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Stratton Jimmer

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Posts posted by Stratton Jimmer

  1. 18 hours ago, euan douglas said:

    My rear ones are set a couple of clicks on the soft side of neutral but, having just been out on our bumpy roads, I think that is a bit hard.  Would it be better to soften them a couple of more clicks, trial and error I suppose?  I think the front ones are about right, slightly on the soft side.

    As I said before, I wound mine right off - fully negative as shown on the shocker and then advanced it in the positive direction by only two clicks. This seems amply firm enough. The back end seems fine - not too harsh but it definitely doesn't wallow about.

  2. 1 hour ago, euan douglas said:

    fully soft and fully hard?

    I haven't tried the hardest setting but there's definitely a solid stop at the soft end. One of the pair was seized and I followed the advice given by Pete, above, to free it off. From the softest setting I wound it up as far as six clicks but then brought it back down to two. The non seized shocker was on two clicks in the positive direction hence my choice. Test driving shows this to be a very acceptable setting for the roads around Stratton St Margaret. The back end which has CD drive shafts is well planted and handling through tight bends is superb.

  3. Rich asked me to help remove the studs from his water outlet elbow (I always thought these were bolts but hey!) One had been snapped off leaving only about 8mm of stud sticking out of the block. The blow lamp was duly applied for best part of ten minutes and my best Mole grips then got a grip and did the job. He has a buyer for this car and we fitted a recon water pump, elbow and thermostat housing with bolts. If anyone is interested, he has other cars which he could be persuaded to flog including a mk2 2500pi and a 2000s. He also has many spares for the bigger saloons. Tomorrow, we will hopefully finish rebuilding the engine. It will be a minor miracle if it starts!

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  4. 15 hours ago, dougbgt6 said:

    Here is my tunnel.

    Looks like the same tunnel that I have albeit the PO had hacked it about mercilessly. I filled in "his holes" with a shaped piece of thick plastic from a five litre fence paint container (SPOT THE BODGE) and rivetted it into place as the hole was huge. I sealed that with Gorilla glue and then using contact adhesive, lined the inside of the tunnel with foil thermawrap insulation. I am now so adept at tunnel removal and refit that I can do either task in less than ten minutes. There had been a hole for gearbox filler access which was incredibly fiddly to use so I filled that too.

  5. I recently fitted CDD's CV driveshafts to my GT6 and they (so far) seem to be excellent. I'm not far from Gloucestershire albeit that it is a big county if you wanted to take a look. The CDD shafts are more expensive than the shop ones but they are extremely well made.

  6. 18 hours ago, NonMember said:

    Are you assuming the photo is of a complete tube?

    I'm not sure I understand what you are saying here. I see no tube unless you mean the female bullet. The switch shown in picture number 5 of the 6 is the same as that on both my Spit and GT6 each of which uses the lucar connectors to push into the upper holes of the switch as illustrated. It doesn't seem like a bodge as they work really well.

  7. By my reckoning, the terminals of your wire to the OD gear lever switch are wrong in every respect. They should be two small female spade type connectors which push up into the switch and connect against the internal lugs. You can check the solenoid action by turning on the ignition, putting the car in 3rd or 4th and shorting the two switch leads. With your tunnel cover off, you should easily hear the solenoid click in and out as you do so.

  8. I dislike SU carbs with a vengence yet both my cars have them. The Sixfire has HS6 while the GT6 has HS4. The GT6 runs better than the Sixfire! Once I have the right manifold, one of the cars is going to inherit the pair of CD150s I have and the sooner the better. (It will probably be the Sixfire.)

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