Sandy Gibson

You need a micrometer or a decent digital vernier to measure the amount of play accurately. Also, if you get a selection thrust bearings, you can use one size on one side of the journal and another size on the other to obtain the best result. Make sure to install them with the bearing surface in contact with the revolving crank!

I’ve used Sellock pins and they work fine. Did it as a temporary fix years ago and they are still there. They have the added advantage that you can pack grease down the hole in the middle!

I just fitted a new rad and took the car out for a spin. Too late I noticed a dimple had appeared on the bonnet. Realised that the screw on the top radiator hose clip had been in contact with the underside of the bonnet and caused the damage (see pics). It never occurred to me that this clip was as close to the bonnet as that so be aware! Turn the clip with the screw side down! Maybe see if I can also adjust bonnet hinge to increase clearance.

I got a Sealy PH5. It’s not foldable but the vertical and horizontal bits unbolt easily and quickly so it’s easy to stow away. Only issue is it is a couple of inches short of ideal reach. Vertical post touches the front cross member on my Mk 3 so that when the engine/ box starts to lift, they swing forward a bit. Not a big issue but annoying.

Already started!

Just that there was a very low point between 5 and 6 push rods and the adjacent cooling ports.

.012” lighter and looking good! Many thanks to everyone who read/posted opinions. Forums like this keep amateurs like me on the right road!

Thanks John That’s exactly what I intend to do and pressure test before it goes back into the car. Hopefully a head skim and a new Payen gasket will sort it. Toying with the idea of a smear of Hyolomar blue round the block coolant ports when I rebuild. Any thoughts on that? Sandy

Finally traced the leak. Lots of compressed air and soapy water! Head back on and water pump etc sealed off 20 psi in the coolant system and air leaking mainly through the head side of the gasket to push rod 4/5 port. Took the head off again, sealed round the water channels on the head side of the gasket, put head on and re-pressurised. Very slight leak from under the gasket (soapy water down push rod port!) Conclusion - both head and block need refaced. Does that seem reasonable?

Bit of Vaseline on the top of the block then some soft plastic sheet on top of that then replaced the head and torqued it up lightly. Connected air line through the drain valve.

Just an update on progress! Sealed up all the water channels and did a compressed air pressure test on the block. Went to 20psi and no drop in pressure after an hour. Still doesn’t tell me what’s wrong but it eliminates a few possibilities such as accidentally drilling into water jacket etc.

Studs all ok and the right way in with plenty thread. New flanged nuts used. I am sure the gasket has not failed between the coolant ports and the combustion chambers but possibly between the coolant and push rod ports. This would fit with the symptoms I had. i.e water getting into the sump but no significant air coming up through the rad header. Thanks

Used a Payen gasket without any sealant. Most advice seems to say that is correct. Torqued to 45 ft/lb and wrench checked against another one so am sure it was done correctly.

As it came back from the shop!

John No the block face is original Thanks Sandy

The rings are very slightly raised. Getting 001 to 002 above the gasket face. Overall ring thickness .040 to .042. Broadly about 2 to 3 thou thicker than the old Payen that came of the engine before the rebuild. Bear in mind the engine only ran for about 5 minutes before I discovered the mayo and obviously the head was never re-torqued so I would have expected the gasket to look pretty new. Anyway, the project continues!! Sandy

Pete I would like to think you are correct, but I can’t see how that could be the case. Studs were the correct way in, I used new flanged nuts and I checked the torque wrench against another one just to make sure. Could it have been a faulty gasket or something else I may or may not have done? I’m sure you’ve forgotten more about these engines than I’ll ever know! so all help hugely appreciated Sandy

John Rope trick marks!! Block was rebored to .040” which I know is getting close to limit but there was certainly not visual evidence of problems. Do you thing a compressed air test on the block would show up problems? Obviously the block would be cold and I appreciate that wouldn’t help. Sandy

Getting about 041” on the rings and 038” round the outside. About 003” more compared with another used Payen I had. Dont know what a new one would measure. Gasket definitely didn’t have the tab on the end and the head studs were all in the correct way up. I tend to agree with Pete that it’s unlikely I could have lost a significant amount of water from a gasket leak in 5 minutes running but this is new territory for me, any help appreciated! Thinking of trying a leak test on the block. If I seal the top water channels with some plastic / silicone then lightly torque the head back. Then compressed air through the bleed valve. Given that I seem to have a gusher ( good description Pete) do we think that might show up the source?

This was how the gasket looked when I lifted the head.

Pete. Totally agree with you. Gasket was the correct Payen (non recessed) and torqued up correctly. Don’t think the problem is a cracked block as the original oil was in the sump when I bought the engine and it was black. Really stumped with this one and now looking at the head. I also have another option to fit another known good head and see what happens. If I get the same problem, at least I’ll know the issue is somewhere in the bottom end. Sandy

I bought the engine to rebuild as a spare. PO advised it had broken rings and this proved correct (badly ridged cylinders) I had block rebored and fitted the original head after cleaning it and reseating valves etc. Faces looked fine and could not measure any distortion with feeler and straight edge. After 5 minutes running, got a sump full of mayo. Have check all the bottom end and can’t find any issues so now I’m looking at the head. That’s the background and where I am now. Sandy

Thanks for that folks. I have a known good spare head I can swap over if it all goes pear shaped so I’ll probably go for the minimum the shop suggests and keep my fingers crossed!

I appreciate that the head castings will all be individual, but if the shop were to suggest .040” would that be a safe punt? Don’t want to risk creating more problems than I’m trying to solve!

I am going to get my head skimmed following blown gasket issues. It is casting no. 515972 with a head depth of 2.96” which I believe is standard and should be giving 9:1 ratio. My question is how much to get skimmed? All I want is a flat surface but should I suggest .040” and would that still be within sensible limits? Bit in the dark on this one. Any suggestions would be most helpful. Thanks