avivalasvegas
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Posts posted by avivalasvegas
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4 hours ago, dougbgt6 said:
Well done, some great upgrades. But, it never ends, there's always something.
Doug
Cheers! One can dream….
4 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:i little puzzled out of the list of changes what was the cause of it tunnel stalling as none have much to do with
that problem .....
Pete
Fuel line rubber sliver blocked carb. Loss of coolant the other time!
2 hours ago, clive said:What is the pressure gauge for?
Oil (Decoration) mostly!
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27 minutes ago, johny said:
Very nice but is that rad overflow pipe completely full though? Looks not but maybe youve just put the cap back on?
Don’t think so but will check again
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After stalling in the Rotherhithe tunnel not once but twice, the following reliability/ cosmetic enhancers were completed today:
- New TRW Clutch Master cylinder and copper pipe (Girling NOS sourced from Dave Kingerly @ Longbridge last year binned)
- New fuel hoses from tank to carb
- New Silicone (OE style) coolant hoses
- New Heater valve and Valve cover gasket
- Knee pads (missing since my purchase) + Smiths black surround gauges (inspired by Mr. Triumph Mr Clark himself)
- Gear boot metal surround
- New Magnecor plug leads
Let’s hope this marks the end of all preventable misadventures!
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If you can find them, W78 plugs are excellent. (No R or X). Long discontinued but old stock is available every now and again.
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Back on topic (atleast for a bit)
Turns out the prize goes anyone who guessed rotten fuel hose sliver. A nasty expanded piece was stuck in one of the carbs - shrank down when starved of fuel. This meant the car started okay but eventually starved to death. A quick clean up job and the GT6 is back to purring like a kitten.
All fuel hose was just replaced inside the engine bay. I plan to install an inline filter ahead of the fuel pump. Also replacing the heater valve and coolant hose with silicone hoses as well.
Two questions for anyone still paying attention:
1) Does the tank-to-fuel pump fuel line require any special order hose?
2) Is there anything else preventative that can be done to prevent unexpected breakdowns? I’m really not keen to stall in the Rotherhithe tunnel again!
Cheers!
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1 minute ago, Ian Foster said:
Cliff
I also have a VOX (VT30) amp. Clever bit of kit. (epic thread drift BTW)
Do we know if the patient is running on points or EI.
Heater valve could easily drop water on the exhaust manifold. Hot coolant has a definite smell, but not sure I have ever smelt it burnt off an exhaust.
Picture shows water to normal level in the rad, but has it been lost from the system, ie has the level in the overflow bottle changed?
Ian
Patient is definite running Lumenition Magnetronic. The thermostat was just replaced last month. Overflow bottle appears normal.
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Yes. I do have an auxiliary fan that kicks in when the temperature gauge needles crosses into the dangerous half. It did kick in and stayed on earlier when I was stuck in traffic fearing a breakdown.
It did not the second time when I fueled up the car as the drive was too short.
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The car is officially in trouble. I was able to get it to the petrol station despite idle dropping to <500 rpm (It was a healthy 900 rpm before these symptoms began). After filling up, it's almost as if the car entered "limp home" mode. Throttle did nothing except what sounded like flooding.
Releasing throttle meant the car died instantly. It did get me home though. There's no way I will make it to a garage - it'll need to be recovered.
Plugs are new, as are the Magnecor leads.
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The plot thickens. The car began sputtering and died a few times on my way home. Could be ignition or fuel related but my first thought was “I’ve run out of coolant” and I intentionally entered the bus lane to limp home.
Coolant looks fine. Oil level looks and smells good. What on earth is going on?
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Looks like I’m not the only one experiencing this!
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On a weekend recent drive, we noticed an acrid burning smell in the cabin. "Tooting has gone downmarket" was my first thought. But the smell followed us into Clapham, and so we pulled over only to discover this smokey smelly vapour. Initial thoughts were an oil leak, reminding me that I need a new valve cover seal. But then I remembered that I had just turned the heating from "cabin" to "off" position. The symptoms have since subsided by switching the heating back to "screen". A couple questions:
1) Assuming this is the heater valve, any recommendations on a replacement unit?
https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-GRID007995 <- rimmer option
2) Anyone recommend rocker cover seal for square alloy covers? I was tempted by silicone but hear that cork suits the alloy covers better?
3) I need new hoses - any known silicone replacements?
Many thanks in advance!
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The set from DC performance definitely don’t appear “fake”. Very high quality and custom built by Magnecor. Very impressive!
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Highly recommend ATSpeed Racing. Genuinely great human beings and wizards when it comes to SUs on their rolling road. My GT6 has never run better.
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On 10/02/2022 at 18:13, Nick Jones said:
I use the plain Cohline 2240 myself but Glencoe sell this
Nick
That looks practically indestructible. Is doesn't appear to be the correct thickness though?
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I was curious to know if the equivalent of a TR toolkit/ tool roll option existed for the GT6?
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After having a sticky SU carb float cause a fuel leak, my other half's death stares made me realize that I may be woefully unprepared for future roadside repair. Did Triumph ever supply a tool kit for the 60's era cars? Cost aside, I may like to procure one to keep the car original.
Any other "must haves" to ensure road survival?
Thanks in advance!
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After a brief exchange with Magnecor, the correct part # for the GT6/ TR6 and Vitesse is 6507. Least expensive place I could find them for sale below:
https://www.dcperformance.co.uk/cheap/846419/magnecor-kv85-ignition-leads/mgn-6507.html
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This is the only one I've inspected in person (not my car), with really well engineered connectors
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My Chinese unit ruptured at the angle/ bend where the metal is thinnest. It was clear that cost saving was the reason for the poor design.
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+1 for Aaron’s. They been around forever.
Had to take my old rad to them after the new Chinese aluminum radiator was sent back after it developed a leak. Fantastic service!
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The quality just isn’t there. I know of 3 instances where fluid leaks sprung from the bend areas where they skimp on the metal to save £. Avoid and go for a recore if you can’t get a non Chinese unit.
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2 hours ago, Dick Twitchen said:
Or they claim/you assume they do?
As I shared, I go by his results. The car has never cold started/ driven as well as it has following couple of hours with grumpy. So if he suggests something that earns him no money, I'm more inclined to trust him now.
New GT6 MK2 Purchase - The journey of improving it further!
in General
Posted
Very strange as I have checked again after your post and see zero rubbing. Did you have any sort of bonnet insulation/ lining installed?