Neil Clark

Still catching up with all of your knowledge! The clutch is fine so I'm not going to change what is there until I need to. I tried to get the number you mention Rob but just couldn't find anything discernible with a highlight lens. Do either of these photos help to identify the gearbox? Looking closely today, I think the bell housing could have been "new" for the 2017 restoration, in fact it must be, it's just not dirty. While the engine is the original number could the gearbox be from another car? By the way, this was the damaged chassis!

I'm going to check the TPM first - once the rain stops.

I might be able to avoid getting the tunnel out and see it with a flexi camera.

I have a crash first gear. Here is the diff.

There are these numbers on the casing. Do these photos help to identify it? I know they are rotated but can't get them clearer. I can't quite read the numbers and don't fancy stripping out the interior and tunnel again!

Sorry typo - 13" wheels

Well, when I got to the garage to collect it they hadn't swopped the pro-shaft around because they couldn't, and so it's splined end to the back still. It turns out that the car is fitted with a Vitesse gearbox! I have no idea which Vitesse box is fitted - do they even differ from 1.6 to 2.0 litre Vitesse? What should I look for? I do know that the back axle I have is the later swing type. The speedo does under-read by about 10% (says 20mph but looks like it's 22 or so). I also have 15" wheels. This is becoming one of those parlour games like "Whose line is it anyway?"

Now it's done, I'll take the more accessible grease nipple as a win!

Doh! How daft can you be? When I got the damaged car I dismantled it and photographed each step as attached. The propshaft was the other way around to my MG (sliding end to the back) so I re-assembled it carefully the same way, just as it came apart, thinking there must be alternatives with these Triumph's. Had to have it up on a lift today because the exhaust was rattling against the chassis so went to the classic car people who have been helping with the last details. "Why is the propshaft this way?" asks our man. "Cos it was that way when I dismantled it." It's the wrong way round of course, now that I look at the book and is being changed as I write.

Welcome! Perfect timing to become an owner since today is the 60th anniversary of the launch of the Spitfire at the London Motor Show.

Yes, we are all inhabiting the same old car world! Looks as if your car will be great once done.

Apart from the issue that the bolt on the lower end is not fully engaging the nyloc nut....................

Can I ask where you bought your hood Alex? Mine does not fit well around the rear curve of the door windows and just dent fit round there.

There's a project car on eBay with chains on the rear shock absorbers. It's a similar age to my UK spec car - was that an original feature? What were they for? "Triumph Spitfire MK 1 1964 Project Dry State Car LHD"

That's a lovely car John!

Thanks - may not get to check out all these adjustments until next week but will let you know.

Now that it's running well overall I'll try that Pete.

So at the lights boy racer I must be again? Awesome. Just entered my eighth decade. Yee hah!

Having fitted the radiator deflector boards and radiator grilles the temperature now sits steadily in the middle of the gauge at last, at all times. The car is running really beautifully except but stutters starting from stop at traffic lights or uphill. Tickover is fine at all times and just now is adjusted to 1000rpm. When I press the accelerator to pull away promptly as I say it's only a stutter but needs care to get the revs going. Am I way off the right answer here to think it might be a fuel supply issue? I've fixed the fuel leak on the input side of the carb. Never having had a Weber before all my experience was with SU's. I imagine that the mechanical fuel pump needs to be operating to feed the initial head of fuel to the Weber? So while there is probably some fuel there (which is why it doesn't pick up strongly), perhaps it needs a couple of seconds of turning faster to boost the amount of fuel the Weber wants?

Yup - thank you! Will let you know how it goes Chris.

I'll have to look. I can't remember if we left enough adjustment for that when they welded the new hinges on for me.

Thanks Colin. I don't think the sill is to blame, the door fitted perfectly until taken off for the re-spray and replacement bonnet being fitted. The sprayer was very concerned about the newly fitted bonnet rear corner / edge scraping it when closing, which I understand, so I'll have a go with your suggestion.

I've been struggling single handed to adjust the passenger door on the Spitfire. I need to edge it forward a few mm and it keeps moving before I can tighten it. I'm thinking to put something under the door, on the sill, such as a sliver of wood. Any other tips that might help?

New nut and olive to the carb seems to have fixed it.

That looks so much more effective than the "clip over and hope" leading edge of the Mk1 hood that I have.