VixenPPP

Hi all, We have ' idiot ' light working. Solenoid arm correctly adjusted when energised with holes aligned using 3/8 drill . Oil is topped up with GL4 oil. Car is secured on axle stands ( I know this is not recommended, but, I don't want to risk taking it out at this point ). I've taken it up to 4000 revs in 3rd and 4th gears and repeatedly flicked the switch to no effect. There are no strange noises. I'll check and clean the operating valve. What's best to clean it with ? The car has not been on the road for some 5 years so there must be a strong possibility that something is stuck in the O/D box. It's suggested this may free off in time. Not sure what to do now. One option is to have it inspected to M.O.T. standard . At least then I could take it somewhere to have it looked at if necessary. Thanks for your advice gents. Couldn't have got this far without it. ......Neil

Your right mjit, the driveshafts were resting on the rails. She has to come off the stands and out of the garage. Regarding the idiot light, I know I have to tap in to the sol. wire, but what do I need ? , connectors, wire , bulb and holder ? Getting there.....Neil

Thanks for your help fellas, Yes bulb/buzzer, idea, for me, is a good one. As advised I put in a 10amp fuse. It's a stalk switch on the steering column. I'll let you know how I get on . ....Neil

Hi all, After some effort I now have the OD solenoid working. The car is secure on axle stands. Can I test the operation of the O/D gearbox in situ ? I have changed the oil, but, need to be sure it's at the correct level. Is there a recommended way ?Finally what would you recommend to protect the wires. I've seen various stuff advertised. .....Neil

Hi all...An auto electrician looked at the wiring on PPP, but, he's away now. Anyway , looking at how he's left the wires it doesn't look too difficult. This was before I fitted the solenoid. It may be obvious to most, but, the yellow wire that's cut needs to be connected to the one next to it with the spade connector ?Would I use bullet connectors ?You'll notice the new relay . I'll post pics of the other wires down to the sol etc later. Thanks...Neil

Hi all..Can I appeal for some help please. It's basic wiring for the O/D solenoid. I have a new relay, wiring loom and I've amazed myself by fitting a new solenoid. With the help of Pete Lewis with the 2 page guide. I have power from ignition and battery to the relay. I dare not try and wire it myself. It's on axle stands and the engine will start and I have a pit which I don't think will be needed. I've been let down twice. It's very frustrating. I'm at Shepshed in Leicestershire. ......Neil

Hi all..Thanks for your help gents so far. With the old O/D solenoid in a chorroded state I've have a new one from Moss. Incidentally the two screws have been replaced by bolts. I've not fitted the solenoid yet. As far as I can see there is no power to the solenoid wire from the relay. I'm getting normal volts from the fusebox and ignition. I have the cover off the relay and its chorroded but the points are closing ok. I've cleaned everything up. Still no power to the sol wire. Will the stork or inhibitor switch affect this ? The sol wire will be replaced. What amps would I need for wire and fuse ?... Regards Neil

Hi all...More about the Overdrive solenoid on my 1970 Vitesse. Yes the ' dodgy ' wire from the crimp to the solenoid is of a smaller guage than the Y/P wire from the relay. It's not a problem with removing the lower screw on the sol. because it's not there ! The top screw was not loose but certainly not tight. I noticed a very slight movement on the solenoid itself . I'm going to replace it. I've managed to borrow a pump to clear the water in the pit. I'll have a go with the dreaded screw and see what happens. Where's the solenoid earth ? I started not much further than scratch here you understand... Regards. Neil

Thanks for your help Colin. Looks like I need a sender. My attention is on the O/D for the moment. With the help I've just read on this forum I should be able to move forward a bit. .....Neil

Once again thank you gents. Some learning curve this is ! Ah some good news, accidentally caught the O/S indicator and it's working ! ....Neil

The time had come to have a look at the O/D . To the best of my memory it was working, next day it wasn't. No unhealthy noises and no slip in reverse. As advised by Canley, I took the plate off to look at the solenoid arm, started her up ( she's on axle stands ) put her in 3rd and tried the lever switch on the column. No movement at all. With the engine off and in 3 and moving the switch I can hear a faintish clicking which seems to be coming from the battery area. If you look at the pic. Showing my inexperience , is the the O/D engaged ? If it is , does this mean I'm best not to reverse the car ?

Hi all..Back to my first post. Having repaired the old ( herald )tank . I now have a six screw tank off a Mk 1 2 litre Vitesse. The sender is jamed I'm hoping to free it off. The tank looks in good condition...need to get the muck out of course. Will it go in my 1970 Vitesse okay ? Cheers...Neil. How the heck do you get the O/D solenoid bottom bolt out...cor blimey !

Hi fellas...She's running and sounds quite sweet, idles and picks up revs well. I'm pretty sure it was the LT earth connection on the points. This wire and the short fabric covered one need replacing, but, they don't seem to be available. I noticed the baseplate is marked ' oil ' . I imagine this is one drop of light oil ? Next is to replace the herald tank with a Vitesse tank . Thanks for your help fellas

Hi all...as suggested here are a couple of pics; The gent. at Canley says my engine No. MEA253ESS denotes a factory recon. originally intended for an auto or an estate. It is not the one recorded in the reg. doc. The distributor should not be a Delco and by the numbers I gave would be fitted on a GT6 11/111 . He said just order the dizzy parts as for GT6. I've read the SS above denotes silver seal. Oh I've repaired the tank mentioned in a previous post, but, it's a Herald tank. I've managed to get a replacement for a Vitesse...Thanks again.... Neil Oh..you'll notice the brown wire is tied in a knot...can't be good surely.

Hi all..In reply to Colin, main reason for suspecting the coil was that it was stone cold even with the ignition on for some time. As Pete's advised I'll look at the points etc, replace them in fact. Another concern is that I can turn the dizzy cap at least 1/4 " . I would have thought there would be a locating lug inside the cap which fits in the slot on the main body....Thanks all.

Hi all... Having little experience with HT or LT circuits I'm not sure what's failing. When using a spark tester gizmo ( the one that's lights up blue ) there is zero lights or sparks nor does the coil warm up. I'm sure there is power going to the + on the coil. The distributor is an AC Delco 200. The coil is a Lucas DLB 105. Not sure wether I should have , but I earthed the coil to the block and it was warm in 10 minutes.... regards Neil

Pete ..I'm based in Leicestershire. Shepshed in fact. I've ordered the bits from Burlen. Great 'vintage' website and very clear. Regards...Neil

Thanks very much gents. I'll go to Burlen.😊

Hi all...I presume the service kit is the same for the CD150 and the CDS150 and what does the S denote ? The numbers; prefixes look like 935 and 835 stamped ' sideways ' . Main Numbers 3224F and 3224R . Are these in order ? 1970 MK11 Vitesse CV Thanks...Neil

That's so clear and helpful, thanks. BTW the original was changed to the cherished plate I have now. ....Neil

My Vitesse was completely restored about 1992. I've been looking at the pics album and the reg. No. is different. The chassis No. is H056210 ( CV )so this seems fine. It looks like the tank has been changed for a six screw job. As mentioned it should be the 12v thingie which I understand little about. It is the larger one. As Pete Lewis says the six screw are rare. At the risk of repeating myself can I just fit a bayonet type ? Mick Dolphin did his best to help He has pages and pages of spares on his website.....Thanks...Neil

Hi all...I need to replace a leaking fuel tank. The drain plug & pipe has been removed and patched and that's where it leaks. It is a six screw type sender. I've bid for one on eBay, clearly the same size tank, but now I'm not sure wether it has the locking ring type sender. Does it make a difference ? Thanks...Neil

Hi all...Here's a progress report on my 1970 vitesse convertible. Your ' hunch was right Pete Lewis. Stuck the new slave on and it worked ! I'm sure you know there's a lot more travel on the pedal than the arm. I remember if I booted it the clutch slips a little. That can wait. I have reasonable confidence about tackling that having learnt quite a bit on here...thanks ! I've replaced master cylinders and calipers and have ' 'good pedal 'on the brakes. Never done that before. She's on axle stands. Tried to start her without success. The fuel pressure seems good. I need to service the carbs and I've ordered an in-line spark tester. She last ran two years ago Thanks again..Neil

Many thanks Pete and Adrian. Last time I changed a clutch was about 35 years ago on a mini. ...Neil

All your replies are much appreciated. Looks like a new clutch. On the face of it seems the most difficult bit is mating the box back up to the bell housing. I'm wondering if it's worth hiring a foldable engine hoist. It has the overdrive unit. Regards..Neil