Stratton Jimmer
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Posts posted by Stratton Jimmer
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14 hours ago, Jim-GT6 said:
All this is telling me that I need a good torque wrench.
In case you need one, Aldi have a very good torque wrench in their special buys at the moment. They are metric only but the Haynes books (filed under F for fiction) have conversion tables. I think these wrenches are under £20 and come complete with calibration certificates. I've had mine for about two years (same brand from same supplier) and it is excellent.
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It was a classic rally some years ago. Can't recall who organised it.
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1 hour ago, Pete Lewis said:
Hemel has a magic one everyone going in all directions
Hemel's is child's play compared to Swindon's Magic Roundabout. Note that the central ring has traffic passing round it in an anti-clockwise direction!
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Years ago I briefly had a Corsair 2000E which would completely stall going up long steep hills (e.g. the climb up the A417 from Gloucester to the Air Balloon. It was a failing fuel pump that was the cause. There was no problem if I reversed up hill!
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P.S. The asking price is shown as £1250.
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Spotted this on Facebook Marketplace:
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On 15/12/2021 at 15:52, dougbgt6 said:
The odd thing is there was no rust at all, the studs had simply been put in by a gorilla.
We used to joke in the RAF that you should use "standard" torque for every nut and bolt... Tighten it till it shears then back it off two flats!
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My 2008 Jazz 1200 is still on its original battery which has never required any top up charge and has been used for jump starting other vehicles. I don't know how they do it!
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Hello Keith from someone who is also a relative newcomer to the forum. They (We) are a mad bunch but provide a lifetime's experience and know how on all matters Triumph. I wouldn't want to be without them. That's a nice looking Spit that you have and I hope you get to enjoy it as much as I enjoy my pair (A GT6 Mk3 and a Sixfire "1500").
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Here are a few shots of my GT6 and before anyone has a go, the pancake filters are not the right ones but just a spare set I had lying around which are better than nothing. Hopefully you can see the vacuum line from the AUD604F leading across to the dizzy.
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Thanks Colin and everyone else but I am now all kitted out with every bit I need apart from a new bracket to mount the throttle cable sideways on. I will make that though.
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I tell you what, fitting the inner return spring is a right pain but takes only seconds once you get it all lined up. Here's the new choke linkage fitted and the carbs remounted. The rod (after much measuring) ended up being 118.2mm in length. I cut it with my hacksaw to 119mm and filed it down from there. I still have to reconnect the other springs, the choke cable and of course the air filters. I will be realigning the throttle cable too as it is pushed sideways by the bonnet.
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My 1971 GT6 Mk3 has BL badges although I suspect that the PO added them as the bonnet is a hybrid made up of its original bulge welded into a Mk4 Spit bonnet.
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I popped down to Burlen today and they were very helpful. I now have all of the necessary parts to assemble the HS4s into a matched, fully coupled set. Usefully, they gave me a free copy of their current catalogue. Very nice people!
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That is rather a nice red though.
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That certainly looks like it Josef. The front carb mounting would require the original holes to be filled such that new threaded holes can be drilled on the 1/2 inch wider spacing. I can't see any sign of the manifold having been modified though. If it has been done, it was done by a true master craftsman! I note that the first picture is for HS6 carbs with the port opened out to 1.75 inch. My sixpot Spit has HS6 carbs but I haven't explored their mounting yet. I imagine it will be similar to that shown. The alternative is a spacer with a reducing venturi dropping down from 1.75 to 1.5 inch. That may be fitted as the carbs sit a long way from the manifold.
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If anyone needs their shop, it is open 09:00 to 17:00 Monday to Thursday and 09:00 to 16:30 on Fridays.
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30 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:
4 holes were generally HS6 a mix of 2 and 4 is to me a bit odd
I agree Pete. It seems odd to me too. The existing carbs are AUD604 (F&R) and have a spacer between the manifold and the carb fitted. It simply pushes over the stud with a gasket each side. (manifold - gasket - spacer - gasket - carb). The spacers seems to be for insulation as much as anything else. Having given some thought to the whole mess, I am going to pop down to Salisbury and visit the Burlen shop with carbs in hand to buy whatever I might need. Just need to ring them and make sure of when they are going to be open.
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I removed the SUs today and found that the manifold is not correct for the Strombergs. I'm thinking that the easiest thing to do is to bring the rear SU up to the same spec as the front one, fit new linkage for the chokes and reroute the throttle cable. The PO did mention that the SUs came from a 2000 but didn't say if the manifold was also from that car. It looks like it is. The spacing of the studs on the right hand (front) are too far apart for the Stromberg while the rear (left hand) has the two alternative stud holes which are correct for Strombergs being closer than the the SU mounting holes. Here's a picture for your delectation, note that the studs are in their SU positions:
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I have Dot 5 in both cars. It doesn't strip paint nor is it hydroscopic. I like the sound of Dot xxx though!
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I got mine some years ago from a company called The Motorist's Discount Centre. Perhaps they have a website and mail order. The tube is pretty good even today when it is about 12 years old.
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Thanks Pete, I used your high catch jar technique and it is definitely better than having the jar resting on the deck. That was a new one on me but I see the benefit. I have a bleed tube with a one way valve built in these days but used to have a slitted one which I lost somewhere down the line.
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Page 51 of the owners handbook (Publication Part No 545186 2nd edition) tells how to bleed the brakes but starts with the nearside front then the offside front then nearside rear and finally offside rear. I have always been under the impression that bleeding was done starting with the cylinder furthest from the master cylinder and working back towards it. The Haynes book also says this is correct - furthest away first. Which is correct?
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That's bad news. I was looking forward to it with a run out for the GT6 that weekend.
Drive Your Triumph Day 10 Feb
in Other Events
Posted
I took the six for a little tour of North Wiltshire taking in Royal Wootton Bassett, Lyneham and Christian Malford before dropping in to see my pal Nick at his body shop in Kingsdown where this photo was taken. Not the most glamorous of shots but the six looks good.