Jump to content

Spitjames

TSSC Member
  • Posts

    8
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Spitjames

Profile Information

  • Location
    Hampshire
  • Cars Owned
    Spitfire 1500

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

Spitjames's Achievements

Newbie

Newbie (1/14)

0

Reputation

  1. Not sure if this is the right subforum, but here goes anyway. I bought an armest from a breaker, which I will be refoaming and recovering along with my seats. The breaker sent me the tunnel cover as well, which I wasn't expecting and do not need. It's a little rusty and bent in one spot, but I'm sure it can be restored to a perfectly servicable condition. The vinyl could probably be re-coloured and reused as there are no tears in any visible areas. Free to a good home. Cheers James
  2. Thanks Graham. Your metalworking skills are clearly steets ahead of mine ! The club shop is still doing the reconditioning service for 65 pounds. Thanks for the tip, I'll go down that route
  3. IGNORE THIS - Rimmers has the manifold with the T section. And a snip at £280 😭 😭 😭 😭 😭 Can anyone shed some light on a slight problem I have with rust on the inlet manifold assembly? The inlet manifold has rust on the left hand side, where the manifold connects to the coolant pipes. I can see twin carb inlet manifolds with single connections either side (e.g. https://www.canleyclassics.com/?catalogue=triumph-spitfire-mkiv/1500&diagram=triumph-spitfire-mkiv/1500-inlet-manifold-twin-carbs). However, mine has a peculiar T-junction with the upper part going to the heater valve and the lower part going back into the block. Actually, the upper part is now rusted off. Has anyone come across one of these manifolds with a T junction before? I guess my options are to replace like-for-like if I can find one OR get a new T-junction made up and welded on OR replace with a standard manifold and just connect it to the block (seal up the path to the heater valve which I never use anyway) Any thoughts? James.
  4. Great to hear someone on the same journey as me. Good luck with the bleeding bleeding tomorrow
  5. This is all really useful info - I definitely won't be cutting it off then! When I got the car last year, both the hood (torn) and frame (rusted) were in the boot so I didn't have anything in situ to reference off. The collective wisdom on here has been invaluable.
  6. Hi everyone I am fitting an original spec pvc hood (part XKCIZB from Rimmer Bros) to my 78 spitfire 1500. I am following the directions they supply (Link to pdf), but nowhere is there a reference to flaps that sit around the top of the b pillar. I don't know what to do with them and there doesn't seem to be an obvious place for them to go. I don't even know what their function could be? Draught exclusion? drainage channel? Has any one got any insight? Otherwise the most likely result is that I'll leave them there until they annoy me and then I'll cut them off. Cheers all James
  7. I've got my original spec one for my 1500 from Rimmers when they had a 20% off sale. It arrived in a couple of days and I'm fitting it this weekend. The body poppers came in a bag so you can align them to the corresponding popper positions on your car. The only poppers fitted are the ones that pop onto the second bow of the frame (the rearmost bow)
×
×
  • Create New...