cliff.b

Ok, nut fitted, not as tight as it should be but tight enough to test and yes, the nasty noise has gone 🤞 I decided to take the pulley off to inspect and interestingly, there was no perceptible play, but the pulley did pull off easily. I need to get a suitable socket now and tighten properly.

Ha ha, that makes a lot of sense.

No, not in the noisy car lol

Thanks for the "heads up" regarding the clutch 👍

TRGB have a NOS nut on the shelf for under a tenner and only a few miles away. Off to get it shortly.

Yes, probably a good idea.

On the bright side, at least you will have a sense of achievement when it's done 🙄

I am hoping so as simple & cheap to fix if that is the case 🤞

Hmm, perhaps more common than I imagined then. Was his one noisy? I will have a look around on my drive later. The only thing that is more surprising than it falling off is how much s new one is 😒

I posted this on the club Facebook page as well and someone said they had the same noise and the nut holding the crank pulley had come off. I just went out with a torch to check and sure enough, mine has gone. No idea how and why I didn't hear it leaving. Hopefully, this is the cause but won't find out for certain until I manage to get a replacement.

I did think that but can't see where, at the moment. It's definitely in the engine area though so I think it would only be the downpipe against the chassis, which doesn't seem to be the case.

I will check that tomorrow. Tried to work out where the sound is coming from, listening with a long screwdriver, and it does seem to be from the bottom end of the engine. I was wondering if it could be a big end going, but would the noise dissspear when the revs rise? Or what about timing chain/tensioner?

Still does it with the fan belt off. I can't here it at higher revs, only at tickover and the slower the tickover the louder it is Here is a clip with it slowed right down almost to stalling VID_20220708_194656.mp4

Noticed today when ticking over with the bonnet open. VID_20220708_194551.mp4 Seems to be running well apart from this. Can't pinpoint where it's coming from. Any thoughts? VID_20220708_194551.mp4

I have had this problem multiple times over the years with a variety of cars. Usually, hitting the starter with a hammer released the Bendix, until the next time.

I didn't say there weren't any noises, just not from that area lol. Now the alternator is another matter 🙄

Out for a drive today and now covered 100+ miles since replacing the damaged shaft/bearings & the UJ. All feels smooth, can't hear any unexpected noises & both bearings barely warm so hoping the jobs a good'un 🤞

Glad the plan appears to have worked 👍

I measured the toe with 2 x2m lengths of straight wood & then swapped sides to eliminate anything that wasn't true. I can't remember the exact amount but the distance between the wood in front of the wheels was a few mm more than behind the wheels, so I assumed I had slight toe out. Removed one shim and then the measurement was less on the front of the wheel, so I assumed I had slight toe in.

As a rough measurement using a spirit level and a rule, the top of the rims are leaning in approx 1/4 inch compared to the bottom of the 13" rims which, if my calculations are correct, gives somewhere in the region of 1.5deg negative camber.

My car felt a bit scary when I first got it on the road last year, but the feeling of instability at the back was cured by changing from slight toe out to slight toe in. The steering was massively improved by replacing the front tyres which were a lower profile than the rear ones, giving a nose down stance, (I think this may have reduced the effective caster angle). Finally, I found several loose suspension bolts and experimented with tyre pressures. Now, apart from needing to concentrate on steering if a road has a poor surface, it mostly feels steady as a rock, runs and brakes straight "hands off" and corners very well. Maybe I should leave well alone 🤔

Ok, many thanks. I think the only way to decide if I should remove these spacers is to try it and then see how the car feels. But having inspected all the front suspension components I think I will replace the bushes and some of the bolts before too long, so probably would make sense to try it then.

Yes, I've heard that previously but the figure given in the Haines manual (2 to 4deg positive) specifically says with no occupants. Do you know if the camber spec is different to this if loaded like you have said?

Yes, that makes sense, I suppose.

I have also asked for opinions regarding this on the TSSC Facebook site and one member, who it would appear races a GT6, suggests that the positive camber and low front tyre pressures were specified to induce some moderate understeer for safety reasons. If this is true, I presume it would have been to compensate for the potentially interesting dynamics of the original rear suspension. Has anyone else ever heard of this?