jiggawhat2k
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Posts posted by jiggawhat2k
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21 hours ago, yorkshire_spam said:
Pictures! Have a look at this: https://sucarb.co.uk/technical-carburetters-introduction
The holes effectively serve the purpose in the simple diagram at the top of #5, on the 3rd (bottom) diagram they are item 19.
Cheers, Sam
Cheers Sam great link, have now read.
Swapped the trumpets over and it fired up beautifully. I'm a plonker...
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1 hour ago, NonMember said:
The holes provide air to the underside of the piston that regulates the fuel. If blocked, the piston won't lift properly and your fuelling will be miles out.
Thanks makes sense, in that case it's no wonder it wasn't happy yesterday... Cheers!
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1 hour ago, KevinR said:
Not exactly sure, but a friend who shall remain anonymous, drove up from London to the Duxford Triumph show in his MKIII Spitfire - and when he came to drive home the car was suddenly running like an absolute pig. So bad in fact that he abandoned the car in my garage and borrowed my turd brown Acclaim to get home (the shame of it !).
A couple of days later I started looking at the engine to try and find the problem and found that the bolt on one of the pancake filters had come out and the filter rotated to block the hole. I rotated the filter, refitted the bolt and the car ran perfectly again.
OK sounds similar to what happened to me. Have swapped over and will try again, cheers!!
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7 minutes ago, KevinR said:
Those holes must NOT be blocked !
Thanks Kevin. Glad I checked! What are those holes? Some sort of breather?
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Gave the choke linkage a clean up today, they seem less sticky.
While doing it, I noticed that I had the trumpets on what I think is upside down, covering the 2 holes at the face of the carb.
Probably a very noob question, but what are these holes? Would it alter carb performance? Pic of what I mean below:
I took it for a longer drive yesterday, drive there was OK once warmed up, drive back it wasn't happy at all and seemed to not be firing on 4 cylinders, or intermittently.
Thanks all!
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On 11/04/2020 at 10:08, Badwolf said:
I had a problem with the choke sticking on my front su carb (set up by a profesional mechanic) so disconnected the linkage and ran it with the choke only on the back carb for about 30 years. Only last year did I investigate the problem and found that one section of the linkage tk the jet was slightly bent. This meant that the jet would not release. Vice, mole wrench and 5 minutes later all put back together working perfectly. I nearly replaced the carbs.. 'for the want of a nail'.. etc
Interesting, it's amazing how sensitive these things are. Decided to take carbs off and give them a clean up, job for tomorrow!
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It's running! Did a few of your suggestions:
- Swapped the plugs out for the ones that came with the donor engine (it was running before I got it so worth a go). Plugs in there were soaked again
- Re-gapped old plugs to 0.6mm (25 thou-ish), seem to be a lot of different opinions on gaps (I had them at 0.35mm). A mistake on my part
- Choke was sticking on left carb, red bit underneath carb was slow to return upwards when choke put in. Gave a good spray/clean with wd40 and left to soak. Defo improved, needs taking apart for a refresh tho
- Set the mix as per @yorkshire_spam suggestion
- Did the choke method as described by a few of you
Fired up first time! Amazing!
Thanks for the help everyone, appreciated, looks like it was probably a combination of things.
If I had to guess, I reckon the sticky carb was the main culprit but could be wrong.
Thanks again!
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46 minutes ago, Nigel Clark said:
This is the one. Of course you have SU carbs not Stromberg, but could be the same problem causing very rich mixture.
Nigel
Interesting thread, not heard of this problem before. Will see if I can get in to look at the float needle valve and clear them. Thanks for sharing
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13 minutes ago, yorkshire_spam said:
I don't think float level is adjustable on HS4, but a low level would suggest blocked fuel feed or a bad fuel pump. High level would indicate that the valves in the float chambers aren't closing or the pump is supplying at too high a pressure.
I just switched out the fuel hoses from the fuel pump to the filter and then hose from filter to carb. I used non standard hoses, might be worth me switching back to see if that makes any difference (assuming the fuel pressure could be jacked up or down based on the piping used). Added to the list!
Thanks again
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33 minutes ago, yorkshire_spam said:
Probably easier to show you than to explain it.... this shows the jet level with the bridge. (The rise across the base of the carb - referred to as the bridge)
Usual stating point for tuning is 2 turns or 12 flats DOWN from that point.
After it's been turned over a bit if you take the tops/pistons off the carbs and pull the choke right out, you should see the fuel level - about 3/8" to 1/2" below the bridge. (That would indicate the float levels are right)
Cheers, Sam
Thanks Sam, really helpful.
If the float levels are wrong eg above or below, what would you do next to fix? Cheers!!
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36 minutes ago, Nigel Clark said:
If it's very rich and fouling the plugs soon after starting, could the jets be staying down in the full choke position after you start to push the choke knob back in?
I've had that problem on SU carbs and the plugs soon soot up. The engine only needs maximum enrichment for the first few moments of cold starting.
Nigel
Hmm maybe, the carbs haven't been cleaned up for a while. Also noticed that the left carb (cylinders 3 and 4) the lower red part attached to the choke takes longer to return to position than the other one, maybe a bit sticky. Will check, thanks
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1 hour ago, poppyman said:
Anything coming out of the exhaust Jim? Had a blocked exhaust cause those symptoms more than once.
Tony.
Thanks Tony when I got it running it did have a clear exhaust (was recently put on too so shouldn't be blocked), although was puffing black a bit.
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1 hour ago, clive said:
Jets are the same size, but I think 1500 needles are a bit weaker at higher rpm.
Moot point, as all needles are pretty similar at the base (idle and low rpm)
Did you set the carbs to the Base setting? Wind the jets up so they are level with the bridge, then down 12 flats (2 turns).
But it sounds like too much fuel. Could be the flat chambers over filling.
Thanks Clive, because of it looking rich and thought it was over sized so I wound up the rich/lean nut (assume is same as 'winding up jet'?) to the top then undid a couple of flats.
Where is level with the bridge?
How would I check the flat Chambers? SU carbs are quite new to me sorry!!
Thanks for the help! Jim
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Hi all, wonder if you could help...
Fitted a 1300 spitfire engine into my Herald, got it running but unfortunately it now won't fire.
It has twin carbs (hs4) that I took off my previous spitfire 1500, apparently has bigger jets too although I've not confirmed.
I have fuel.
I've done timing too, was at 8 degrees.
It will occasionally fire first time if left over night but struggles to run and dies by the time I've tog the bonnet closed. Then it will turn over but not fire at all.
I have an uprated starter so plenty of cranking power.
I turned it over a couple of times then took out plugs, they were wet and sooty. Cleaned them up, fires once then dies.
Could it be that it is running way too rich, as the carbs are big and jets are for a different bigger engine? Would explain why the plugs are wet so fast?
All help appreciated! Thanks, Jim
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Minor update, got the car running on the engine we just put in last week, did some of the carb tuning but still needs work (mix isn't right and idle too slow).
Still, the exhaust sounds really great, excited to drive it hopefully for the weekly shop next weekend.
Am tuning it with an airflow meter plus I have a gunsen colortune which I love using, what a cool tool!
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4 hours ago, Colin Lindsay said:
https://www.gbsprings.co.uk/heritage-car-springs/
Try these guys too, there's a link on that page to fill out an enquiry form.
Ah cool thanks, I'll get a quote and see how it looks vs owen, cheers
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O nice, OK I'll go back again and see if I can get a reply! The spring was about £200 so about right for a custom spring I'd say (might be wrong, maybe I'm a sucker!). Cheers
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Thanks @yorkshire_spam, got a quote from Owen Springs after a recommendation from here. They can make one, well, they can make a herald spring with courier specs which is basically the same. They seem to have shut down though, not had replies on my last email.
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What a great looking engine, makes me want to clean mine up a bit...
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6 hours ago, Iain T said:
Just had my Vitesse head and intake manifold refurbished by CTM Performance at Dagenham tel:- 020 8592 1180. Really good work, the valves are now level, unlike the valves Jigsaw put in for me 2 years ago! He has been doing performance head (and full engine) work for 35 years and knows his job and the black art of head modification.
He, Charlie, has different levels of head development, I had a "Terry" level which is:- strip clean and crack test, port and polish 3 angle, supply and fit bronze guides, supply gas flowed s/steel valves, fit Terry spec duplex springs, skim to give 10.5 : 1 compression (for me with +20 pistons that's approx 30.5cc in head), match and modify/match inlet manifold to give more even flow and reface rocker arms.
He does a "Mark" level which I believe is more race orientated but give him a call and discuss what you want to achieve. I know he is there today as I spoke to him about an hour ago.
Hope this helps
Iain
Great thanks Iain good suggestion, will give him a shout!
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7 hours ago, yorkshire_spam said:
I've just had my 1500 head done by Peter Burgess. Excellent service, reasonable price and a nice bunch to deal with. (See my blog linked below)
Thanks, good detail in the blog so will read over it properly cheers
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Hi there, I've seen some great guides (some by you guys I think!) on getting work done on the head, porting/polishing, skimming and matching to the exhaust manifold and so on.
I saw moss sell ready built heads that are ported etc. Anyone know if they're good?
Anyone got suggestions of companies or individuals who can do head work if I sent a head (or buy one off them with work done)?
Plan is to combine with mk3 spit cam and twin SUs plus 421 manifold, so nothing too extreme, fast road.
Thanks very much!
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23 hours ago, Colin Lindsay said:
Top (red) ones are repair sections only, not full panels, and they go around the rear wheel arch. Hold one against the side of the car and you'll see the profile.
As Rob says the other is the outer part of the wheelarch in behind the rear wing; if you look at that area you'll see the seam running right up and around the wheelarch. That's the outer part closest to the wing.
Cheers Colin! I'll stash them away for when the rot returns (hopefully never...)
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2 hours ago, PeteH said:
HI
Wish Mine had come with a pair!. I fabricated out of sheet steel, Using a "home made" wooden former, a couple of lengths of Angle iron in a vice and a Small "anvil". The weld leaves much to be desired though!, strong but ugly, I think best describes the end result. Thank the lord (and Aldi) for Angle grinders and 40 grit flap discs!. Now I need some front wing corner repair patches, that is going to be a "challenge". The wheel arch section(s) will be the easier
P.S.That is where they Fit!.
Pete.
I'm impressed by anyone doing their own welding, however rough it might be! Looks tidy to me
Spitfire mk4 1300 starting issues (in Herald)
in Engine
Posted
Interesting, the tolerances for the whole linkage seem pretty tight, not something I'm used to. Just a bit of old grime had stopped one of my jets popping out. Lots of wd40 and a clean and it's right as rain.