Alan C

Doug Thanks for the link. That looks like just the job. I can reshape the tool from my existing coat hanger to suit. I even have a spare wooden handle in my toolbox to finish it off. I think I'll try a comparison test- one half of the strip with the coax and coat hanger and the other half with just the tool. Cheers Alan

Doug First of all apologies once again for misspelling your name- bloody predictor text!! Yes I'm assuming by special tool you mean the modified coat hanger. I'd got to the point of having stuffed the coax cable into the windscreen seal's groove and forcing out the lip. My first attempt with the coat hanger tool almost worked but I ran out of time. I then hit another problem when SWMBO told me that she had binned all our wire coat hangers some time ago. So I'm now in the hunt for another one to allow the construction of the mk2 version of the special tool. I'll post some photos on the Forum if I finally get the stainless strip fitted. But all this will have to wait until next week when I will be back from my ski trip to France. Cheers Alan

Doig I bought a sixteen way fuse box from one of the online auto electric wholesaler's. It uses the modern double spade type fuses which are far more reliable and easy to replace. I'm going to locate it on the bulkhead platform to the right of the battery box. I'm going to split the existing eight circuits so that each has one dedicated fuse. In addition I have five other fuses inconveniently scattered behind the dashboard which I'll also transfer to the new fuse box. I'm also going to use the remaining three fuses to give the horns windscreen wipers and overdrive a dedicated feed. I'm lucky to have an old TR5 loom that I've stripped to get the right gauge and colour coded wire. I'll post some photos once I've finished.. This could take a wee while since I'm on holiday and when I get back I've to finish my ongoing struggle to refit the windscreen stainless surround. Wish me luck-I'm going to need it. Cheers Alan

Hi Everyone I've decided to repaint the battery clamp bar as part of my GT6 fuse box upgrade. It's currently satin black and I was wondering if this is the correct colour? I seem to remember it was silver in the dim & distant past. Cheers Alan

Bob I have to disagree with the other members. I've had an external rocker feed fitted to my GT6's 2.5l six pot for more than 20 years and experienced no problems. In fact after 25k miles the oil pressure sits at 60+psi at 2000rpm. I have not suffered any oil loss through the head either. What it does show is the rocker shaft being well oiled (no pun intended) and consequently less prone to premature wear. Althought the Triumph engines are well engineered they do have some short comings- one being rather less than optimal oil pressure in the rocker shaft. But at the end of the day each to his own. Cheers Alan

Doug Sorry about that. Sausage fingers at work again. That pesky "I" key is too damn close to the "U" key on my laptop.

Doig Thanks for the link. I've got a small repair to do on the lower driver's side frame and then I'll be tackling the stainless trim. I'll let you know how it goes. Cheers Alan

Hi Everyone I'm in the process of replacing my rather battered and scored windscreen stainless trim and wondered if there was a trick to refitting it. It looks like a complete b*****r of a job. The workshop manual doesn't even mention it in it's windscreen removal/refitting procedure. All advice gratefully received. Cheers Alan

HenrySpit I fitted the ram struts to my GT6MK3 a couple of years back and would thoroughly recommend them for the following reasons:- The bonnet opens even further with the rams than with the original stay. The bonnet opens evenly without the previously mentioned twisting The stay rattle when the bonnet is closed is eliminated I also have HS6 SUs with adaptor plates and K&N pancake air filters fitted and haven't experienced any fouling issues, so with a bit of luck neither will you. Cheers Alan

Hi Everyone I was doing my regular trawl of Fleabay and came across this ad:- http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GT6-MK3-/221649113636?pt=Automobiles_UK&hash=item339b511224 £3K for a resto project? I love the bit in the attached blurb about an easy restoration with a seized engine to boot. It only seemed like a couple of years ago that this price would fetch a good, solid GT6. Have people just got greedy or are there people out there prepared to pay this? Happy New Year Alan

Well I'm back home now and as promised here's a few images of my setup:- This shows the cross brace which allows the mounting of the electric radiator fan-an ex Vauxhall item. The sensor on the top of the radiator switches the fan from low to high speed-which in reality is never required in normal driving, even in town traffic. The cross brace bolts to a vertical strut that's attached to the chassis through the holes originally meant for the side screens-long since removed. The other end of this strut secures to the top of the oil cooler. Immediately behind the radiator you can see the idler wheel I fitted in place of the water pump. This allowed me to retain the original fan belt. This shows the bottom bracket I made that fits on the radiator mount. Here you can see the oil cooler thermostat housing in the middle of the picture. It was mounted on the suspension turret bracket originally meant for the side screens. This shows the reverse strut that fits to the top of the oil cooler and clamps around the main chassis leg at the other end. That's the sensor wire for the low speed fan control running through insulated copper pipe and clamped to the reverse strut. This shows the platform for the electric water pump temperature controller, electric water pump(behind) and the pressurised overflow bottle. Immediately to the right of the bottle is the ballast resistor for the low speed fan circuit. I replaced the mechanical water pump many years ago and have no regrets. However you do have to get used to the temp gauge initially flicking back and forward as the pump cuts in and out during warmup. I run the cooling system without a thermostat and overall the set-up is far superior to the original mechanically driven one. I would strongly recommend mounting the oil cooler to the side of the radiator for the following reasons:- This location is less prone to damage from flying objects or speed bumps. It receives a much improved air flow-no chassis rail blocking off part of the matrix. Mounting the oil cooler behind the front chassis rail means that hot air is being passed through part of the radiator behind. I hope this helps. Cheers Alan

Dave I've mounted my oil cooler vertically on the RHS of the radiator. I made up a bracket that bolted onto the foot of the radiator and a frame that secured the top of the oil cooler. The frame also includes a diagonal brace that provides two of the three mounting points for the electric fan. When I get back home I'll post a photo of the setup. Cheers Alan

John Yes that's exactly what I was thinking about and a good point about the connectors as well. Unbelievably, I've just realised that I need to fit one to my S1 E-Type Roadster as well. It has the SU pump submerged in the fuel tank itself. I can't believe that I hadn't noticed this before. Cheers Alan

During the late 80's I fitted an old SU electric pump to my GT6 when it was first running with a 2.5L saloon engine. This was supposed to overcome what appeared to be a fuel starvation problem above 3000rpm. It did appear to cure this but in the end the real culprit turned out to be a very badly profiled fast road cam. This was supplied by a very well known specialist, so it just goes to show that crap after market parts are nothing new. I mounted the pump on the engine bulkhead and yes it did sound like a manic woodpecker trying to escape. I had no over-pressurisation problems but in hindsight I think this was down to the fact that the pump was designed to be mounted next to the fuel tank not the engine! I reverted back to a mechanical pump when I carried out my final engine transplant in 1993, along with a properly profiled fast road cam. This served me faithfully for the next 15 years until the pump decided to shed one of it's internal pistons. This resulted in my one and only trailer home journey in 28years of ownership. On balance the mechanical pump is probably the better route to go. Your car was designed for this for good reason and in the end despite my experience, is the more reliable set-up. One final point about using an electric pump-it should be fitted with an inertia safety switch. This would prevent petrol being sprayed everywhere if you suffered a ruptured fuel line In an accident. I never considered this when I had one fitted but then I never had an accident. Cheers Alan

Hi everyone. I've just joined the new Forum. I didn't realise it was up and running before now. I changed the 150CD Strombergs in my GT6 Mk3 for a pair of HS6 SUs many years back during an engine transplant/upgrade. I would definitely cast a vote in favour of the SU's any day of the week. I had numerous occasions where the Strombergs suffered split diaphragms usually when I was trying to get to my work! SUs are far more robust and have greater tuning potential due to the much greater range of needles available. This is especially useful, if like me you have them mated to a tuned 2.5l six. The only probems I had was altering the throttle linkage and building heatshields for the GT6 inlet manifold. I also think the SUs look much better than the Strombergs, although this is just a bonus and not a reason for choosing them. Cheers Alan