cliff.b

I thought 6 thou was within spec. How much are you expecting it to be?

Ok, I have got the dial gauge out, put it on the crank pulley and set it to zero. If I lever the pulley forward or get the clutch pressed I am only seeing it move about 0.02mm (maybe 1 thou, I think) However, if I push the pulley hard rearwards it moves about 0.13mm (about 5 thou) and then springs back to exactly where it was when the pressure is released. So overall, the crank can move about 6 thou, although not in the way I was expecting. Is this ok?

I am going to check all this stuff later. Would worn or missing thrust washer cause this sort of noise?

Yes, that's sort of what I was thinking. But trying to get my head around what would actually be happening to cause it. But the way you have explained it makes sense.

I noticed towards the end of last year that I was needing to fully depress the clutch pedal to ensure I always got a clean gear change, particularly when changing down to 2nd. Just thinking if a loose flywheel could contribute to this? Haven't worked out how at the moment 🤔

Will look at this again tomorrow.

Can you reuse the old bolts!

Just wondering, do the flywheel bolts not have lock tabs?

I don't know as generally I haven't noticed it when driving and I gave been listening to it from out of the car with the bonnet up. Easy enough to check though.

Hmm, although difficult to pinpoint the noise I was thinking the lower rear of the engine. Was suspecting big end 3 or 4 but guess what you experienced would fit the bill. Was you noise only noticeable at tickover? And did any other symptoms develop?

The nut is tight. I just tried to get it off to try running the engine without it but it doesn't want to shift, even with the starter motor trick. Trying to move the pulley by hand, I can't detect any longitudinal movement but I can feel some slight rotational play. But would that be an issue?

The engine was in the car when I got it. The engine number starts DM and ends ESS which I believe means it was a factory exchange unit at some point. It runs very well, there is zero smoke, uses very little oil. Odometer says 81k miles but who knows if that is genuine and if the engine has been replaced, when that was done. Judging by the way it generally runs and that everything has been painted, I was thinking it was rebuilt when the rest of the car was, but who knows.

Just thinking, previously the but fell off and it was running without it making a similar sort of noise as the pulley was moving. Could that have damaged the keyway and if so, what can be done? Hopefully not a new crank.

Did that, no difference

There didn't seem to be but will take another look. Removing fan belt made no difference. I also changed the oil as I was going to do it soon anyway. Thought it had improved matters but went for a drive and when I got back I think it sounded the same as before.

Not yet. I will try that.

Didn't notice this noise last year but heard it when I put the car in the garage after the first run this year. Oil pressure gauge showing what it always has done. Oil light off and pressure climbs within seconds of start up and no rattling or anything else. Sits at about 65psi when cold and falls when warmed. When hot, the lowest the gauge shows is about 10psi per 1000RPM and 10 psi at idle. This hasn't changed. Using Castrol Classic, can't see anything fouling anywhere, crank pulley fell off last year, and noise does sound similar, but checked and tight. Doesn't sound like it's coming from the water pump. Probably does sound more like it's from bottom end of engine.

Out in the Spitty to day. Seems to be running well but on return I could here this on tickover. Can't here it when driving or when revs increased. Thoughts please 🤔 VID_20230131_113050.mp4

Ha ha 😊

Don't get me started 😬

Maybe it does have a backup battery but no longer doing the job after nearly 15 years. Or maybe Mini just don't want to lose any opportunity to get you to empty your wallet at the dealers. Based on previous experience that wouldn't surprise me. For example, brake warning lights that come on and will cause an MOT fail even though the brakes are fine. But the computer has decided that the pads will wear out before the next service. I prefer an analogue car lol

I'm not experiencing any problems 🤞 so I think I will just inspect and gap them this year.

At least there was a reason I couldn't fix it.

Maybe I will save my money then. Nowhere near that sort of mileage yet.

I haven't had any problems with the existing plugs, just thought it might be time to change them and seem to remember some claiming the Bosch plugs performed better than the traditional type. Not even sure I need to replace the old ones yet. How long do they usually last in our cars if all set up ok?