(1).jpg.d3b33daf18fc5a296d32084f188eb05b.jpg)
jagnut66
-
Posts
479 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
1
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Gallery
Downloads
Store
Events
Posts posted by jagnut66
-
-
Hi,
Whilst I've been faffing around with the clutch I've obviously been going in and out of the car on both sides on a regular basis.
The image below shows the end result, regarding my new replacement courtesy light switches. They were a bad fit to start with and kept 'popping' out, with the inevitable end result that they both got crushed. They were rubbish as 'earthed switches' too, as they made poor contact on the occasions they did consent to stay in place, which ensured that the courtesy light only worked intermittently at best.
To be fair to the 'well known' supplier, I haven't seen any better advertised for sale elsewhere and the originals didn't seem to be much better in quality.
So can anybody on here recommend a source of decent ones.
Other classics I have seen have a threaded screw in version, maybe that would be the answer?
I think these push in versions (with highly breakable clips) are the cheap option, to say the least......
Best wishes,
Mike.
-
Okay, as soon as my friend has time to pop over I'll give it another go.
10 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:firstly the bleed nipple must be on the top of the feed pipe
I take it you mean the bleed nipple on the slave, which is in the top position.
Best wishes,
Mike.
-
Hi,
Been a while but I have been busy on other things (house decorating etc.), anyway, I felt I was going round in circles and getting nowhere fast, so also took a break from it for that reason.
To recap on where I'm at:
The thrust washers have been replaced on the 1200 engine. Well one is new and the other is the best of the old ones, otherwise it was too tight. The engine has been running and seems happy (touching lots of wood! 😉).
I have replaced both the master and slave. I had a friend round to help me bleed it through, the result of which was good pedal pressure.
I also picked up on an article on another Triumph site, which seemed to recommend what another has done above, in that they moved the slave cylinder forward and it cured their problem. Despite my statement above, I still couldn't engage gears and my friend (who is a trained mechanic) checked over what I had done and confirmed it was all correctly installed, so no fault there.
So I used my angle grinder to create a second slot for the pinch bolt and moved the slave forward in its housing.
The result was excellent pedal feel, at least as good as I've had on my Minors, I felt I might finally have a working clutch......
Did it work, did it hell!
It isn't the distance the bearing / carrier has to travel to reach the cover's splines, that's fine. However, it's like no matter how firm the pedal is, it just won't push into them and engage the clutch.
I feel like I've just completed another circuit of that circle......
So have two questions....... before I push it into a field.......
I know others on here have successfully done this, so what clutch components did you use? Namely was it a standard Herald 1200 clutch cover with a 1300 driven plate? Standard 1200 / 13/60 release bearing?
Secondly does anyone know of a good, reputable, Triumph mechanic in or near the Nottingham area?
I think I've run out of ideas (as well as patience).
Best wishes,
Mike.
-
I am still leaning towards a drain somewhere, however, reading everybody's comments has left me wondering if I'm not being pulled in the wrong direction and that it might be the battery after all.
I don't know the answer yet.
Sorry, I work during the week, so it may be the weekend before I get back on this.
Best wishes,
Mike.
-
2 hours ago, Unkel Kunkel said:
My reasoning was that if I only ever used once it was cheaper than buying a new battery or alternator if it demonstrated I didn’t need to.
Thanks, I'm now watching one on eBay, link below for others interested.
2 hours ago, Unkel Kunkel said:Importantly for me, it is very simple to use.
I'm also more than happy with this being the case! 👍
Best wishes,
Mike.
-
Hi,
Thought I'd change tack with this post........
We all have our reasons, be they cars you remember from when you were young, a car you once owned that you wish you'd been able to keep or just a sudden whim that led to a more long term association.
I thought it might be interesting for people on here to indulge in a personal trip down memory lane.......
Mine is a sentimental attachment to a car that will be forever associated with my childhood, that was sadly sold and written off before I was old enough to drive / express an interest in keeping it in the family.
It goes a bit deeper than that, in that it's a car that I will forever associate with my parents also.....
So here she is: 99 EMO with my mum at the wheel, my dad would have been behind the camera. I believe this was taken before I came along:
Best wishes,
Mike.
-
15 minutes ago, Wagger said:
Before you give up on the battery, charge it, leave it disconnected overnight, then connect up and try to start next day. Check how many start ups you can do. If it can do ten, then it is ok.
I have been charging it, but I will give this test a go, once it's fully charged again. We shall see.
Best wishes,
Mike.
-
7 minutes ago, Wagger said:
Do not fit things like a voltmeter, radio etc unless it is NOT permanently connected.
The radio only has the memory circuit as a permanent live, standard for many car radios I believe and never a problem on any car I have had before?
As an aside, I removed the courtesy light switches from the A posts, pulled the wires on each side, cut off the old connectors, cut back the wire to good clean copper and fitted new brass bullet connectors.
The switches looked manky, so I've ordered new ones. The driver behind this was that, apart from looking bad, a couple of the retaining clips snapped off.
Plus, with new connectors attached, when the wires were earthed, the courtesy light works again (both sides tested).
Unfortunately, with the wiring for the door switches disconnected, the battery voltage still drops, so not the answer......
Best wishes,
Mike.
-
1 hour ago, Wagger said:
Have you fitted a new fuse box or is it as built?
The Herald started life without a fuse box and I have simply added inline fuses for things I have added, like the radio and 12V charge point.
37 minutes ago, SpitFire6 said:The battery is dead.
Ahhh............
You are not the first to suggest this possibility, however, as it accepted a charge from my charger and then happily sat on 'charged and maintaining' until I disconnected said charger, I discounted this. That said though, with all other possibilities exhausted, I guess that leaves only one (rather expensive these days) remaining option. Still at least (once purchased) it's an easy job to do.
For the record the battery has been disconnected from everything since the last test, I have checked it and it had settled around 13V, obviously when reconnected it starts to drop further.
18 hours ago, johny said:Strange, wonder if the meter is ok. With it connected in series to the battery, on opening a door you should see a reading when the interior light comes on?
Sorry, I meant to reply to this one earlier, my interior light only works intermittently, another job on the 'to do' list. However, switching the lights on and then off again does cause the battery voltage to drop and then rise once more.
50 minutes ago, Unkel Kunkel said:There are types where a there is a fused link crossing the isolator - this allows a 12 V current to pass subject to the size of the fuse.
This looks a better option then:
Best wishes,
Mike.
-
11 hours ago, SpitFire6 said:
Hi Mike,
are you referring to the voltage dropping from 14 volts to 12.6 Volts?Or
Are you talking about the voltage dropping from 12.6 Volts to a lower voltage?
Cheers,Iain.
Taken from my original post:
QuoteDuring which I put my meter across the battery, it read about 14.5 volts, I switched off and it dropped to about 13.5, then carried on dropping whilst I watched.........
I disconnected the alternator (to rule out backflow), no effect. The coil, no effect. The radio, no effect. The starter motor, no effect.
Then I disconnected the positive lead from the starter solenoid. with just the earth lead connected to the battery the volt reading started to go back up!?
I walked away and left it a while to make sure it wasn't my imagination.
It had dropped to a reading of 13.19 volts.
It now read 13.27 volts.
To summarise: with the engine on it charges at about 14.5 volts, the drop off starts when I switch the engine off and continues, past the point at which I can no longer turn the engine over, until the battery is flat or I disconnect the positive lead.
13 hours ago, PeteH said:Depends on the Age/Quality of the Radio?
Fairly new, so hopefully okay then.
Best wishes,
Mike.
-
I'm looking at one of these, that connects to the negative terminal. Nice and straightforward.
Will this still allow the radio retain it's memory (stations) though?
Best wishes,
Mike.
-
2 hours ago, DerekS said:
At risk of nagging, Is there a boot light fitted? If so, is it going off and staying off as it should? Can be a problem...
Derek.
I had to check, no boot light fitted
At present, because one would be useful.
7 hours ago, johny said:please put us out of our misery Mike!
Nothing????
Yet, when both battery leads are connected, as I said in an earlier post, there is a very clear, continuous, drop when the car is switched off.
So, although I don't think we're "chasing nothing", I am beginning to think I am chasing a shadow. And one that might drive me to distraction.
Therefore I think the next thing I will do is source a battery isolator, any recommendations?
Best wishes,
Mike.
-
22 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:
if its charging and does it actually go flat (well low enought to not start)
Yes, it has done, several times and quite quickly.
7 hours ago, Wagger said:If there is an unwanted load that cannot be found, fit a battery isolator. That will stop unwanted drain.
If I can't find it, then that's a good option.
6 hours ago, johny said:All this could be clarified very quickly by setting the multimeter to the highest DC amp scale (maybe changing lead positions on it) and, with the ignition off, connecting the meter between a battery terminal and its disconnected lead. You dont have to touch anything else to see if theres a drain current showing - please put us out of our misery Mike!
I was going to have another go at the weekend but I don't want anybody to suffer a breakdown......... 😉
Best wishes,
Mike.
-
9 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:
lets get back to basics
Thanks Pete.
-
8 hours ago, SpitFire6 said:
My understanding is that when the battery has been fully charged & battery is connected the voltage falls quicker than with the battery left unconnected
Correct Iain.
7 hours ago, Unkel Kunkel said:Does the battery ( assuming it’s a good ‘un) go flat eventually ?
It did once but I have since recharged it.
38 minutes ago, PeteH said:In recent years, I have taken to connecting small (15W) solar panels to any standing batteries, tends to be just enough to keep them "live".
Pete
Interesting, something for when the drain has been traced and fixed though.
Do you have a link(s) to the set up you use?
Best wishes,
Mike.
-
1 hour ago, SpitFire6 said:
Cheers,
Iain.PS: Personally I like it best in black Iain. 👍
-
13 minutes ago, johny said:
When the battery was completely isolated Iain the voltage 'started to go back up' and I cant think of any explanation of that other than a drain.
Not completely Johny, which was the bit that puzzled me, the earth was still connected (positive disconnected).
Many thanks to all, I am reading the replies with interest, there are other (non electrical) things I need to resolve but, regarding this problem, I will start with the 'usual suspects' mentioned in the earlier posts. If anyone has more possibilities to add, please do, it could be anything at this stage.
Best wishes,
Mike.
-
2 hours ago, PeteH said:
I have this one
Added it to my list, I will get one after payday next week.
I take it that, with everything switched off, I am looking for anything flowing out, say on the headlamp wiring for example.
Best wishes,
Mike.
-
3 minutes ago, johny said:
Unfortunately I think your alternator is a later addition so your wiring isnt standard however, yes, most likely to be something in the permanently live system which is basically horns and lights....
Thanks Johny.
Would my (1970) car have been positive earth originally?
Best wishes,
Mike.
-
30 minutes ago, foshi said:
you dont have anything like a aftermarket boot light switch
No, nothing like that. I do have ancillaries though, high level brake light, reversing light, gauges etc. But nothing that isn't dependant on the ignition being on, with the exception of the radio's memory circuit and I've already checked that.
However, you have reminded me to include the door courtesy light switches in my 'things to check' list. 👍
Best wishes,
Mike.
-
The only fuses my Herald has are the inline ones that I've added......
I was under the impression that the Herald's creators didn't believe in them...... 😉
One thought that occurred to me as I wandered back to her was that, as she is still draining the battery with the ignition off and key removed, then it must be one of the permanent live circuits at fault.
Or is my reasoning in error here?
Best wishes,
Mike.
-
14 minutes ago, JohnD said:
You have a short from the starter solenoid.
But that doesn't tell you much, as the power supply to the rest of the car comes via that.
Thanks John.
I take it there are no 'common causes' to check out first?
Best wishes,
Mike.
PS: The link to the colour circuit diagram is really helpful, I have copied onto my PC, so I can print it off -- at some point Hetty may well get a new wiring loom. 👍
-
Hi,
Well, one thing has remained consistent during my Heralds hiatus, that is an ongoing power drain issue.
I have disconnected various items today in order to eliminate them but one thing has made me do a double take.
To start at the beginning, the first thing I did today, having had the battery on charge overnight, was start her up and allow the engine to run for half an hour.
During which I put my meter across the battery, it read about 14.5 volts, I switched off and it dropped to about 13.5, then carried on dropping whilst I watched.........
I disconnected the alternator (to rule out backflow), no effect. The coil, no effect. The radio, no effect. The starter motor, no effect.
Then I disconnected the positive lead from the starter solenoid. with just the earth lead connected to the battery the volt reading started to go back up!?
I walked away and left it a while to make sure it wasn't my imagination.
It had dropped to a reading of 13.19 volts.
It now read 13.27 volts.
So what is going on?
I'm hoping someone on here can offer some clues or point me in the right direction.
Best wishes,
Mike.
-
Decent replacement courtesy light switches for the Herald -- are there any other options out there?
in Electrical System
Posted
Almost in answer to my own question, I have spotted these:
https://www.googleadservices.com/pagead/aclk?sa=L&ai=DChcSEwjg7MO4--KFAxV4lVAGHXzaCS8YABAGGgJkZw&ase=2&gclid=CjwKCAjwxLKxBhA7EiwAXO0R0O6c0bVGMAtuvnXGYZiGnMqrDOWyW7kDKgWfqMS2J2AzZmoqlwgrqRoCjU0QAvD_BwE&ohost=www.google.com&cid=CAESVuD2nRVp2FVQ_L_I8cPVzeIbPB9bX5fT0YcGp79LSNPKWsCO3F04gpNZMFec1Jl7qBXTH9qk4ZFNj2o_zBUxh3HWCrxgYIc02PQlNcYwO-Uixd5DMio8&sig=AOD64_3WGEBo3W4uBd_Fob2UWCP5r_q2-g&ctype=5&q=&nis=4&ved=2ahUKEwji0r24--KFAxW2VEEAHcJtBvUQ9aACKAB6BAgFECw&adurl=
https://www.googleadservices.com/pagead/aclk?sa=L&ai=DChcSEwjg7MO4--KFAxV4lVAGHXzaCS8YABAEGgJkZw&ase=2&gclid=CjwKCAjwxLKxBhA7EiwAXO0R0HW8xKUYIsB-tHvPDWJA79F2yNLjGEYdBbBIWWmfHrsJFZhAHHFLWhoCecAQAvD_BwE&ohost=www.google.com&cid=CAESVuD2nRVp2FVQ_L_I8cPVzeIbPB9bX5fT0YcGp79LSNPKWsCO3F04gpNZMFec1Jl7qBXTH9qk4ZFNj2o_zBUxh3HWCrxgYIc02PQlNcYwO-Uixd5DMio8&sig=AOD64_1XACs5W8aLV3mRgX0bEy85p5ZmHw&ctype=5&q=&nis=4&ved=2ahUKEwji0r24--KFAxW2VEEAHcJtBvUQ9aACKAB6BAgFEBE&adurl=
But what do others think?
Best wishes,
Mike.