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jagnut66

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Posts posted by jagnut66

  1. That really is a pile of parts you have there Colin. 😃

    The seat base appears to have only come apart at the seams but is otherwise all there, if that's the case then yes it will do the job, as I just need it as a pattern.

    Shame there's no back but c'est la vie............

    Are you okay to just send me the cover (will save on postage costs -- and packaging)?

    Let me know how much you want plus the cost of postage.

    Now I must hunt down a back.....

    Best wishes,

    Mike.

     

  2. 4 hours ago, Colin Lindsay said:

    I will be replacing the rear covers on my 13/60

    I forgot about the 13/60 saloon, which of course will be the same shape / size. The Vittesse saloons must be the same also, as the only real difference was bonnet design (and the engine size, I know.....😉)

    Thanks for considering me Colin.

    In the meantime I will broaden my title for this, to see if there are any others out there that might be available.

    Best wishes,

    Mike.

  3. 21 hours ago, johny said:

    yes could be air or the master cylinder internal seal leaking

    I hope not, it's the second new one I've bought and fitted recently.

    21 hours ago, DanMi said:

    Have you checked the crank end float? as that can make you need to pump the clutch to push the crank forward, then next press it works, happened to me many years ago spent ages trying to bleed the clutch, before I finally found the culprit (no internet help back then!)

    I'm not ignoring you Dan, just hoping it doesn't come to opening up the bottom of the engine to replace thrust washers. I need the car on the road at present.

    21 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:

    this seems like you still have air trapped in the slave 

    I'm hoping so Pete, I've ordered a spare cap for the master, which I can adapt to use with the easy bleed kit. If the problem doesn't go away during use I will give it another bleed through using this, as the first option.......

    Best wishes,

    Mike.

     

  4. Hi, 
    I am in need of a rear seat (base and back) for a 1200 / 1250 saloon, condition isn't too important, as long as the covers are good enough to be taken off and used as pattern templates.
    Alternatively, if you have a 1200 or 1250  in which you are replacing the interior, I would be more than happy with just the old covers for the base and back of the rear seat.
    Colour doesn't matter, as they are purely for pattern / shapes / sizes.

    Edit: I forgot to include the Herald 1360, plus if the Vitesse saloons share the same rear seat / style design, then of course I must include them also.
    Many thanks,
    Mike.

  5. Right, the four speed is back in, clutch bled and (with the reinstatement of that 'extension' piece) I can select all four gears and reverse. 

    I'm having a little trouble getting rid of that last little bit of air in the system though, so, following some old advice on here, I'm leaving the clutch pedal weighted down overnight. 

    I would use the easy bleed kit but I don't seem to have a suitable lid to fit my new master cylinder.

    On that subject, one difference I have noticed between my original lid, the lid on my brake master and the lid on my new slave master, is that the new slave master doesn't have that small air hole in the centre of the plastic lid, unlike the other two. 

    Would it be a good idea to drill one into it? It's a different size to the original lid, so I can't just swap them over.

    Best wishes,

    Mike.

  6. Hi, 

    This is the reply I got from Dave Mac:

    Quote

     

    Good morning 

     
    We can build you a brand new telescopic propshaft to replace your original for £165 PLUS VAT lead time is around 2 weeks and delivery would be £20 PLUS VAT.
     
    All we need is your flange to flange working (normal vehicle height) measurement and you are welcome to send your original unit so we can double check the flange pattern (we will send this back to you) or if you can send us a sketch of the PCD Bolt hole size and distances and also let us know if you have any clearance issues with flange fittings, if you have any large nuts protruding from your rear axle flange?

     

     
    I thought the price quite reasonable but (especially as the prop is now reattached to the car and I don't have a spare to measure or send them) where can I get the rest of the info they're after?
    Are the specs for the prop listed anywhere? Or does anyone have these noted down from when they've bought one in the past?
     
    Is a Herald 13/60 prop the same length / bolt pattern as one for a 1200? If so I may have an option B.............. (cunning plan to Baldrick fans...........)
    Many thanks,
    Mike.
     
  7. Is there a sliding two section prop available to replace the standard single piece unit fitted to Heralds?

    The single piece prop is a proper pain to remove and refit, the two section prop made up to mate to my OD box was a pleasure to install / uninstall by comparison.

    I did look at fitting this but it is too short due to the OD box being longer.

    Thanks and best wishes,

    Mike.

  8. 8 hours ago, johny said:

    Unusual to be that bad on 4th and ok on the other gears isnt it Pete? Could a stuck synchro be the cause?

    One thing I did forget to mention is that I always had a (not loud but distinctive) 'click click click click click click click etc etc'

    whenever first was engaged (not present on two or three though).

    First gear engaged though, apart from being notchy in doing so, like the rest.

    Best wishes,

    Mike.

  9. Well , as an update on this saga: Firstly, those who said the fat piece on the end of the push rod for the slave cylinder looked like an add on were right. 

    I thought it screwed on and tried to unscrew it a bit to get more length in my (at the time) ongoing efforts to get the OD gearboxes gears to engage smoothly.

    However, I found it was only tight with age and that, once I'd moved it once, the action of the clutch just pushed it back on again.

    So I pulled it off and found a small piece of threaded bar hidden inside, acting as a spacer. In a light bulb moment I made my own longer version, thinking this would finally give me the clutch action I (or my replacement box at least) needed for smooth gearchanges. 

    To no avail, try as I might, one, two and three got better but remained slightly 'notchy' when engaging. This I could have lived with but number four refused, point blank, to play ball. 

    No matter what I did it refused to stop protesting whenever I tried to engage it. 

    Unfortunately, I then realised what it was that it reminded me so much of. First gear on a Morris Minor gearbox. Why?

    Because it has no synchromesh and, unless engaged from a complete standstill, will protest most vehemently whenever you try and engage it.

    So my conclusion must be that I have been (whether knowingly or unknowingly I can't say) sold a pup.

    I would say now that the synchromesh on fourth is shot and the others will probably come out in sympathy in due course. 

    At some point I will have this box rebuilt, as I still think my Herald would benefit from an overdrive. However, for now, I must refit the original four speed box, to get the car mobile again.

    Thanks again for all your advice along the way, it has all been very useful and I will consider this a practice run. 

    Best wishes,

    Mike.

    As a post script, I note that with my four speed the slave never had an extension piece fitted, so I will leave that off unless it proves necessary.

    Something else for the spares pile..........

     

     

    DSCF4109.JPG

    DSCF4110.JPG

    DSCF4111.JPG

  10.  

    18 hours ago, DanMi said:

    Do send the bearing back for refund as it is not as described. If we don't we will keep being sold shoddy parts

    Unfortunately I suspect they will state that as the part numbers are different, original SKF 415441 / CCT70 / GBR209 vs new GBR207, that it is as described.

    Before they tell me that, as it has been fitted (for me to find all this out), it is now secondhand, so I can forget about a refund (polite version).

    To be fair, I would likely get this response from most places these days.

    I can however email or message them with a complaint and the comparison pictures that I have taken (below), which clearly show the difference in width.

    If more people complain about parts that don't compare with the original specs, then we might, eventually, get somewhere......

    Best wishes,

    Mike.

     

     

     

    Comparison --Domed GBR209 on left -- Flat GBR207 on right 1.jpg

    Comparison --Domed GBR209 on left -- Flat GBR207 on right 2.jpg

    Comparison --Domed GBR209 on left -- Flat GBR207 on right 3.JPG

  11. Thanks, yes, I thought it should pass through (as with the Morris).

    I also thought the original pressure plate would go again but looking at it now I think not. Bin job.

    I have bitten the bullet and ordered one from Rimmers for speed of delivery, it will be with me Saturday.

    The (domed) NOS release bearing has arrived, it was almost a shame to take it out of the original box and wrapper but it now sits where it should. So that's one good thing.

    I placed the new style flat one next to my old original and you can clearly see the difference in depth, I'm surprised more people aren't experiencing issues with the flat ones.

    I also have a new replacement master cylinder, should I need to replace the (new) one on the car (again).

    So hopefully this will be all bases covered. Fingers crossed...............

    If someone else can 'second' your identification of the incorrect NOS pressure plate, as being for a 1300, then I will advertise it as such, free to whoever needs one for just the cost of posting it. 

    It comes with its original box and brown wax paper, in case some wants to start a museum 😉..........

    Best wishes,

    Mike.

     

  12. Hi, 

    I have just fitted my replacement NOS pressure (cover) plate, which was advertised as being for a Herald, to find the forks sit on the centre of the driven plate, rather than allowing this to pass through the centre, as with the original pressure (cover) plate.

    Before I try and get another one off Rimmers or the like, I just wanted to confirm that I'm correct in that the centre of the driven plate should pass through the centre of the pressure plate.

    It is all bolted up in place and the bolts are fully home.

    Pictures below, showing the NOS one fitted (for now).....

    Many thanks,

    Mike.

     

    Replacement NOS Herald pressure (cover) plate.JPG

    Original Herald pressure (cover) plate.JPG

  13. I have just sourced a second NOS (CCT70) release bearing, from the States this time. It has cost me £31 including postage but since they are like Hens teeth I reckon it was worth it. One will be fitted along with my NOS pressure plate (cover) when it arrives. Hopefully (between the two of them) they'll last me for years.

    I may have found the reason why the correct type of replacement is hard to find (though correct me if I'm wrong), from what I have read on the net it appears that SKF (SKF 415441) are a French company, so this may be why there seems to be a lack of the correct bearings at present. I did a search with the other code, CCT70, this brought up several potential UK based suppliers, all showing the part as 'out of stock'.

    Best wishes,

    Mike.

     

  14. Just found this, NOS release bearing and bought it:

    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/134184963954

    Coded as: CCT70 though, rather than GRB207, which was what was printed on the label of the other NOS Quinton Hazell bearing which was highlighted earlier. GRB207 is the same reference that Rimmer uses for their flat ones. 

    When it arrives I will replace my Rimmers flat one.

    I also spotted these:

    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/193604974284?hash=item2d13c176cc:g:EQ0AAOSwPqlfJBnI

    But these are quoted as: Fits Vitesse, GT6, Dolomite Sprint, Dolomite 1850, Triumph 2000, Triumph 2500, TR7

    So would they be different to my Herald / Spitfire one? 

    Best wishes,

    Mike.

  15. 4 hours ago, Colin Lindsay said:

    and the curved diaphragm bearing?

    I have GRB 207, supplied by Rimmers. This has a flat face to it, as opposed to the original SKF 415441 which seems hard to find these days.

    I do have an original bearing, which has cleaned up well and I may well refit this when I remove the gearbox to replace the pressure (cover) plate.

    It sounds smooth when I turn it, so seems okay. The other spare one I have sounds a bit 'graunchy', so is probably only fit for the bin.

    2 hours ago, NonMember said:

    You keep referring to "an OD unit" - NONE of your problems are to do with having overdrive. What matters is that you are replacing a Herald 3-rail gearbox with a 1500 Spitfire single-rail one, with the fine spline input shaft.

     

    2 hours ago, NonMember said:

    However, neither of them are compatible with a single rail box, and you need a Dolomite 1300 driven plate.

    I stated somewhere near the start of this that I had sourced two NOS driven plates, to match the splines on the gearbox. I never said I had a problem with the driven plate.

    I have been referring to the pressure plate (or cover) and by inferring that was not up to the job, I meant that I have come to the conclusion that it may be worn out. As the NOS Herald one I spotted on eBay was only £26 I have bought this, so we shall see. At that price it would be silly not to, as I have no idea how long the old one has been fitted to the car.

    Best wishes,

    Mike.

  16. 14 minutes ago, johny said:

    Trouble is I think youve probably got the deep carrier and correct slave already installed so thats not the problem...

    I've bitten the bullet and ordered the NOS pressure plate and a replacement master cylinder, hopefully these will fix it, if not I'll be at a loss....

    23 minutes ago, DanMi said:

    I have an old stock Borg and Beck which is an SKF 415441 and has a depth of 19.6.

    Using the ref. number SKF 415441 I have found this online but only one place, so far, that has some, they're not cheap, which may be why Rimmers no longer stock them.....

    https://www.sp-spareparts.com/en/p/415441-tn-skf

    Out of interest I've requested a quote for the bearing from this lot:

    https://www.123bearing.eu/bearings-415441-TN-SKF

    Best wishes,

    Mike.

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