Peter Truman

I would say Aussie CKD 12/50 Coupe as it has chrome bumper covers, rego plate looks NSW colours, and rego transfer on windscreen, also a modern photo looking at the other cars in the photo. Also later variant as it has the ribbed roof panels behind the B pillar, I think they were assembled up to 65.

Also used superglue to successfully butt join rubber sections eg Sprint front windscreen seals.

A club member here had an early 60's Herald Coupe (Aus CKD by AMI) and he had to slam the doors, at a "tweak it day" I fixed the anti burst wedges, realigned the doors and hey presto the door shut with min action, not quite Jag like, but close! The daughters Mk2 Spit has a closed circular section door rubber not the closed cell type, and that affects the door closure, I need to replace it with a small C section flap pinchweld, but there's only one supplier here and he only sells it in 50 mts rolls $+$+$, at a max the Spit and Vitesse would use 12mts!! I have thought about cutting longways along the bottom the closed circular type and trimming the flap length to create a small C section to see if that helps/works

Herald/Vitesse door slamming can just be the wedge slider at the bottom of the A post door catch being seized a good clean and making sure it slides as you shut the door makes for finger push door closing. There again it could be more serious but the slider is an easy fix!! .

Similarly I use the bonnet locks on both the Spit & Vitesse to stop the catch's opening whilst driving. Your bonnet catch's are in extremely good condition are the NOS, if so who was the supplier please

Ironically my Vitesse Glove Box Key is the same as my daughters Mk2 Spitfire Boot Key.

An side issue with pushing the gearstick all the time, for our sins my son had an Alfa 33 in his youth and we had to get the gearbox rebuilt by the local Alfa specialists, who advised it needed new selector forks which is not unusual on Alfa's as the Italian hot drivers always held the gearstick even when in gear pushing the brass selector forks into contact with the selector gear causing the fork to wear down very very thin!. Since then I have never held the gearstick after changing gear!

On Triumph Experience Forum it was notified just now that Moss and Rimmer’s have been purchased by an American Equity company which specialises in auto aftermarket suppliers Is it correct?

What about 2 nuts on the outer castle nut thread and lock them together ie the reverse way of removing a stud.

Can't remember where my dished washer came from I'm a hoarder for these sort of small things, when an electrical thing breaks down I strip it for all the sundry parts, bolts self tappers etc, drives the wife mad!! It looks similat to an arial outside finisher but I don't think there large enough.

what about a small hole through the lever and roll pin protruding across and above the split ring 69, roll pin easily pushed out for future replacement of ball and springs, not personally tried so can't advise outcome. Re ball sitting too low I had one that pushed thro the remote I used a large thin semi spherical dished washer that fitted perfectly in the remote and it's still going strong years later.

Note the Spitfire Mk1 & 2 are gravity fed ie the tank outlet is at the bottom there is no pick up tube, all brass fittings from memory, I prefer positive suction to the pump rather than a sucker pump set up. It would get over your pick up pipe issue. The only issue with a drowned suction is if you remove the inlet pipe to the mech pump is the tank keeps draining!!

Pls note PL's comment re washer very important, the advice tends to get overlooked!

I think I also say them on Brabhams F1 early cars

Thanks for the process wonder how they changed the spring angle packer/spacer on the diff top