VixenPPP

Thank you gents.

These readings are on DLB105 Lucas coil. I believe it's an oiled filled coil. Fitted to a 1970 Vitesse. Is it worth investing in a modern more efficient coil ( so I'm told )?

The meter must be faulty because after turning the dial backwards and forwards a few times I'm getting different readings on the same settings i.e 200m and 20k ohms. I'll take it in to my local garage and ask them to check it. Understood about the condenser. Thanks gents

Yes, that reads 1 and remains at 1 when disconnected. As you can see the connections and settings are correct. I've double and triple checked them. It's an Delco D200 dizzy and I'm getting a weak spark with an online plug tester.

Is this a case of a faulty coil, my incompetence or a faulty meter ?

It's not corroded. It's a loose fit probably less than 1mm clearance.

Thanks again for your help gents. A pressed fit makes sense. I don't know what's happened. But at least the question has been answered. .....Neil

The engine number has a ME prefix which indicates it was originally fitted to a Triumph 2000. The PCV must be air tight surely. I'll try an o ring and see if it makes a difference. I've tested the compressions and all cylinders gave readings of 140/150. Thanks....Neil

I'm told the manifold is off a triumph 2000 and looking at a picture of one it is the same. Since I've had the car it's only developed this starting problem recently, so, it will run fine with the wrong manifold fitted. I don't quite know where to go from here. What about blocking off the breather hole in the manifold completely ? Can't see why a replacement manifold is needed. Oh, you will see the pic upload worked this time, must be me. Thanks....Neil

Gents....The pics will not upload, but, I have posted on FB TSSC. It's been suggested the manifold is off a triumph 2000. It was running fine, but, something has broken and needs fixing.

Yes, I've looked at that Pete. It's not the same. The diaphragm valve sits in the hole on top. It's not secured and is not airtight.

Having looked at service manuals pics of the emission the control system mine appears not to be the same. It's a Vitesse Mk11 . I hope the pics make it clears. The diaphragm valve just rests in the hole on the top of the manifold. It's clearly not as it should be. Would this cause the engine not to start ? Is there anything else connected directly into the manifold that could cause the engine not to start ? It won't allow me to post pictures. A major difference is that the manifold ' rail ' has two holes, one, on top, where the valves sits, the, other pointing forwards, just below. This has a hose connected to it which has been blanked off. Thanks....Neil

I took My 1970 Vitesse for a pre-mot inspection last Autumn. I've put the faults right, the most serious being some minor welding in the boot area. I took it for a test drive and all was fine for a few miles then it coughed and spluttered and conked out. It was and is, almost certainly fuel related. I've replaced the fuel tank and all the hoses will be replaced with barricade hoses. I've squirted petrol into the carbs and she has fired up a couple of times. On disconnecting the hose to the carbs the fuel seems to be pumping out at a good pressure. I've dismantled the carbs and cleaned them and replaced gaskets. The fault seems to be connected to the carbs. Have I blocked a passageway or something ? Neil

Further to my conking out problem. I've looked at possible faults you gents advised. I've had the carbs off, thoroughly cleaned them, needle jets were clean and I've recentered the main jets. Fuel lines are fine. It appears to be an ignition fault. Anyway I've fitted a powerspark ignition kit. She fired up instantly, but, sounded very rough and blew the emission control disc thingy off the manifold. On trying to start her, the engine turns freely then slows to a point where it almost stops then runs freely again. She fires up, but will not run. Ignition timing or something more serious ? ....Neil

Test drove PPP ' Vixen ' again yesterday evening . All good for 3 miles or so then she spluttered and juddered and ran erratically until she conked out. By disconnecting the fuel hose and cranking the engine confirmed fuel to the carbs, but, I've done this many times and this time the pressure seemed excessive. It conked out three times before limping home. Essentially, after checks, it seemed a matter of time before she would restart. I'm thinking examine the carbs, replace hoses, second fuel filter maybe. Are electric pumps recommended ? MK 2 Vitesse. .....Neil

Hi all, I'm a little further with the horn fault. As advised, I connected a jumper lead onto the shaft itself inside the engine bay to the negative terminal on the battery the horn works on pushing the horn button, also by taking a wire from the the clamp next to the clutch pedal then through the bulkhead and onto earth on the steering rack, again the horn works. I can't detect any bridging wire on the uj. The manual says this is soldered on. It seems quite inaccessible. Is there an easier way of bridging the uj ? ......Neil

Hi all...I have a new pencil brush and slip ring from Paddocks. Using an old bearing puller I've managed to take the steering wheel off and prise out the old slip ring. It looks like it needs to be dismantled further in order to connect the purple wire on the new slip ring. I'm not sure how to go about this. It has only one horn, I can see where the second one would have been. Finally, i've read the horn has its own relay switch. I can't see one. .... Neil

Hope this helps. Thank you anyway. I'll report back. ...Neil

Yes I have the pencil.

Looking at the push button contact there is a lump of solder on it. These things are expensive. I'm wondering wether to replace it. ...Neil

First of all is my 1970 Vitesse fitted with two horns ? I can only find one on the passenger side which is working when it's wired up directly to the battery. I'm getting zero when using the horn push. The screws attaching the steering wheel are chewed up as you'll see, so, that would prove difficult to remove. Is there a trial and error sequence of tests you can do to find where the fault is on the horn ? When this horn is fixed she will be road legal, so as you can imagine the hooter problem is very frustrating. ....Neil Russell

I don't understand this. Is this the right lamp for the inner light. As you will notice the bulb has one prong. Should it not have two ? like the sealed unit I've taken out. Anyway it doesn't work and when I put the sealed unit back in, it works. .....Neil

Thanks for your comments gents. The driver's seat's o.k apart from being hard to move backwards and forwards. There were packing washers missing when I removed it and I've learnt on this forum something could be distorted. I've reached the point now where she needs roadtesting. I'll see what the M.O.T. guy sez. ( he's just around the corner ) about the turret. He's a similar age to me ( old ) . Hopefully he will have some empathy. In fact, he has an interesting collection of old cars on his forecourt. ........Neil

1970 Vitesse CV, Hi all, I'm having a frustrating time re-fitting the seat runners The front bolts are ok. The holes in the turrets have been enlarged. Looks like a previous owner has had problems with the captive nuts. Apart from the holes the turrets are sound. What about drilling through the floor ? ....Neil

Hi, Yes the light comes on when I flick the switch. It's wired into the feed to the solenoid. I get your point about 'switch on' and not ' valve open' . A simple thing , what a catastrophe ! ....Neil