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jiggawhat2k

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Posts posted by jiggawhat2k

  1. 3 hours ago, AndyTV8 said:

    Nice job... fingers-crossed the sound will be to your liking.....  my first car was a 13/60 with twin SU’s and 4-branch manifold, I used the TriumphTune wheelbarrow handle twin silencer system, I loved it but it did fail the MOT on excessive noise!  A chat with Mr Hurrell and I replaced with the silencers with ‘acoustic tailpipes’ essentially some extra baffling.

    have fun :)

    ....... Andy 

    Ha I didn't realise you could fail an mot on noise! Sounds good fun. Glad I don't need an mot! 

    Like the idea of twin pipes, they look smart. 

  2. Bodged together the exhaust finally, skinned my knuckles due to not much space to work but went well. My first ever exhaust so I'm pleased. 

    Is made up of the 421 James Paddock manifold (2"), to a jetex 2" silencer, then flex join to 2" straight pipe, then another flex join and cherrybomb. 

    No idea what it'll sound like, I suspect loud... 

    Also used a couple of old polybushes as the rubber mounts, let's see if they're effective... 

    Note any missing/loose nuts visible in pics have been fixed, also now added additional nuts to lock any non-locking bolts. 

    Sticks out a bit at the back a little so need to be careful when parking, probably 1 flex join too many but the car is low and I needed the extra flex join to move the cherrybomb off the floor. Phase 2 will tidy that up a bit, when I get a chance. 

    Cheers all for the recommendations, all plugged together as you described! 

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    Above is the one with the polybush between the chassis and hanger. 

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    • Like 2
  3. Hi guys, hope you can help and apologies if this is info available already (did search for it).

    I've fitted a mk4 Spitfire 1300 engine to my Herald and had a question on the coolant piping. 

    There is a coolant pipe in the top of the head that I didn't have in the previous 1500 engine that was in there. I can't find pics of mk4 spit engines that have it too. 

    We've plumbed it into another pipe so it flows somewhere (tried running the car without it plugged and water pumped out).

    Any ideas where this should be attached? Have we got it right? Circled below:

    20200324_092252.thumb.jpg.68968cdebde9c14b2d77e3f55fba0fa8.jpg

    Screenshot_20200324-092152_Gallery.thumb.jpg.f15b67229a63c5f4e20f8c309d572f9e.jpg

    Screenshot_20200324-092308_Gallery.thumb.jpg.8f4bd24fbdc748904a60bef6f9be64c5.jpg

    Thanks, Jim

  4. Brief update! 

    Wrapped the exhaust in some nasty exhaust heat wrap, looks good though. 

    We then fitted the FH engine (out with the dead 1500) and the new exhaust manifold I bought from James Paddock as suggested by @yorkshire_spam

    Also as suggested here, it didn't fit perfectly, tbh almost every mounting hole needed filing down. Got there in the end though and it looks great. 

    Need a silencer as my straight section isn't quite long enough to reach the back. 

    Londlg day but went well, needs timing, exhaust and a new brake booster (air keeps getting into brakes, can't fully bleed them). 

    Finished article:

    20200321_164536.thumb.jpg.e8654fbec478cd18c0185b8cc3a8c3a8.jpg

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    • Like 1
  5. 9 hours ago, Steve P said:

    I ran an unknown FH 1300 engine in my Herald for 5 years,i had twin SU`s and an overdrive gearbox and 3:63 diff.

    Was a great combo,i even completed the CT Round Britain run in it.

    Now swapped for a 1500.

    Steve

    Ah nice to know if worked!! I've also added twin SUs. 

    We got the old engine out and the new one in today, needs timing and exhaust sorting but apart from that it was a success! My ebay engine hoist turned out to be excellent (apart from the 2 hours to put it together...). 

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  6. For those interested (not particularly interesting I know...) 

    Bottom end has an FH marking so a mk4, the head is 218142 so a big valve head with 9:1 compression. 

    Not the small valve everyone talks about but good enough for me to throw into the Herald! Goes in tomorrow then I'll potentially have a driving car... 

     

    • Like 2
  7. 2 hours ago, thescrapman said:

    I wonder if that Is some sort of leak sealant that has been added to reduce any issues following the rebuild.

    Not necessary on a decent rebuild perhaps.

    I do have some question marks over the quality of the rebuild, it never felt right even from the beginning... Ebay, sometimes it's great, sometimes it isn't, part of the fun I guess.

  8. Thanks for the replies guys, so it didn't have a blanking plug in there at all, and was run without water leaking from it for the time I had it. So I was stupid not to see that it didn't have the plug, but also not great that the car ran with no plug and it didn't leak cos of all the dirt in there. Annoying the block wasn't cleared properly, but no ones responsibility but my own for not flushing it properly once I got it. Live and learn!! Thanks all

  9. 4 hours ago, dave.vitesse said:

    Looks good.

    The Camber Compensator was developed and used by the US Triumph Competitions team headed up by Kas Kastner back in the 1960's. So it has a historic record. 

    In the 1960's I can remember seeing it fitted to rally 948 Heralds in the UK.

    Dave

    Nice, so I can claim racing heritage of some sort!! It'll be scraping along the floor based on the current height of the car...

  10. I'm in the process of putting a different engine into my Herald, I've been removing everything around the block now (carbs, exhaust manifold and the rest of it). Now I see on the block there is a weird yellow leak from a hole within the block. 

    I bought the car with this engine in it already. The previous owner of the Herald had bought the engine from a person off Ebay who advertises rebuilt engines for Triumphs, you'll spot them as they have the distinctive blue (or sometimes green) metallic painted block. 

    I got it running a handful of times, it had over-heating issues from the beginning and then totally seized after a 1 hour run. Has a spitfire 1500 engine.

    I have questions I hope you might be able to answer:

    What is that hole?

    why is it leaking stuff? Is it missing a plug?

    Any idea what the yellow crusty stuff is? Could it be coolant and oil mixed and dried (as hasn't run for a while)?

    I suspect the current block is toast what with it being totally seized (can't crank at all despite trying all the methods), so will be installing a 2nd hand engine I've got hold of. Just interested to know what went wrong so I can avoid it again.

    Thanks in advance!!

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  11. I'm now working from home as the office has closed, means i have a lot more time to work on the Herald, ticked off plenty of jobs this week. 

    One of them was fitting a 1" lowering block! 

    I'm pleased with it, I like cars low!! Got it onto a the back of a flat bed (tight squeeze but made it with no scratches) and it goes on and off my drive no problem. Has Gaz dampers on the rear and coilovers on the front.

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    Engine goes in on Saturday, as long as the roads don't lock down by then...

    • Like 3
  12. 23 minutes ago, 68vitesse said:

    Never knew they existed, presumably ends bolt to bottom shock absorber mount and from the text you would need to source front anti roll bar mounts, there are two sizes, to fasten to boot floor.

    Wonder if anyone on the forum has ever used them.

    Quick search found this.

    https://club.triumph.org.uk/menu/6023/item/157985/view

    Regards

    Paul

    Cheers Paul, that link seemed to come to the conclusion they probably aren't the best for usable handling outside of a track, interesting article

  13. 5 minutes ago, NonMember said:

     No. An anti-roll bar does almost exactly the opposite job to a camber compensator.

    Anti-roll bars resist roll by trying to force both sides to the same height, but don't care what that height is. So if the left side tries to compress up into the wheel arch, the anti-roll bar pushes the right side up into its wheel arch to reduce body roll.

    Camber compensators resist plunge by providing an extra (quite stiff) spring leaf, but are pivoted in the middle so that they don't resist roll. If the left side tries to compress up into the wheel arch, the camber compensator pushes the right side down, out of its wheel arch, thus discouraging tuck-under. It's very much the same theory as the swing spring - if the lateral forces on the tyre are trying to lift one side of the car, it tries to drop the other side, thus putting more weight on the side that's being lifted, and resisting that lift. It won't discourage body roll - in fact it will encourage it - but if the front of the car has enough roll resistance it will combat the tendency of swing-axle suspension to jack up when cornering.

    Thanks @NonMember makes sense.

    I'm looking to reduce tuck as the primary objective so it sounds like a camber compensator/stiff leaf spring/swing spring make the most sense

  14. 17 hours ago, Steve P said:

    One on E bay at the moment from Triumph Recycler.

    Steve

    Thanks @Steve P!! Is it this one? There are just recently a few added.

    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TRIUMPH-REAR-ANTI-ROLL-BAR-HERALD-VITESSE-GT6-SPITFIRE-TRIUMPHTUNE-MODIFICATION/352711033763?_trkparms=aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D226055%26meid%3D2fe6c7bb25f84609ad1a59cc68fc6e43%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D12%26mehot%3Dpf%26sd%3D174222548130%26itm%3D352711033763%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675%26algv%3DSimplAMLv5PairwiseWebWithBBEV1Filter%26brand%3DTriumph&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851

    Seems to be an anti roll bar that they're suggesting be attached to the boot floor (rather than the diff as I saw for camber compensators), guess it does a similar job though? 

    Anyone have experience of rear anti roll bar vs camber compensator vs courier spring??

    Thanks for flagging it @Steve P

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