Stratton Jimmer
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Posts posted by Stratton Jimmer
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Do you have any Bradex? If not, I suggest you go buy a can, give each carb a couple of seconds burst and then see if it will fire up. If it does, then your problem is in the fuel / carb area. If you have had E5 or E10 fuel in the tank, it will probably have degraded over the winter and may not be too combustable.
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On 26/05/2023 at 11:33, Josef said:
Shildon for the national railway museums is worthwhile too!
We did Shildon a few years ago and were rather disappointed with it. The displays were very sterile with little or no interaction allowed with the stock. A whole line of stuff was fenced off for no apparent reason and we couldn't even see what was down there. The staff were unhelpful too. York on the other hand was rather good.
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My GT6 has a similar intermittent problem in that it can be opened from within but not from without. If it doesn't open from outside, inserting the key and "unlocking" again solves the problem. I have yet to remove the door card to investigate.
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On 11/05/2023 at 14:00, GrahamB said:
The rain was torrential.
It sure was Graham. It was only you and I that were brave enough to take our cars there. I was lucky though in that mine stayed dry inside.
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After a horrendous journey last night through torrential rain, I have decided that the inadequate wipers on the Spit need to be replaced. Can anyone recommend a seriously good pair of wipers and arms please?
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19 hours ago, Colin Lindsay said:
Lovely car!! I must admit to wanting one of those estates.
Richard Symonds has a 2.5 Estate for sale. It is in much need of restoration - not for the faint hearted! His number is 01793 874787 if anyone is feeling really foolhardy!
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Size isn't everything!
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On 07/05/2023 at 09:54, Colin Lindsay said:
I didn;t want to shorten the cables
I have often cut back cables by two or three inches, stripped them back, made up a new two or three inch section of new cable with the appropriate connector already on one end then soldered the two together. With the correct colour heat shrink over the joint they look good and I have never had one fail subsequently.
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On 07/05/2023 at 15:02, dougbgt6 said:
The Triumph Experience says the braking system on a Triumph GT6 is 1 quart or 1 litre. 1 quart = 1.27 litres, so a rough judgement, and then there's servos to consider.
If the Triumph Experience is a US site, the US pint is 16 fluid ounces i.e 4/5ths of an Imperial pint. So a US quart will be nearly half an Imperial pint less (32 Fl Oz).
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After using the Sixfire without a hitch over the last two days, I was heading for Castle Combe today where the TR Register were having a track day. Only got half a mile when a wisp of smoke appeared from under the steering column. Pulled up in my local pubs car park and had a look.
Undid the two screws to drop the shroud and reveal the wiring to the ignition switch. Something there was very hot and it turned out to be a joint made by a PRO Tap Splice Connector. Gave it a wiggle and tried to start the engine but it would no longer fire. Luckily I had my multi meter in the boot. Checked for volts at coil and found none. Checked at ignition switch and there were 12 of the little darlings. Turned the ignition off and tested for resistance. There were 39 ohms between the ignition switch terminal and the splice carrying the lead to the coil. Given the coil is a 12v one at 3 ohms. This meant that the coil was only getting 3/42ths of 12 volts. That's 1/14th or slightly less than 1 volt.
I hot wired it (don't ask!) and drove home, abandoned the Sixfire and went to Combe in the Golf. Later this afternoon I ripped out the splice connectors of which there were four and soldered up a couple of joints and choccy blocked one. All is now well again. Beware the splice connector my friends!
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Mine are plywood.
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If the diaphragm is not punctured, give it a soak in some clean petrol and re-use it. Only replace them if holed.
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It was the rotor arm that did for me a couple of weeks back when out in the GT6. Fourteen miles with no problem then suddenly no spark at the plugs.
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20 hours ago, daverclasper said:
I seem to remember, packing out between 3-5mm? from an old thread?
From a post dated 16 Feb 2022.
Posted February 17, 2022 by me in answer to the question "How thick were the gaskets?"
Only about 3mm. Self cut gaskets from sheet.
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18 hours ago, mark powell said:
Should I avoid the roadworks at Birdlip?
Went through there two weeks ago and there were no significant delays. Just asked my son who drove through there yesterday, he says it was fine.
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40 minutes ago, Puglet1 said:
I’m thinking about getting an aftermarket Hazard light setup for my Vitesse, Do you have one fitted?
I have a warning triangle.
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16 hours ago, cliff.b said:
Were you on the A419. If so, not the ideal place to break down
I was on Cirencester Way in Swindon. It is also not a good place to break down. The Green Flag Technician had just recovered another driver to the Formula ! service centre two hundred yards from where I was stranded. It was very lucky on my part that he was so close as rush hour was just kicking off.
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Out in the GT6 yesterday and having covered about 14 miles with no problem I was a mile from home when it suddenly cut out. Naturally I was in the worst possible place, on a duel carriageway with no hard shoulder and the nearest refuge being 150 yards away, up hill. Checked everything and nothing seemed obvious except no spark at the plugs. Called Green Flag and after five minutes on the phone they advised that I would get a text from their recovery agent so I sat on the armco and waited. No call but a Green Flag van pulled up with me some seven minutes later. He towed me to the safe place and we collectively examined the engine. Fault quickly diagnosed as being the rotor arm. Had a spare set of leads, spare plugs etc with me but no rotor arm. The Green Flag driver ran me home where I found a spare, returned me to the car and then followed me home, just in case. Great service from Green Flag, a very knowledgeable driver / technician who expressed his pleasure at having the chance to work on a "decent car". How's that for great service!
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15 hours ago, NonMember said:
You mean, an additional one over and above the return spring that was fitted as standard?
Yes - as shown in the two photographs in my post of a minute or so ago. One picture shows the carbs without filters and you can see the bracket to which the spring attaches. The second shows the spring in-situ with filters on.
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The choke mechanism on the GT6 (HS4) has a return spring which I'm guessing the PO fitted. I took it off after reconditioning the carbs but put it back on as I was having the same issues as described. If needed, I will dig the car out of hibernation and take a photo. Let me know...
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You are not alone with this problem. My Mk3 GT6 has HS4 SU carbs and plays up just the same. Quick squirt of Bradex and she fires up a treat and does so for the rest of the day with no problems. Two days later, she won't start without a squirt of Bradex. I rebuilt the carbs which, when I bought the car only had a choke on the front carb but now has it on both. It made no difference. One thing is that once she has fired up, opening the choke does what it should. I use E5 Super and the car runs well on it.
The comments about the coil are valid - the six volt coil gets a twelve volt feed from the solenoid when starting. Please check that that is the case. It wasn't with my car but is now. It does start better than it did although, as I say, a shot of Bradex is still required but less than previously.
My Spitfire six, has had HS6 SU previously and had no starting problems and since swapping over to a pair of CD150SE and following Pete's guidance as above, has no problems. Definitely lock off the temperature compensators!
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21 hours ago, Mark B said:
Gunson Colourtune, carb balancer, and strobe,
Exactly what I have.
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Out in the Sixfire the other week I rounded a tight left hander and a road speed related ticking noise started from the nearside rear. Got home and removed the back wheels to inspect the drive train. Nothing untoward found so I scratched my head and was casually rotating the offside brake drum when I heard a faint tick, tick. Close examination revealed the nearside exhaust hanger hook had rusted through and broken away from its U bolt. The hanger was dangling adjacent to the prop shaft flange and making contact with the securing bolts as they rotated.
Slackened off the U bolt and undid the chassis mounting bolt to remove the hanger which I then repaired by drilling out the rivets which held the broken metal hook. I made a new hook out of a bit of stainless (ex-washing machine back cover) I had lying around and secured that to the strap with a pair of M8 Allen head bolts. Put it all back together and the back end is once more as quiet as a mouse. It sometimes pays to investigate thoroughly and there's a lot of pleasure in mending something yourself.
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Starting
in Fuel System
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My Mk3 has a Triumph Tune engine but has been fitted with a pair of HS4 SU carbs. First start of any day involves around five or six, three second bursts on the starter and full choke. Thereafter it starts first time every time without the choke.