomorrow then i intend to service the door furniture and fit my new doorcard. Plus the inner/outer strips, which have seen better days.

Yes Doug, but i bought the whole shebang. All 4 covers smooth finish, 4 foams, doorcards, rear 1/4 cards, wheelarch retrim and the big rear card. Comes with new rubber slats, some clips and a big bag of tie wraps. Have to say the covers look great.

Now my car is mechanically sorted (bar waiting delivery of richer needles and solid butterflies to finish up) i thought i would turn my attention to the seats and plastics. My drivers seat base is fubar. The passenger base is quite good and gives me a good reference as a starting point. Lets start with some pics Basket out and first coat of hammerite all in one smooth black. Same for the tilt mechanism. Here is the existing backrest foam and cover The seat frame with its first coat after sanding back resting on the seat base. I plan on leaving the sliders in place and will give the runners a light lube. This is what it looks like under the drivers....ouch I'll get Henry on that. Will try to get some pics of the recovering process. I will be using Owens instructions as he supplied the kit for me. If it gets too technical (fiddly) i may employ a specialist. If anyone wants to pipe in with advice, it will be much appreciated.

Sure was Colin.

Little update on proceedings with regards to my seized engine. For once lady luck was on my side. After dropping the oil i noticed nothing untoward with the condition of it, no shiney metal flakes etc. So i took the starter off and had a peek inside and saw this. What could it be? Off with the bellhousing and look what fell out... It somehow got lodged in the flywheel teeth. The to$$ers i paid to finish the car off used over length bolts and cut them down. They must have done this with the starter motor off, and into the bellhousing it went. Car is now running sweet as a nut, just needs a tune up.

Thanks Richard and others for your pm's, i will follow these leads up. Pete, it's only an engine and will be fixed, but not by me. The £££ will be more than i wanted to spend, but not a disaster to me. Engine number is FH3..... but vaguely remember head being single spring. Maybe it was swapped out prior to my ownership. Thanks for the heads up re Ivor Searles, i will google them for more info. Simon

Yes it makes one wonder. The lack of address and only a mobile, plus the ebay prices quoted. Let me cut to the chase. I really need some experienced help here from you guys as i am obviously way out of my depth here. About 5 yrs ago i removed the head on my 72 mk4, took it to a very reputable engineering shop and had it refurbed for unleaded. I also get them to fit double springs (mistake no. 1) Around this time my mum passed on my b'day with the big C. This hit me hard as 2 yrs previously i lost my dad. The head never got refitted and i put it to one side (mistake no. 2) Should have refit it really. Then three years ago i got this stupid idea of removing the block and stripping it down for a full refurb. The engine went to the engineering shop and i supplied them with all the parts needed. I also supplied thrm with a mk3 profile cam. Mistake no. 3. When all ready to go back in, child no. 2 arrives, so block is put asside with head. Mistake no. 4. At the begining of this year i thought the time was right to get the engine back in the car. I made a start then my best mate falls ill late January and dies of pneumonia. Life's a b!£ch i say and decide pay someone to finish off the engine install (a local classic car restorers) Mistake no. 5. I got the car back last month. Everything fine and dandy. Put a few miles on her then last week fired her up and click, no start. Swapped starter out for a known good one and same click. Put a new starter solonoid on and even threw a new battery on and guess what...click. Got my pump pliers out and went to turn the front pulley nut and zero movement. Not happy. Infact totally p!$$ed off tbh. Removed rocker cover and loosened rocker assrmbly a couple of threads and still no movement. I did notice a valve sitting way too low in the head, bugger. I do not have anymore desire to drop the oil and inspect inside the sump as it will only upset me further when i see what i think i will see. The oil looks grey in parts on the dipstick so i think it is safe to say engine needs another full rebuild, but this time in one hit and not over many years. I was having trouble with the rocker assembly during rebuild and wonder if the new cam profile and double springs had a bearing. Plus the engine was sat a good few years (though cling wrapped) not ideal for the cam and other rotational parts) So i am all ears chaps. Are you my engine rebuilder or do you know who is. I reside in Leeds, up north. Pm if you prefer Simon

Has anyone used Eurika Triumph for a rebuild/exchange service? They are based in North Wales, but a google search is unhelpfull for obtaining any reviews.

Thanks for the quick replies gents. I went with your theory Pete, as the wire was too short to go anywhere else really. My speedo only has the one fixing clamp and for the life in me i cant find a supplier who stocks them. Changing the stabiliser with the speedo in-situ is a right pita btw. Will update my other thread soon with some pics as things have been a little strange for me these past few months. The car is up and running though and i have managed to put a few miles on the old girl. Simon

I was replacing the voltage stablizer this afternoon to hopefully sort my over reading temp/fuel guages when i found this unattached ground. Hoping for some help with where it is supposed to go. Car is a '72 Spit and it exits the main loom with all the speedometer/stablizer wires. Thanks in advance.